CO 

CO 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


ROSES    AND    ROSE    GROWING 


I  i 

CD 


ROSES 


AND 


ROSE   GROWING 


BY 

ROSE    G.    KINGSLEY 

M 

OFFIC1ER  DE  I/INSTRUCTION  PUBLIQUE 
AUTHOR  OF  "EVERSLEY  GARDENS,"  ETC.,  ETC. 


WITH   A   CHAPTER   ON  "HOW  TO    GROW  ROSES   FOR 

EXHIBITION,"   BY   THE   REV.  F.   PAGE-ROBERTS, 

VICE-PRESIDENT   NATIONAL  ROSE 

SOCIETY,    F.R.H.S. 


WITH    TWENTY-EIGHT  FULL-PAGE    COLOURED,   AND    NINE 
HALF-TONE.   ILLUSTRATIONS   AND   DIAGRAMS 


WHITTAKER   &   CO. 

2  WHITE  HART  STREET,  PATERNOSTER  SQUARE,  LONDON,  E.G. 
AND    64-66   FIFTH  AVENUE,    NEW   YORK 


RICHARD  CLAY  &  SONS,  LIMITED, 

BREAD  STREET  HILL,  B.C.,  AND 

BUNQAY,  SUFFOLK. 


PREFACE 

SOME  time  ago  it  was  suggested,  by  certain  rose- 
lovers  and  enthusiasts,  that  the  practical  experience 
of  an  amateur,  brought  up  from  childhood  to  love  and 
cultivate  roses,  might  be  of  use  to  other  owners  of 
small  gardens,  who,  like  herself,  tend  their  roses 
themselves.  And  in  the  hope  that  this  might  be 
the  case,  I  undertook  to  write  this  little  book.  My 
text-book  in  this  labour  of  love  has  been  an  old  copy, 
which  belonged  to  my  father  when  he  settled  at 
Eversley  in  1844,  of  The  Rose  Amateur's  Guide, 
by  that  veteran  rose-grower,  the  late  Thomas  Kivers. 
I  am  also  greatly  indebted  to  the  Kev.  J.  H.  Pember- 
ton's  learned  and  admirable  work,  Roses,  their 
History,  Development,  and  Cultivation,  published 
early  this  year;  and  to  the  various  publications  of 
the  National  Eose  Society. 

As  one  branch,  however,  of  the  cultivation  of  roses 
is  a  sealed  book  to  me,  for  I  am  only  an  amateur  who 
does  not  exhibit,  I  felt  that  no  work  on  rose-growing 
would  be  complete  without  a  chapter  which  should 
help  those  who  wish  to  do  so.  And  here  I  was  indeed 
fortunate  in  obtaining  the  help  of  so  distinguished  an 
authority  as  my  friend  and  neighbour,  Kev.  F.  Page- 
Eoberts,  Vice-President  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 
My  grateful  thanks  are  due  to  him  for  the  delightful 
chapter,  the  last  in  the  book,  on  "How  to  grow 
Roses  for  Exhibition."  And  I  feel  that  to  have  his 


vi  PEEFACE 

name  on  the  title-page  is  an  honour  of  which  I  cannot 
be  too  proud. 

As  to  the  illustrations,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  they  are  not  intended  to  represent  exhibition 
roses,  but  merely  ordinary  blooms,  typical  of  the 
various  kinds  of  garden  roses.  The  colour  prints 
have  been  admirably  carried  out  by  Messrs.  Swain 
and  Son  of  Barnet,  by  their  new  process  of  colour- 
printing.  My  friend,  Miss  Emily  Jubb,  has  sup- 
plied several  of  the  original  photographs  of  roses 
and  of  pruning,  from  specimens  in  my  own  garden ; 
and  to  her  I  offer  my  warm  thanks.  Thanks  are  also 
due  to  Mr.  Wm.  Paul  of  Waltham  Cross  nurseries, 
and  to  Mr.  Henry  Nicholson  of  New  Barnet,  for 
their  kindness  in  furnishing  Messrs.  Swain  and  Son 
with  all  the  other  specimen  flowers  for  the  plates. 
In  fact,  without  Mr.  Nicholson's  ready  help  in 
supplying  a  large  proportion  of  the  subjects  from 
his  own  garden,  it  would  have  been  difficult  to 
carry  out  the  scheme  of  illustration. 

If  this  humble  record  of  my  own  practical  experi- 
ence, its  failures,  and  its  successes,  is  the  means  of 
encouraging  others  in  the  cultivation  of  roses,  I  can 
only  wish  them  the  interest,  delight,  and  healthful 
relaxation  of  tired  body  and  mind,  which  this  pursuit 
has  afforded  me  for  many  a  long  year. 

EOSE    G.    KlNGSLEY 

Keys,  Eversley, 
Hants, 

Nov.  6,  1908. 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

I.  MAKING   AND    PLANTING   A   ROSE   GARDEN  .  ,1 

II.  PRUNING   AND   PROPAGATING     .                 .  .  ,15 

III.  SUMMER-FLOWERING   ROSES — OLD   AND   NEW  .  .         37 

IV.  CLIMBING   ROSES SUMMER    FLOWERING  .  .52 

V.  CLIMBING   ROSES — AUTUMN   FLOWERING  .  .68 

VI.  TEA   ROSES         .                 .  '               .                 .  .  .         80 

VII.  HYBRID   TEA   ROSES        .                  .                 .  ..  .93 

VIII.  HYBRID   PERPETUALS     .                 .                 .  .  .111 

IX.  BOURBON,    CHINA,   AND   POLYANTHA   ROSES  .  .123 

X.  ROSE   PESTS      lA                 .                 *                 .  .  .       136 

XI.  HOW   TO   GROW   ROSES   FOR   EXHIBITION  .  .151 

INDEX  161 


vii 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

To  f»ft  pagt 

ROSE   REQUIRING   PRUNING       .                  .                 .  .  .18 

RUGOSA — ROSA  ALBA                   ."             .                 .  .  .37 

PROVENCE — CABBAGE                   .                 .                 .  .  .         38 

MOSS — COMMON              .                 ,                 .                  .  .  .39 

GALLIC  A — RED  DAMASK    (THE   APOTHECARY'S   ROSE)  .  .         40 

CLIMBING   DAMASK — MRS.  O.  G.  ORPEN                  .  .  .41 

AUSTRIAN    BRIAR AUSTRIAN    COPPER                    .  .  .          42 

LORD    PENZANCE   HYBRID   SWEET   BRIAR — JEANNIE   DEANS  .         44 

SCOTCH   BRIAR STAN  WELL   PERPETUAL   (2  plates)  .  .         45 

RUGOSA CONRAD    FERDINAND    MEYER                   .  .  .46 

AYRSHIRE — RUGA        ,                 .                 .                 »  .  .52 

EVERGREEN F^LICITE    ET    PERPETUE                  '•  .  .  .          53 

CLIMBING    POLYANTHA BLUSH    RAMBLER  (2  plates)  .  .58 

WICHURAIANA — DOROTHY  PERKINS        .                 .  .  .61 

,,                   JERSEY    BEAUTY             .                 .  .  .62 

NOISETTE — WILLIAM   ALLEN    RICHARDSON            .  .  .71 

TEA WHITE    MAM  AN    COCHET                   .                  .  .  .92 

HYBRID    TEA BARDOU  JOB      .                  .                  .  .  94 

ix 


EOSES  AND  KOSE  GROWING 

CHAPTER  I 

MAKING   AND   PLANTING   A   ROSE   GARDEN 

HAPPY  is  the  rosarian  who  is  free  to  choose  the 
spot  in  which  to  make  his  rose  garden — to  choose  the 
ideal  position,  with  ideal  soil,  in  an  ideal  climate. 
Such  fortuitous  combinations  are  possible.  But 
though  they  do  not  fall  to  the  lot  of  one  rose-lover 
in  a  hundred,  it  is  still  easy  to  find  a  bit  of  ground 
in  which  roses  will  flourish;  for,  with  proper  care, 
there  are  few  localities — in  England  at  all  events — 
where  they  cannot  be  made  to  grow.  At  the  same 
time,  in  choosing  the  position  of  our  rose  garden, 
certain  dangers  must  be  guarded  against,  as  far  as 
possible. 

Position. — First  of  all  I  would  say,  avoid  a 
draughty  spot ;  for  nothing  is  so  bad  for  roses  as  a 
draught.  Even  an  exposed  garden,  if  it  is  quite  flat 
and  open,  is  preferable  to  a  draughty  one,  however 
picturesquely  shaded  it  may  be.  The  perfect  position 
should  be  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east :  but  not 
closely  surrounded  by  trees.  Eor  roses  are  lovers  of 


2  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

light  and  sun  ;  and  while  they  enjoy  a  little  shade 
for  a  few  hours  in  the  day,  they  will  not  flourish  in 
stuffy,  closely  shadowed  places,  where  they  cannot 
get  enough  light  and  air. 

Shelter. — If  some  sort  of  shelter  is  absolutely 
imperative,  there  are  various  ways  of  producing  it 
without  putting  up  an  unsightly  paling,  or  building 
a  costly  wall  in  the  garden.  One  of  the  best  is  a  low 
hedge  kept  closely  clipped,  of  yew,  holly,  privet,  or 
beech — the  first  is,  of  course,  slow  in  growth.  Care, 
however,  must  be  taken  to  plant  the  hedge  at  such  a 
distance  from  the  rose  beds  that  its  roots  shall  not 
suck  all  the  nourishment  from  them.  But  nothing  is 
more  charming  or  suitable  than  to  give  the  choice  and 
more  tender  roses  a  shelter  of  roses — planting  the 
strong-growing  Wichuraianas,  Ramblers  and  other 
vigorous  kinds  along  a  screen  of  wooden  lattice-work. 
This  not  only  makes  a  quite  sufficient  break  to  the 
wind,  but  forms  a  delightful  background  to  the  beds 
of  dwarf  roses. 

If  possible,  the  ground  should  slope  very  gently  to 
south  and  west.  Flat  ground  is  preferable  to  any 
slope  steeper  than  one  in  fifty.  But  some  slight  fall 
is  extremely  advantageous,  as  it  helps  drainage. 

Drainage. — This  is  another  most  important  point 
to  be  considered.  For  whether  the  soil  be  light  or 
heavy,  it  is  absolutely  essential  that  a  rose  garden 
should  be  well  drained  ;  as  roses  so  deeply  resent 
wet  about  the  roots,  that  they  promptly  show  their 


PLANTING  A   EOSE   GARDEN  3 

displeasure  by  dying.  If,  therefore,  on  low-lying  land 
— and  unfortunately  we  cannot  always  avoid  this — 
there  is  any  suspicion  of  water  within  three  feet  of 
the  surface,  broken  crocks,  clinkers,  wood  ashes,  and 
such- like  materials,  must  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of 
the  beds  to  keep  the  subsoil  free  in  times  of  heavy 
rain  and  floods  ;  and  a  good  drain  of  ordinary  field 
pipes  must  be  run  from  the  beds  into  the  nearest 
ditch.  For  let  it  be  remembered  that  if  we  intend  to 
grow  good  roses,  we  must  be  prepared  to  do  our  very 
best  for  them,  and  to  spend  a  little  time,  a  little 
money,  and  a  good  deal  of  thought,  on  preparing  the 
ground  they  are  to  grow  in,  before  we  dream  of 
planting  them.  Far  better  to  begin  our  garden  with 
a  dozen  roses  well  planted  in  properly  prepared 
ground,  than  with  a  hundred  put  in  anywhere 
and  anyhow. 

This  brings  us  to  the  next  point — 

The  Soil, — which  is  far  more  important  than  even 
the  position  of  our  garden.  If  we  are  so  lucky  as 
to  be  able  to  choose  the  soil  as  well  as  the  position, 
then  let  us  choose  a  rich  brown  loam ;  for  that  is 
the  soil  roses  revel  in  and  need  but  little  else  to 
nourish  them.  Such  a  soil  as  this  we  find  in  the 
famous  rose-gardens  of  Essex,  Hertfordshire,  Oxford- 
shire, and  Kent.  I  have  even  seen  roses  growing 
superbly,  without  manure  of  any  kind,  in  an  open 
field  of  this  rich  loam  on  one  of  the  most  exposed 
ridges  of  Warwickshire.  But  if  such  natural  soil 


4  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

cannot  be  had,  we  must  make  it,  as  I  know  to  my 
cost;  for  in  my  own  garden  the  ground  is  so  poor 
that  every  rose-bed  has  to  be  made  three  feet  deep. 
And  nothing  in  this  case  produces  such  excellent 
results  as  the  top  spit  of  an  old  pasture.  To  get 
this,  the  turf  should  be  pared  off  carefully,  and 
then  the  first  nine  inches  of  brown  fibrous  loam 
beneath  taken  out.  If  the  space  thus  left  is  filled  up 
with  other  common  soil,  the  turf  can  be  relaid,  and 
no  harm  is  done  to  the  meadow.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  turf  is  not  needed  in  the  same  spot,  it  may 
be  stacked  in  a  heap — grass  downward — and  kept  for 
a  couple  of  years  til]  it  has  rotted  down  completely ; 
when,  mixed  with  manure,  it  makes  perfect  potting 
soil,  or  the  finest  possible  dressing  for  our  rose  beds. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  towns  and  villages,  where 
building  is  going  on,  this  turfy  loam  is  often  to  be 
had  when  new  roads  are  cut  out  and  houses  run  up. 
And  it  is  well  worth  the  rosarian's  while  to  be  on  the 
watch  for  such  opportunities,  and  secure  a  few  loads 
of  the  top  spit  from  the  builder,  to  stack  in  the  garden 
against  the  time  it  is  needed. 

Having  provided  the  requisite  soil,  we  are  now 
ready  to  begin  work  by  making  the  beds.  The 
general  arrangement  of  the  garden,  the  shape  and  size 
of  the  beds  has  to  be  determined.  And  here,  of  course, 
the  rosarian  must  be  guided  by  his  own  taste.  A  few 
hints,  however,  from  personal  experience  may  be  help- 
ful. As  to  shape,  that  is  purely  a  matter  of  taste. 


PLANTING  A  ROSE   GARDEN  5 

But  whether  they  be  round  or  square,  straight  or 
curved,  in  size  they  should  not  be  too  large  or  too 
wide  to  allow  of  our  getting  easily  at  their  precious 
contents.  For  at  all  times  of  the  year  roses  need 
constant  and  watchful  care  ;  and  the  amateur — especi- 
ally if  a  woman,  hampered  with  tiresome  petticoats — 
must  have  space  in  which  to  move,  in  order  to  pick 
off  caterpillars,  cut  the  flowers  whether  alive  or  dead, 
and  see  to  all  the  various  needs  of  the  plants,  such  as 
weeding,  watering,  manuring  and  pruning.  As  to 
width,  I  find  five  feet  ample  in  a  small  garden;  as 
that  allows  of  three  rows  of  dwarf  plants  eighteen 
inches  to  two  feet  apart;  and  enables  me  to  reach 
those  in  the  centre  row  without  injuring  the  others. 

Making  the  Beds. — Let  us  therefore  suppose  we 
are  about  to  make  a  straight  bed  five  'feet  wide  and 
twelve  long,  in  hitherto  unbroken  ground,  to  contain 
seventeen  roses.  The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  pare  off 
the  turf.  The  top  spit  of  some  eight  or  nine  inches 
below  it,  is  sure  to  be  fairly  good  soil  from  the  fibrous 
roots  of  the  grass  and  clover.  We  therefore  dig  it  off 
a  space  three  feet  long  and  the  whole  width  of  the 
bed,  and  wheel  it  down  to  the  further  end.  The 
second  spit  in  such  land  as  my  own  garden  is  much 
poorer,  with  a  good  deal  of  sandy  marl  in  it.  This 
is  taken  right  out  and  heaped  at  the  side  of  the  bed, 
to  be  taken  away  later  on.  The  third  spit,  which 
is  now  exposed,  is  a  cold,  sandy  marl,  with  many 
stones. 


6  ROSES   AND   ROSE  GROWING 

We  have  therefore  a  hole  five  feet  wide,  a  yard  in 
length,  and  two  feet  deep.  If  the  marl  at  the  bottom 
does  not  show  any  sign  of  water,  it  may  be  broken  up 
with  the  fork,  mixing  in  a  little  manure  at  the  same 
time,  and  we  can  leave  it  as  it  is.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  it  is  full  of  water,  some  of  it  must  be  carted 
away,  and  crocks,  stones,  clinkers,  wood  ashes,  and 
even  bits  of  turf,  grass  downwards,  put  in  below  to 
drain  it,  as  I  have  already  said. 

Bastard  Trenching.— We  then  begin  the  regular 
process  of  bastard  trenching,  digging  up  the  fourth 
foot  of  top  soil,  throwing  it  into  the  hole,  mixing  it 
with  the  broken  marl  and  manure  at  the  bottom, 
and  then  removing  the  second  spit  as  directed 
above.  This  is  done  along  the  whole  bed  ;  and  at 
the  end  we  use  some  of  the  earth  we  wheeled  down 
at  the  beginning,  to  fill  the  hole  on  the  marl  at  the 
bottom. 

We  thus  have  a  bed  five  feet  by  twelve,  but  some 
fifteen  inches  below  the  ground.  Over  the  surface  of 
this  bed  we  now  spread  a  coating  of  good  rotten 
manure ;  if  we  can  get  it  from  a  cow  yard  so  much 
the  better,  as  cow  manure  is  cooler  than  horse 
droppings  to  the  roots  of  the  roses.  This  must  be 
thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  soil  already  dug  in, 
with  a  fork,  not  a  spade,  as  our  object  is  to  keep  the 
earth  as  friable  as  we  can.  The  bed  is  then  filled  up 
with  nothing  but  the  turfy  loam  mixed  with  some  of 
the  best  of  the  surface  soil,  till  it  rises  a  little  above 


PLANTING  A  EOSE  GAEDEN  7 

the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground;  for  it  will  be 
sure  to  sink. 

But  let  no  one  imagine  that  this  bed  is  ready  for 
planting.  It  must  be  left  for  at  least  a  fortnight  (a 
month  is  better)  to  settle,  and  to  mellow  and  sweeten ; 
while  its  surface  must  be  left  quite  rough  to  aid  the 
process.  If  there  is  a  frost  during  this  settling,  that 
will  do  it  the  greatest  possible  good. 

Let  the  amateur  avoid  all  artificial  manures  at  first 
save  a  dusting  of  basic  slag  (see  Chap.  XI) ;  for  there 
is  no  need  whatever  in  preparing  a  new  rose  bed  to 
use  any  manure  except  sweet  stable  and  cow  manure. 
This  contains  all  the  qualities  needful  for  newly- 
planted  roses.  It  should,  however,  be  so  worked  into 
the  soil  as  not  to  come  into  actual  contact  with  their 
roots,  but  to  lie  some  two  or  three  inches  below  them. 

I  have,  of  course,  chosen  an  extreme  case  here. 
Better  ground  only  needs  to  be  thoroughly  dug  two 
spits  deep,  with  manure  and  fibrous  loam  worked  in. 
But,  even  so,  I  always  think  it  is  advantageous  to 
break  the  ground  at  the  bottom  with  a  fork. 

PLANTING. 

When  the  beds  are  thoroughly  prepared  and  settled, 
we  may  begin  to  think  about  planting  them. 

The  ideal  time  for  this  operation  is  in  November 
and  December.  For  the  plants,  lifted  as  soon  as  they 
have  done  flowering,  and  put  in  their  new  quarters 
with  as  little  delay  as  possible,  have  time  to  settle 


8  ROSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

down  before  any  very  severe  weather,  and  suffer  far 
less  than  those  planted  later  in  the  winter.  But 
roses  can  be  safely  planted,  if  proper  precautions  are 
taken  in  the  process,  as  late  as  February  and  March 
— open  weather  of  course  being  selected  for  the  pro- 
cess ;  and  I  have  indeed  planted  them  late  in  April 
without  damage  :  but  that  was  of  course  taking  a  big 
risk  as  a  matter  of  necessity. 

Whether  we  get  our  roses  from  British  or  from 
foreign  growers,  the  orders  should  be  sent  out  as  early 
as  possible  in  September  and  October,  to  secure  the 
best  plants  and  to  ensure  their  arrival  in  good  time. 

A  mild  day,  if  possible  without  sun,  is  best  for 
planting  roses.  And  if  the  bundles  arrive  in  a  frost 
it  is  better  not  to  attempt  to  open  them,  but  to  put 
them  just  as  they  are  into  some  outbuilding  in  which 
the  frost  cannot  get  at  them,  where  they  may  safely 
stay  for  several  days. 

Unpacking. — When  they  arrive,  the  bundles  must 
be  opened  most  carefully,  and  the  packing  removed 
gently.  I  have  seen  valuable  roses  badly  broken  by  a 
careless  person,  who  has  pulled  them  roughly  out  of 
the  package  instead  of  quietly  disentangling  the 
shoots.  If  the  journey  has  been  a  long  one,  the 
plants  should  be  well  syringed  at  once,  and  the  roots 
plunged  in  a  bucket  of  water  for  half-an-hour  before 
planting.  Great  care  must  also  be  taken  in  every 
case  not  to  leave  the  roots  of  the  plants  exposed  to 
the  air ;  for  if  the  roots  get  dried  up,  a  great  and 


PLANTING  A  EOSE   GARDEN  9 

sometimes  fatal  check  is  given  to  the  rose.  Those  which 
cannot  be  planted  immediately  should  be  laid  along  a 
trench  and  lightly  heeled  in  with  soil,  until  they  are 
wanted.  And  even  those  which  are  to  be  planted 
immediately,  should  have  a  mat  thrown  over  the  roots 
as  they  lie  beside  the  bed  waiting  their  turn,  especi- 
ally if  the  day  is  sunny  or  the  wind  cold.  Many 
of  the  great  growers  advise  dipping  the  roots  in 
liquid  mud  mixed  with  a  little  cow  manure  before 
planting. 

Each  plant  must  now  be  carefully  examined,  and 
any  broken  shoot,  or  bruised  and  broken  root,  cut  off 
with  a  clean  cut.  For  this  I  prefer  a  secateur  to  a 
knife,  if  the  secateur  is  a  very  sharp  one.1  A  torn, 
bruised,  or  broken  root,  if  left  on  the  plant  will  decay 
right  up  and  do  incalculable  mischief.  Sometimes,  in 
the  case  of  one's  own  roses  grown  from  cuttings  out  of 
doors,  the  roots  are  so  rampant  that  it  is  well  to 
shorten  them  before  replanting ;  but  this  is  not  often 
necessary  with  new  stock  from  the  growers. 

The  holes  must  now  be  dug  ready  for  the  reception 
of  each  plant.  In  well- worked  ground,  such  as  the 
new  bed  described  above,  a  hole  eighteen  inches  across 
and  eight  inches  to  one  foot  in  depth,  is  sufficient  : 
but  in  this  we  must  be  guided  by  the  root  habit  of 
each  plant.  Some  have  roots  of  a  spreading  nature  ; 
others  are  deep  rooting.  And  the  idiosyncrasy  of  each 
individual  rose  must  be  studied,  if  we  wish  it  to  be 

1  See  pruning,  p  17. 


io  ROSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 

happy.  In  an  old  bed  it  is  well  to  break  the  ground 
all  about  the  hole  with  a  fork ;  as  the  roots  can  then 
penetrate  the  surrounding  soil  with  ease.  And  I 
would  repeat  that  when  the  hole  is  made  ready  for  its 
occupant,  we  should  see  that  no  manure  is  on  the 
surface  upon  which  the  roots  will  lie. 

Planting,  to  be  well  done,  needs  two  persons. 

When  all  is  ready,  the  plant,  held  in  the  left  hand, 
is  set  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  hole,  while  with  the 
right  the  roots  are  spread  out  flat  in  all  directions,  so 
that  none  are  bent  or  twisted  or  allowed  to  cross,  but 
are  so  arranged  that  the  rose  gets  proper  support  on 
all  sides.  In  fact  they  should  be  regarded  as  the  guy- 
ropes  of  a  flagstaff,  intended  to  hold  the  plant  firm 
from  all  points.  If  a  root  is  too  long  to  lie  at  its 
full  length  in  the  hole,  instead  of  trying  to  fit  it  in 
against  its  natural  inclination  by  turning  it  round  the 
side  of  the  hole,  a  further  little  channel  must  be  dug 
in  which  it  can  lie  perfectly  flat.  And  great  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  little  white,  fibrous 
rootlets,  which  mean  flowering  strength  for  the 
coming  season. 

The  collar,  or  point  at  which  the  dwarf  rose  is  budded 
on  to  the  briar,  should  be  from  one  to  three  inches  below 
the  surface  of  the  soil  when  the  planting  is  completed. 
In  newly  made  ground  I  prefer  three  inches,  as  the 
soil  always  sinks  a  little.  This  is  enough  ;  for  the 
plant  should  never  be  buried,  and  the  roots  should  be 
kept  as  near  the  surface  as  possible.  But  if  the  collar 


PLANTING  A   ROSE   GARDEN 


1 1 


is  above  the  ground,  the  stock  begins  to  throw  suckers 
which  take  all  its  strength,  and  the  scion  perishes. 


FIG  1.— Mode  of  Planting  a  Standard  Rose. 

When  the  rose  is  properly  set  out  and  still  held 
firmly  in  position,  the  second  planter  sprinkles  some 
fine  good  soil  among  the  roots — I  generally  give  the 


12  EOSES   AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

plant  a  little  gentle  lifting  shake  at  this  point,  to  allow 
the  fine  earth  to  fall  into  all  the  interstices  of  the 
roots.  He  then  fills  up  the  hole  gradually,  pressing 
down  the  soil  firmly  at  first  with  the  hand,  and  when 
all  is  on  treading  it  down  with  the  foot,  thus  making 
the  plant  absolutely  firm  in  its  place  before  number 
one  lets  go  his  hold  on  it. 

If  their  roots  have  been  thoroughly  soaked  and 
swelled  before  planting,  the  roses  need  not  be  watered. 
But  if  the  weather  is  dry,  yet  mild,  it  is  well  to  give 
them  a  good  syringing  when  they  are  all  in  place, 
especially  if  they  have  come  a  long  journey.  This, 
however,  must  be  done  in  the  forenoon,  to  allow  them 
to  dry  before  any  chance  of  a  chill  during  the  night. 

In  the  case  of  standards,  large  bushy  plants,  or 
pillar  roses,  a  stake  should  be  put  against  them  before 
the  hole  is  filled  with  earth.  This  is  far  the  most 
satisfactory  plan,  as  it  avoids  the  chance  of  bruising 
or  breaking  the  roots  if  the  stake  is  forced  in  among 
them  after  planting.  And,  as  I  have  said,  the  more 
fine  fibrous  roots  the  plant  can  throw,  the  better  the 
flowers  it  will  bring. 

Tarred  twine,  or  Eaffia  tape,  are  the  best  materials 
for  tying  standard  and  pillar  roses.  The  twine  should 
be  given  a  double  twist  round  the  stake  and  then  tied 
firmly  round  the  stem,  but  not  too  tight,  so  as  to 
allow  room  for  the  stem  or  branch  to  swell. 

Under  no  circumstances  must  wire  be  used. 

In  the  case  of  roses  taken  out  of  pots,  the  question 


PLANTING  A  KOSE  GARDEN  13 

of  spreading  the  roots  is  one  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance ;  as,  if  they  have  been  long  in  a  pot  the  roots  are 
interlaced  in  a  perfect  ball,  and  need  most  careful 
handling  to  avoid  breaking  them. 

When  all  are  safely  in  place,  the  tickets  must  be 
taken  off  and  replaced  by  labels  stuck  in  the  ground 
beside  each  plant.1  Many  roses,  especially  from 
abroad,  come  with  labels  fastened  on  with  wire. 
These  should  be  removed  without  delay;  for  the 
moment  the  shoots  bepdn  to  swell  the  wire  eats  into 
them,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  months  will  either 
kill  the  shoot  or  break  it.  This  is  a  most  important 
matter.  And  I  have  had  sad  experience  in  it ;  as 
owing  to  carelessness  and  hurry  in  planting  a  number 
of  extremely  good  French  roses,  I  overlooked  some  of 
the  wired  labels.  Eight  months  later,  half — and  the 
larger  half — of  a  fine  plant  in  full  flower  of  the  dwarf 
Polyantha,  Perle  des  Rouges,  was  broken  off  on  a 
windy  day;  and  on  examination  I  found  that  the 
stem  had  swelled  to  such  a  size  round  the  corroding 
wire,  that  the  weight  it  was  bearing  of  foliage,  flowers, 
and  branches  had  broken  it  clean  off.  Even  a  label 
tied  on  with  a  string  is  injurious,  from  the  constant 
chafing  of  the  bark  as  the  wind  blows  it  to  and  fro 
and  tightens  the  knot. 

Our  heavy  task  being  now  accomplished,  we  can 

1  But  as  these  are  apt  to  get  moved,  whether  by  human  hands, 
or  by  cats  and  dogs,  who  take  a  diabolic  pleasure  in  pulling  them 
out  and  knocking  them  over,  it  is  well  to  make  an  exact  list  of 
the  position  of  each  rose  on  paper. 


i4  EOSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

await  the  rigours  of  winter  cheerfully.  But  let  no  one 
persuade  us  that  the  newly  planted  beds  would  look 
better  if  raked  smooth  instead  of  being  left  quite 
rough.  A  smooth  rose  bed  means  that  the  soil  cakes 
hard,  preventing  the  rain  penetrating  in  summer,  and 
the  frost  mellowing  the  ground  in  winter.  And  from 
early  spring  to  late  autumn  the  hoe  should  be  kept 
constantly  at  work  between  the  plants  ;  not  merely  to 
keep  down  weeds,  but  to  keep  the  surface  of  the 
ground  open  to  the  influences  of  rain,  sun,  and  the 
watering-pot. 


CHAPTER  II 

PRUNING   AND   PROPAGATING 

OF  all  the  many  toils  and  anxieties  that  beset  the 
path  of  the  amateur  rosarian,  I  think  we  may  safely 
say  pruning  is  the  chief.  The  rules  to  be  observed 
are  few.  The  idiosyncrasies  of  each  rose  are  many. 
And  the  demands  upon  one's  own  judgment  and 
initiative  are  constant. 

Two  things  have  to  be  considered  before  we  begin 
the  puzzling  task.  Are  we  growing  our  roses  for 
exhibition,  or  at  all  events  for  a  very  few  very 
perfect  blooms  ?  Or  are  we  growing  them  for 
quantity,  for  mere  enjoyment,  on  the  "  cut  and  come 
again"  principle,  which  enables  one  not  only  to  fill 
the  house  without  robbing  the  garden,  but  to  fill  the 
hands  of  every  one  who  comes  into  the  garden  and 
looks  at  the  masses  of  blossom  with  longing  eyes  ? 

As  I  do  not  exhibit,  the  second  plan  is  the  one  I 
have  studied  most  closely.  For  the  other  I  must  refer 
my  readers  to  my  friend  the  Eev.  F.  Page-Roberts' 
valuable  notes,  on  how  to  grow  and  show  roses  in 
Chapter  XL 

When    to    prune.— The    old-fashioned   plan    of 

15 


1 6  ROSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 

pruning  all  roses  in  the  autumn  has  now  been,  happily 
for  their  well-being,  given  up  in  England.  It  was 
owing  to  this  that  many  of  the  earlier  varieties  of 
Tea  roses,  and  even  some  of  the  Bourbons  and  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  were  considered  50  years  ago  too  "  tender  " 
to  plant  freely  out  of  doors. 

Pruning  now  begins  in  February,  and  goes  on 
through  March  and  April. 

In  February  we  begin  to  prune  the  Rugosas ; 
Boursaults ;  Sempervirens ;  and  Ayrshires. 

In  February  and  early  March,  the  Provence ;  Moss ; 
miniature  Provence;  many  of  the  Species,  such  as 
Alpina,  Moschata,  and  Bracteata,  and  their  hybrids. 

In  early  March  the  Gallica;  Damask;  Alba; 
Hybrid  Chinas ;  and  Sweet  Briars.  To  be  followed 
by  Hybrid  Bourbons ;  Hybrid  Noisettes  and  Musics ; 
Austrian  and  Scotch  Briars;  Multifloras;  Ram- 
blers; Wichuraianas ;  Chinas;  Dijon  Teas;  dwarf 
Polyanthas ;  and  dwarf  and  standard  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals and  Hybrid  Teas. 

Climbing  varieties  of  Noisettes,  Teas,  Hybrid 
Teas,  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  may  be  thinned  out, 
if  necessary,  after  flowering  in  summer.  But  they 
must  be  pruned  in  March. 

In  April  the  Teas  and  Noisettes,  both  dwarf  and 
standard,  and  the  Banksian  roses  are  pruned. 

HOW  to  prune. — This  is  a  much-disputed  subject 
among  rose  growers,  and  as  authorities  differ  widely 
with  regard  to  it,  some  advocating  hard  pruning,  and 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          17 

others  just  as  strongly  swearing  by  light  pruning,  so 
do  they  differ  as  to  the  instrument  to  be  used.  The 
pruning  knife  is  most  generally  recommended  ;  while 
the  secateur,  so  universally  in  use  on  the  Continent,  is 
advised  merely  for  the  cutting  of  dead  wood.  But  the 
knife  has  its  disadvantages,  especially  in  the  hands  of  a 
woman.  For  not  only  may  one  get  an  ugly  cut  with  it : 
but  even  in  a  man's  hands  I  have  seen  the  plant  pulled 
about  more  than  I  like,  in  cutting  a  tough  branch.  I 
am  therefore  delighted  to  find  that  so  great  an 
authority  as  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton  advocates  the 
use  of  the  secateur  for  all  pruning,  as  for  many  years 
I  have  used  nothing  else.  The  amount  of  time  and 
strength  it  saves  one  is  infinite,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
comfort  of  so  handy  a  weapon. 

There  are,  however,  secateurs  and  secateurs — and  a 
poor  one  is  worse  than  useless.  Its  blades  must  be 
as  sharp  as  a  razor,  and  so  accurately  set  that  they 
make  a  perfectly  clean  cut  right  through,  without 
pinching  the  branch  or  tearing  the  bark.  In  choosing 
one,  it  is  well  to  try  it  on  a  sheet  of  tissue  paper.  If 
it  cuts  the  paper  like  a  sharp  pair  of  scissors,  it  is  all 
right.  But  if  it  curls  the  paper  round  the  blade, 
instead  of  making  a  clean  cut,  it  is  to  be  avoided. 
After  trying  many  different  makes,  I  have  found  that 
the  Secateur  Montr  euil,  which  I  have  now  procured  for 
several  years  from  MM.  Vilmorin,  Andrieux  et  Cie., 
4,  Quai  de  la  Megisserie,  Paris,  is  far  the  best  I  can 
get.  It  costs  8  francs,  and  is  made  in  three  sizes. 


i8 


ROSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 


As  to  hard-and-fast  rules  in  pruning,  there  are  but 
two. 

1.  Prune  weak-growing  roses  much  harder  than 
strong-growing  roses.  As  the  object  of  pruning  is 
to  throw  the  sap  into  the  young  shoots  which  will 


:^*rjS^>*A'>C*i*^'Nrr    ^_ 

FIG.  2a  —  Kosebush  requiring  light  FIG.  26.— Kosebush  requiring 

pruning— unpruned.  light  pruning— pruned. 

start  from  the  dormant  buds  or  "  eyes,"  in  order  to 
make  them  flower,  a  weak-growing  rose  must  be 
pruned  hard  so  as  to  concentrate  all  the  vigour  of  the 
plant  on  the  few  dormant  buds  we  leave.  While 
if  we  prune  a  stroDg-gr owing  rose  very  hard  we 
only  make  it  throw  yet  longer  shoots,  which  soon 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          19 

get  out  of  all  bounds,  and  run  to  wood  and  not  to 
blossom. 

2.  Always  prune  to  a  dormant  bud  which  points 
outwards.  This  is  done  to  keep  the  centre  of  the  plant 
comparatively  free,  by  preventing  the  shoots  crossing 
and  choking  each  other. 

In  pruning  we  have  to  keep  two  objects  ever  in 
view.  In  the  first  place  we  must  prune  in  order  to 
get  rid  of  all  dead  wood,  and  weak,  unripe  and  useless 
shoots,  thus  enabling  the  young  healthy  wood  to  take 
their  place.  And  secondly  we  must  prune  so  as  to 
keep  the  plant  in  good  shape  and  good  health,  by 
cutting  back  the  strong  and  healthy  wood  we  leave  to 
a  suitable  length. 

If  the  winter  has  been  mild,  we  shall  find  many 
buds  on  the  upper  part  of  strong  shoots  of  last  year's 
growth,  which  are  already  bursting  into  leaf  and  even 
showing  a  flower  bud.  And  it  seems  so  brutal  to 
destroy  these,  that  I  know  one  is  often  tempted  to 
leave  some  to  take  their  chance,  instead  of  hardening 
one's  heart  and  sternly  cutting  down  to  just  above  the 
first  dormant  bud.  But  when  the  plants  really  start 
in  May,  we  pay  for  our  tender-hearted  folly  by  blind 
unhealthy  shoots  which  only  disfigure  the  plant,  while 
the  real  flower  shoots  are  starting  below  and  cannot 
get  up  to  the  light  and  air.  Or,  again,  the  unpruned 
shoot  turns  black  and  begins  to  die  back,  and  we  have 
to  cut  it  down  much  further  than  would  have  been 
necessary  had  we  pruned  it  at  the  right  moment. 


20  EOSES  AND   KOSE  GEOWING 

In  pruning,  however,  let  the  amateur  remember 
that  until  he  has  gained  considerable  experience  in 
the  matter,  it  is  far  safer  to  prune  too  lightly  than  to 
prune  in  excess.  And  I  must  repeat  that  no  rules 
will  really  help  us,  unless  we  study  the  special  nature 
and  idiosyncrasy  of  each  individual  plant,  exactly  as 
we  study  the  character  of  the  child  we  have  to  deal 
with. 

With  climbing  summer-flowering  roses  very  little 
pruning  at  all  is  required,  except  slightly  shortening 
the  ends  of  the  long  rambling  shoots,  cutting  out  all 
the  dead  wood,  and  cutting  some  of  the  old  flowering 
shoots  which  are  worn  out,  down  to  the  base. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  Eamblers,  Noisettes, 
and  other  climbing  roses  bear  their  flowers  on  the 
laterals  of  the  long  shoots  of  the  former  year.  While 
the  Banksias,  some  of  the  Multifloras  such  as  Aglaia, 
and  that  beautiful  rose  Fortune's  Yellow,  only  flower 
on  the  sub-laterals,  i.  e.  on  wood  three  years  old.  If 
therefore  these  shoots  are  cut  back  too  hard  the  plant 
does  not  flower. 

One  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Crimson  Rambler  I 
have  ever  seen,  was  ruined  for  several  years  by  an 
ignorant  person  who  carefully  and  triumphantly  cut 
out  all  the  long  shoots  of  the  former  year,  which  he 
considered  mere  "sucker  rods."  And  then  he  was 
surprised  at  the  plant  bearing  no  flowers. 

A  certain  amount  of  very  useful  minor  pruning  can 
be  carried  on  all  through  the  summer,  by  cutting  out 


PRUNING  AND  PROPAGATING          21 

bits  of  old  wood  when  they  have  flowered,  if  we  see 
that  they  have  no  young  shoots  on  which  to  bear  a 
second  crop  later  on.  For  instance  when  the  newer 
China  roses,  such  as  Laurette  Messimy,  are  in  full 
bloom,  we  often  find  a  bit  of  one  of  last  year's  growths 
which  has  borne  one  or  two  of  the  earliest  flowers  and 
now  merely  blocks  up  the  young  tender  shoots  full  of 
buds.  This  is  the  time  to  cut  it  out,  instead  of  allowing 
it  to  absorb  part  of  the  strength  which  should  go  to 
the  new  wood. 

Cutting  off  dead  blooms.— Though  to  some  it 

may  seem  a  small  matter,  much  good  may  also  be 
done  to  our  plants  through  the  summer  by  the  way 
we  remove  dead  flowers.  Instead  of  merely  snapping 
off  each  blossom  between  thumb  and  finger,  it  is 
better  to  do  a  little  very  mild  pruning,  by  cutting 
each  dead  blossom  off  just  above  the  second  leaf  below 
it.  This  greatly  promotes  the  autumn  blooming  of 
the  plants,  and  keeps  them  in  good  shape.  It  is  a 
little  more  trouble,  but  amply  repays  us  in  the  end. 

The  precise  moment  of  setting  to  work  must  depend 
to  some  extent  on  the  weather.     Of  course  we  cannot 
begin  in  a  heavy  frost,  as  that  would  be  fatal  to  the 
plants.     Nor  can  I  go  as  far  as  Mr.  Pemberton,  who 
with  delightful  enthusiasm  advises  us  to  choose  a  cold 
day  with  north-east  wind  and  occasional  sleet  showers. 
That  is  too  complete  a  counsel  of  perfection  for  most 
mortals ;  for   however   much   they  love   their  roses, 
they  equally  dread  pneumonia  for  themselves.     But 


22  EOSES   AND  ROSE   GROWING 

certainly  a  cool,  overcast  day  is  best,  as  there  is  less 
chance  of  the  wood  bleeding  than  in  mild,  soft 
weather. 

Well  prepared,  therefore,  secateur  in  hand,  and 
knife  in  pocket  in  case  of  need,  with  strong  gloves  and 
old  clothes,  and  if  a  woman,  with  a  housemaid's  kneel- 
ing pad  to  kneel  on  so  as  to  get  more  easily  at  the 
dwarf  plants — for  pruning  is  tiring  work  in  any  case, 
and  it  is  well  to  save  extra  fatigue  and  backache — we 
now  begin  on  a  late  February  day,  with 

Rllgosa  Roses. — These  need  little  pruning  beyond 
cutting  out  the  dead  wood,  and  cutting  back  some 
of  the  old  wood  almost  to  the  base,  when  it  will  throw 
up  fresh  shoots  which  will  bloom  late.  The  suckers 
which  these  roses  throw  up  in  numbers,  may  be  cut 
back  to  three  or  four  feet  to  form  a  thick  bush. 

Ayrshires     and     Sempervirens. — Thin    out 

slightly  and  cut  out  dead  wood — no  further  pruning 
is  needed. 

BoursaultS  need  no  thinning.  The  flowers  are 
borne  on  the  laterals  of  last  year's  long  shoots,  which 
may  be  left  six  to  ten  feet  long. 

The  Species  and  most  of  their  hybrids  need  no 
pruning  beyond  cutting  out  dead  wood,  and  occasion- 
ally cutting  the  young  base  shoots  back  to  hard,  well- 
ripened  wood,  when  the  tips  are  touched  by  frost. 

Provence  and  MOSS  Roses. — Cut  out  old  wood  ; 
thin  out  old  shoots,  and  cut  back  the  young  base 
shoots  and  laterals  to  four  or  six  eyes.  Some  of  the 


PRUNING  AND  PROPAGATING          23 

strong- growing  moss  roses  may  be  left  taller.  The 
Perpetual  MOSS  roses  are  pruned  as  hybrid  per- 
petuals  for  garden  decoration. 

Miniature   Provence.— Keep   well   pruned   to 

within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  thin  out  the 
centre. 

Gallica  and  Damask.— Prune  lightly.  The 
strong  growers  may  be  kept  as  tall  bushes  or  pillars. 
The  dwarf,  such  as  Red  Damask,  and  Rosa  Mundi  cut 
back  to  three  feet.  Keep  the  best  one-and  two-year- 
old  shoots  and  laterals,  and  thin  out  old  and  weak 
wood. 

Alba. — Grow  as  bushes  or  pillars  five  to  six  feet 
high,  cutting  out  weak  wood,  leaving  all  the  laterals 
on  which  the  flowers  are  borne,  about  eight  inches  to 
one  foot. 

Hybrid  Chinas,  such  as  Charles  Law  son,  Coupe 
d'Hebe  and  Madame  Plantier,  should  be  grown  as 
bushy  pillars,  leaving  the  shoots  six  feet  long. 
Shorten  the  laterals  on  old  wood  to  three  or  four 
eyes.  Blairii  No.  2  should  hardly  be  touched. 

Sweet  Briars. — Cut  out  all  weak  wood  and  cut 
old  and  naked  shoots  down  to  the  ground.  The 
Common  Sweet  Briar  should  be  grown  about  four  feet 
high.  The  Penzance  Briars  make  enormous  base 
shoots,  which  may  be  shortened  to  ten  feet  or  less 
according  to  one's  requirements,  and  some  of  the 
strong  laterals  of  last  year  shortened  back.  Lord  and 
Lady  Penzance,  from  their  Austrian  briar  blood,  are 


24  EOSES   AND  KOSE  GROWING 

much  less  vigorous,  and  need  far  less  pruning,  only 
cutting  out  dead  wood.  When  the  Penzance  and 
Common  Sweet  Briars  are  grown  as  hedges,  the  base  is 
apt  to  get  bare,  and  some  of  the  long  shoots  must  be 
laid  down  to  keep  it  clothed,  while  the  rest  are 
pruned  much  shorter. 

Hybrid  Bourbons. — Prune  the  laterals  ligLtly, 
and  leave  the  best  of  the  base  shoots. 

Hybrid  Noisettes  and  Musks. — Thin  out  old 

wood  and  tie  in  young  shoots. 

Austrian   Briars.— Only  cut   out  dead  wood. 

Soleil  d'Or,  a  hybrid,  flowers  on  the  young  wood, 
and  the  shoots  may  be  pruned  back  to  two  feet. 

Scotch  Briars. — No  pruning  is  needed,  except 
cutting  out  old  and  dead  wood  and  shortening  back 
some  of  the  numerous  suckers. 

Climbing  Multifloras  need  little  pruning.  When 
grown  as  pillars  or  on  screens  they  are  apt  to  get  bare 
at  the  base.  Therefore  it  is  well  to  cut  some  of  the 
weaker  young  shoots  back  to  two  or  three  feet  to 
clothe  the  base,  leaving  the  strong  ones  their  full 
length.  With  Crimson  Rambler  and  its  class,  cut 
out  some  of  the  old  wood  to  make  room  for  the  young 
shoots  and  shorten  any  weak  laterals  :  but  leave  most 
of  the  strong  ones  intact,  and  do  not  touch  the  long 
base  shoots  of  the  last  year. 

Wichuraianas. — Only  cut  out  old  and  dead  wood. 
I  have  seen  a  beautiful  effect  produced  with  Dorothy 
Perkins  by  cutting  out  all  the  old  wood  in  the 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          25 

autumn,  and  training  the  long  young  shoots  over 
wire  frames  two-and-a-half  feet  wide,  forming  low 
arches  about  a  yard  from  the  ground  in  the  centre. 
The  mass  of  flower  shoots  standing  erect  on  these 
frames  makes  a  most  strikingly  beautiful  object.  The 
Wichuraianas  also  form  very  lovely  weeping  standards 
on  eight-feet  stems.  And  for  tall  pillars  and  fountain 
roses  they  are  unequalled. 

Chinas. — The  old  Blush  and  Cramoisie  Supe- 
rieure  should  only  be  thinned.  The  newer  kinds, 
such  as  Mme.  Eugene  Resal,  Laurette  Messimy,  etc., 
may  be  cut  back  to  a  few  eyes  from  the  ground. 

Bourbons. — Prune  lightly,  growing  as  bold  bushes 
or  standards ;  except  Hermosa,  which  may  be  pruned 
back  to  form  a  dwarf,  spreading,  two-feet  bush  ;  while 
Mrs.  Bosanquet  is  treated  like  the  Chinas. 

Noisettes  are  of  two  types.  The  strong  growers 
need  hardly  any  pruning,  except  Marechal  Niel, 
which  must  have  all  cankered  and  weak  shoots  re- 
moved after  it  has  flowered.  Lamarque,  Fortune's 
Yellow  (which  must  not  be  pruned  at  all),  and  Jaune 
Desprez  need  a  wall;  and  Celine  Forestier  prefers 
one. 

The  other  type,  such  as  I! Ideal  and  William  Allen 
Richardson,  may  be  pruned  fairly  close,  by  cutting 
back  the  laterals  to  a  few  eyes.  All  Noisettes  bear 
their  flowers  on  the  laterals  ;  therefore  these  should 
be  preserved  as  much  as  possible. 

Dijon  Teas. — These  are  the  climbing  and  vigorous 


26  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Gloire  de  Dijon  and  its  descendants  and  allies,  such 
as  Belle  Lyonnaise,  Francois  Crousse,  Duchesse 
d'Auerstadt,  Mme.  Berard,  etc.  They  are  all  apt  to 
get  bare  below.  Therefore,  while  some  of  the  strong 
shoots  from  the  base  are  left  almost  their  full  length, 
others  must  be  cut  back,  some  to  two  or  three  feet, 
others  to  four  or  five  feet,  in  order  to  keep  the  whole 
surface  of  the  wall,  arch,  or  pillar  clothed  evenly. 
The  laterals  may  be  pruned  on  the  same  plan.  Old 
worn  out  wood  should  be  occasionally  cut  down  to  the 
base  to  make  it  start  afresh,  when  the  first  flowering 
is  over. 

Banksia  Roses. — These  need  no  pruning  except 
in  the  case  of  a  very  old  plant,  when  a  shoot  that 
shows  weakness  may  be  cut  down  to  the  base  in  April. 
But  I  have  pointed  out:in  Chapter  IV  that  the  Banksias 
bear  their  flowers  on  the  sub-laterals  of  the  third  year. 
Therefore,  for  three  years  they  must  not  be  touched 
with  the  knife,  and  the  shoots  merely  tied  in  evenly 
over  the  surface  of  the  wall. 

Dwarf  Polyanthas. — These  only  need  to  have 
the  old  flower  stems  cut  out  in  March. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas,  dwarf 

and  standard. — If  pruned  for  garden  purposes  or  what 
I  call  enjoyment,  not  for  exhibition,  all  dead  wood 
and  weak  or  unripe  shoots  must  be  cut  out  to  the 
base  of  the  plant.  The  centre  of  the  plant  must  be 
kept  clear  by  removing  shoots  which  cross  each  other. 
The  strong  ripe  shoots  from  the  base  should  be  cut 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          27 

back  to  about  twelve  inches,  and  the  laterals  on  the 
old  wood  cut  back  to  about  four  to  six  eyes.  This  is 
merely  a  general  guide  to  the  pruning  of  these  two 
kinds  of  roses.  But  the  rosarian,  as  I  have  said,  will 
have  to  study  the  peculiarities  of  each  individual 
plant,  and  to  adapt  these  instructions  to  its  needs, 
leaving  more  shoots  on  the  stronger  roses,  and  keeping 
them  longer  than  on  the  weak-growing  varieties. 

Teas  and  Noisettes,  both  dwarf  and  standard, 
are  pruned  on  exactly  the  same  lines  as  the  Hybrid 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  but  must  be  pruned  in 
April  instead  of  March. 

PROPAGATING  ROSES. 

The  three  chief  methods  of  propagating  roses  are 
by- 

1.  Budding  on  the  briar  stock. 

2.  Cuttings. 

3.  Layering. 

Budding. — This  is  the  best-known  method  of 
propagating.  And  it  is  so  widely  practised  by 
amateurs  and  gardeners  of  all  degree,  that  it  is 
better  to  get  an  object-lesson  in  the  art  than  to 
depend  on  written  instructions.  With  a  little  prac- 
tise any  one  with  neat  fingers  can  bud.  But  great 
care  must  be  taken  in  the  operation,  not  to  bruise  the 
bark  of  the  bud  or  "  shield  "  that  is  to  be  inserted  in 
the  stock. 

The  best  stocks,  whether  for  dwarfs  or  standards, 


28  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

are  those  of  the  wild  Dog  Rose  from  woods  and 
hedgerows.  These  should  be  taken  up  in  October 
and  November,  care  being  taken  that  each  stock  has 
fair  roots,  that  the  roots  are  not  torn  or  bruised,  and 
that  they  are  not  dry  and  shrivelled  when  planted. 
In  fact,  they  ought  to  be  treated  with  just  the  same 
care  we  bestow  on  our  new  roses  when  we  plant  them 
out.  The  stocks  may  be  at  once  shortened,  to  about 
three  feet  for  half-standards,  and  very  strong  ones  for 
specimen  or  weeping  roses  may  be  kept  six  and  eight 
feet  long.  But  in  shortening  both,  they  must  always 
be  cut  just  above  a  bud.  In  the  following  summer 
these  stocks  will  have  thrown  out  side-shoots  ;  and  it 
is  in  these  that  the  buds  are  to  be  inserted.  We  can 
tell  when  "  the  bark  will  run,"  i.  e.  that  it  is  ready 
for  budding,  by  trying  whether  the  thorns  break  off 
clean  when  pushed  by  the  thumb.  If  the  thorn 
bends  and  does  not  leave  the  bark,  the  wood  is  not 
ripe  enough.  If  the  thorn  sticks  tight  to  the  wood, 
and  yet  is  brittle,  the  wood  is  too  ripe. 

Dwarf  stocks  are  treated  much  in  the  same 
way,  but  must  be  planted  nearer  the  surface  than 
standards ;  for  when  they  are  budded  the  earth  must 
be  removed  right  down  to  the  roots,  in  order  to 
set  the  bud  as  low  as  possible,  as  it  is  inserted  in 
the  stem  itself,  and  not  in  the  young  wood  of  the 
year. 

We  then  choose  the  "  scion  " — a  twig  of  the  rose 
we  wish  to  propagate  which  has  already  flowered, 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          29 

with  plump  but  not  too  large  buds  behind  each  leaf 
stalk.  Inserting  the  budding-knife  about  half  an 
inch  above  the  lowest  of  these  buds  or  "  eyes,"  we 
slice  down,  making  a  little  dip  inwards  towards  the 
wood  as  the  knife  passes  the  bud,  to  nearly  an  inch 
below  it,  not  cutting  through  the  bark,  but  peeling  it 
off  the  scion.  The  thin  slice  of  wood  which  adheres 
to  the  inside  of  the  strip  of  bark  containing  the  bud, 
is  now  removed  by  inserting  the  knife  between  it  and 
the  bark,  and  jerking  it  out  sharply.  Nothing  should 
now  be  left  in  the  bark  save  the  soft  green  substance 
of  the  "eye."  But  if  this  has  been  dragged  out 
with  the  wood,  the  bud  is  useless,  and  must  be 
thrown  away.  The  shield  of  bark  is  then  trimmed 
to  a  point  below. 

The  stock  is  now  made  ready  to  receive  the  bud. 
At  the  point  we  have  chosen  for  inserting  the  bud — 
in  standards  let  it  be  as  close  as  possible  to  the  main 
stem — a  perpendicular  slit  from  half  an  inch  to  an 
inch  long  is  made  with  the  budding-knife,  care  being 
taken  only  to  cut  through  the  bark  and  not  to  wound 
the  wood  below.  A  short  cross-cut  is  made  at  the 
top  of  the  slit.  Then  the  bark  is  gently  raised  on 
each  side  downwards  from  this  cross-cut,  with  the 
flat  handle  of  the  knife. 

Into  this  slit  the  bud  is  slipped  by  putting  the 
pointed  lower  end  into  the  cross  slit,  and  pushing  it 
down  as  far  as  it  will  go.  We  then  cut  off  any  bark 
at  the  top  of  the  bud  that  overlaps  the  cross-cut,  so 


30  EOSES  AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

that  the  shield  fits  in  perfectly,  when  the  side  flaps 
of  bark  are  brought  gently  over  it. 

With  a  bit  of  Eaffia  grass,  well  moistened  in  water, 
we  now  bind  up  the  bud ;  beginning  from  below  with 
a  double  turn  over  one  end  of  the  Eaffia,  and  keep- 
ing it  quite  flat,  exactly  in  the  way  we  put  on  a 
surgical  bandage.  When  we  come  to  the  bud  itself, 
the  Eaffia  must  be  wound  tightly  and  as  close  to  the 
eye  as  possible  without  actually  touching  it.  When 
the  whole  slit  is  completely  and  evenly  covered,  slip 
the  end  of  the  Eaffia  through  the  last  turn  and  pull 
it  tight.  The  operation  is  now  complete. 

CUTTINGS. 

Eoses  on  their  own  roots  are  grown  from  cuttings, 
and  it  is  a  system  which  suits  many  varieties. 

HOW  to  make  a  cutting. — Cuttings  are  taken 
from  well-ripened  twigs  which  have  already  flowered, 
or  from  a  lateral  upon  the  main  flowering  shoot,  which 
has  ceased  growing  without  bearing  a  blossom.  They 
should  be  from  two  to  six  or  seven  inches  in 
length,  with  three  to  nine  buds  upon  them.  And 
judgment  is  needed  regarding  these  buds  in  choosing 
the  twig,  as  we  must  take  one  on  which  they  are 
neither  immature  nor  too  fully  developed.  In  the  case 
of  a  cutting  with  ten  leaves  we  cut  off  the  top  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  above  the  fourth  leaf,  and  the 
same  distance  below  the  tenth.  The  four  lower  leaves 
are  then  cut  off  close  to  the  bud  they  cover,  and  the 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING          31 

three  upper  ones  are  left  on.     When  the  cutting  is 
planted,  two-thirds  of  it  should  be  in  the  soil. 


FIG.  3. — Eose  cutting  with  a  heel,  4  leaves  cut,  2  leaves  left. 

Cuttings  are  taken  in  two  ways. 
1.  With   a  heel;   that  is  a  small   portion  of  the 
wood  of  the  stem  from  which  the  twig  grows. 


32 


ROSES  AND  ROSE   GROWING 


2.  Without  a  heel ;  being  cut  through  just  below 
a  bud. 


FIG.  4. — Rose  cutting  without  a  heel,  4  leaves  cut,  2  leaves  left. 

Cuttings  under  glass.— Cuttings  of  the  choice 
kinds  of  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas,  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  and 
Chinas  are  raised  under  glass,  taken  from  pot  plants 
as  soon  as  they  have  flowered  in  the  spring.  The 
cuttings  are  put  in  pots  filled  with  fibrous  loam  and 
silver  sand,  about  six  in  a  five-inch  pot.  When  ready 


PRUNING  AND   PROPAGATING         33 

to  root  at  the  end  of  two  or  three  weeks,  the  pots  are 
placed  in  a  frame  on  bottom  heat  to  start  growth. 
The  same  plan  is  pursued  in  the  autumn,  with  cut- 
tings taken  from  plants  grown  out  of  doors ;  but 
they  do  not  strike  as  rapidly  as  those  taken  from 
pot  plants  earlier. 

Cuttings  in  the  open  ground.— This  is  an 

interesting  and  easy  way  of  getting  a  good  stock  of 
many  kinds  of  hardy,  strong-growing  Perpetuals, 
Sweet  Briars,  Eamblers,  etc.  And  it  may  be  suc- 
cessfully carried  on  from  early  in  August  to  the 
middle  of  October. 

Cuttings  are  inserted  three  inches  apart  in  rows, 
leaving  some  ten  inches  between  each  row.  They 
may  be  either  set  in  a  trench,  or  dibbled  into  a 
specially  prepared  bed.  I  have  tried  both  plans,  and 
find  the  following  very  successful.  A  bit  of  ground, 
partially  but  not  too  much  shaded,  is  forked  up ;  a 
layer  of  good  rotten  manure  laid  on  it ;  upon  this 
three  inches  of  leaf  mould ;  on  this  again  three 
inches  of  sharp,  sandy  road- scrapings — silver  sand 
would  be  as  good  or  better,  but  here  the  gravel  road- 
grit  is  handy.  The  bed  is  then  stamped  down  as 
hard  as  possible,  until  it  forms  a  firm  solid  mass. 
The  cuttings  are  then  inserted  in  rows — a  hole  of  the 
right  depth  for  each  being  made  into  the  compost 
with  a  smooth  sharp-pointed  stick  the  size  of  a  lead 
pencil-— a  long  wooden  penholder  is  a  good  dibble. 
Into  this  hole  the  cutting  is  thrust  till  its  base  rests 


34  ROSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

firmly  on  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  and  the  soil  is 
pressed  tight  round  the  stem  with  the  fingers.  When 
all  are  in  place  a  thorough  soaking  of  water  is  given 
them ;  and  except  for  firming  them  in  when  worms 
raise  the  soil  about  them,  they  must  not  be  disturbed 
until  the  top  leaves  begin  to  fall.  We  shall  then  see 
which  are  likely  to  strike,  and  can  pull  out  those 
whose  wood  has  begun  to  shrivel,  as  they  are  dead. 

Many  of  these  cuttings  will  show  flower  the  next 
summer.  And  by  November — i.  e.  fifteen  months 
after  planting — they  can  be  lifted  and  planted  out 
in  their  permanent  quarters. 

The  other  plan  is  to  make  a  little  trench  eight 
inches  or  so  deep  in  good  loamy  soil,  with  a  layer 
of  silver  sand  at  the  bottom.  The  cuttings  are  set 
against  the  sloped  side  of  the  trench,  and  it  is  then 
filled  up  with  soil  and  stamped  in  very  firmly.  I 
find  this  answers  best  for  the  Penzance  Sweet  Briars ; 
but  personally  I  prefer  the  former  plan  for  other 
roses. 

The  cuttings  must  be  well  watered  and  carefully 
weeded  from  time  to  time,  and  in  the  winter  must 
be  given  slight  protection  by  fronds  of  bracken  or 
boughs  of  evergreens  laid  lightly  over  them. 

LAYERING. 

This  is  chiefly  resorted  to  when  it  is  wished  to 
increase  the  stock  rapidly  of  some  very  choice  rose. 
It  can  be  carried  on  in  summer  and  early  autumn. 


PRUNING   AND  PROPAGATING         35 

The  directions  given  in  Mr.  Rivers'  Rose  Amateur's 
Guide  of  1843  are  so  admirable  that  I  quote  them  in 
extenso. 

"  About  the  middle  of  July  in  most  seasons  the 
shoots  will  be  found  about  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet 
in  length  ;  from  these,  two-thirds  of  the  leaves  should 
be  cut  off,  close  to  the  shoot,  beginning  at  the  base, 
with  a  very  sharp  knife ;  the  shoot  must  then  be 
brought  to  the  ground,  so  as  to  be  able  to  judge  in 
what  place  the  hole  must  be  made  to  receive  it;  it 
may  be  made  large  enough  to  hold  a  quarter  of  a  peck 
of  compost ;  in  heavy  and  retentive  soils  this  should 
be  rotten  dung  and  pit  sand  in  equal  quantities,  well 
mixed ;  the  shoot  must  then  be  '  tongued,'  i.  e.  the 
knife  introduced  just  below  a  bud  and  brought  up- 
wards, so  as  to  cut  about  half  way  through  ;  this  must 
be  done  at  the  side  or  back  of  the  shoot  (not  by  any 
means  at  the  front  or  in  the  bend),  so  that  the  tongue 
does  not  close  ;  to  make  this  certain  a  small  piece  of 
glass  or  thin  earthenware  may  be  introduced  to  keep 
it  open.  Much  nicety  is  required  to  have  the  tongue 
at  the  upper  part  of  the  shoot,  so  as  not  to  be  in  the 
part  which  forms  the  bow,  as  it  is  of  consequence  that 
it  should  be  within  two  inches  of  the  surface,  so  as  to 
feel  the  effects  of  atmospheric  heat ;  unless  this  is 
attended  to  the  roots  will  not  be  emitted  quickly ;  the 
tongued  part  must  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
compost,  and  a  moderate-sized  stone  put  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground  to  keep  the  layer  in  its  place. 


36  ROSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

The  first  week  in  November  the  layers  may  be  taken 
from  the  parent  plant,  and  either  potted  as  required, 
or  planted  out  where  they  are  to  remain.  Those 
shoots  not  long  enough  in  July  and  August  may  be 
layered  in  October,  when  the  layers  are  taken  from  the 
shoots,  and,  if  any  are  forgotten,  February  and  March 
will  be  the  most  favourable  month  for  the  operation : 
as  a  general  rule,  July  is  the  proper  season." 


RUGOSA. 

ROSA    ALBA. 


CHAPTEE  III 

SUMMER-FLOWERING   ROSES — OLD    AND   NEW 

LET  us  now  consider  those  roses  which,  although 
their  lovely  season  of  blooming  is  but  short,  shed 
such  fragrance  and  delight  on  the  gardens  of  rich 
and  poor.  Our  oldest  favourites  first — the  Cabbage, 
sweetest  of  all ;  the  Moss ;  the  Maiden's  Blush ;  the 
Crimson  Damask ;  the  Austrian,  Scotch,  and  Sweet 
Briars  ;  the  tiny  Rose  de  Meaux,  so  seldom  seen  now 
in  England  that  when  we  find  bunches  of  it  on  every 
barrow  in  the  Paris  streets,  to  be  had  for  a  few 
centimes,  we  fall  upon  it  as  on  lost  treasure. 

Then  the  climbers,  the  Ayrshires,  Banksias,  Poly- 
anthas  and  Evergreen.  And  when  to  these  we  add  all 
the  novelties  which  Japan  has  bestowed  upon  us  in 
the  Kugosas  and  the  Wichuraianas,  and  those  marvels 
which  the  hybridists  are  deriving  from  them  and 
introducing  every  year  in  such  numbers,  we  may  well 
consider  where  best  to  make  a  place  for  these  lovely 
roses,  so  that  from  April  till  August  we  can  rejoice 
in  their  varied  beauty. 

Of  the  climbing  roses  I  treat  in  a  separate  chapter. 
But  if  with  regard  to  the  dwarf  or  bush  roses,  some 

37 


38  KOSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

may  raise  objections  to  massing  them  in  by  themselves, 
because  they  are  so  soon  out  of  flower  and  leave  the 
beds  bare  of  bloom  for  the  rest  of  the  summer,  the 
objection — a  valid  one — may  be  overcome  in  two  ways. 
First,  by  planting  China  roses  among  them  and  an 
edging  of  the  charming  Dwarf  Polyantha  roses  round 
them.  Secondly,  by  planting  lilies  and  late-flowering 
perennials  with  them,  which  will  be  in  bloom  as  soon 
as  they  are  over. 

But  to  my  mind,  the  Cabbage,  Moss,  Provence  and 
Damask  roses  look  most  thoroughly  in  place  in  the 
old-fashioned  mixed  border  along  the  walk  in  the 
kitchen  garden,  where  they  flower  after  wallflowers, 
daffodils  and  polyanthus,  with  lilies  and  pinks,  stocks 
and  carnations,  and  all  the  delightful  and  fragrant 
odds  and  ends  that,  somehow,  make  it  the  spot  in  the 
whole  garden  to  which  all  footsteps  turn  instinctively. 

THE  PROVENCE  on  CABBAGE  ROSE,  R.  centifolia, 

is  perhaps  the  oldest  favourite  in  English  gardens ;  for 
it  was  introduced  as  far  back  as  1596.  Said  to  have 
come  originally  from  the  Caucasus,  it  may  well  be, 
as  its  Latin  and  French  names  suggest,  the  Romans' 
favourite  "  hundred-leaved-rose  "  mentioned  by  Pliny. 
And  as  it  was  found  in  Southern  France  at  a  very 
early  date,  it  became  known  as  the  "  Provence  Rose." 
In  spite  of  all  new  comers,  beautiful  and  attractive  as 
they  are,  the  "  Old  Cabbage  Rose "  holds  its  own 
to-day  in  the  garden  of  every  true  rose-lover,  as 


PROVENCE. 

CABBAGE. 


- 


Moss. 
COMMON. 


SUMMER-FLOWERING  ROSES  39 

unsurpassed  in  fragrance  and  colour.  Its  pure  white 
variety,  the  Rose  Unique,  discovered  in  a  garden  in 
Suffolk,  in  1777,  is  far  less  common  and  less  vigorous 
than  the  pink  Cabbage  rose.  But  if  it  can  be  induced 
to  grow  it  is  a  very  beautiful  object  in  the  summer 
garden,  especially  as  a  standard  on  the  briar.  The 
tiny  Rose  de  Meaux  and  Spong  are  also  miniature 
Provence  roses — and  as  I  have  said,  ought  to  be  more 
widely  grown  in  English  gardens. 

THE  Moss  ROSE,  R.  Muscosa, 

originally  a  sport  from  the  common  Provence  or 
Cabbage  rose,  was  also  introduced  into  England  from 
Holland  in  1596 ;  and  many  varieties  have  since 
been  derived  from  it,  some  of  the  newer  ones  having 
the  additional  merit  of  being  perpetual  flowering. 
The  best  are  the  common  Pink  Moss,  Comtesse 
Murinais,  Celina,  Crested,  Gloire  des  Mousseuses, 
Laneii,  White  Bath ;  while  there  is  a  delightful  little 
pink,  mossed  Rose  de  Meaux.  Of  the  perpetuals, 
Blanche  Moreau,  Salet,  Perpetual  White  Moss,  and 
Mme.  Wm.  Paul  are  all  good. 

The  Old  Double  Yellow  Provence,  Rosa  Hemi- 
sphcerica  or  Sulphurea  is  somewhat  rare  now,  and 
only  found  in  one  or  two  modern  catalogues  or  in 
very  old  gardens. 

THE  FKENCH  ROSE,  R.  Gallica,  also  called 

Rose  de  Provins, 
as  its  name  implies,  is  a  native  of  France ;    but 


40  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

it  is  also  found  in  Italy,  Switzerland  and  Austria. 
A  good  deal  of  confusion  reigns  on  the  subject  of  this 
rose  and  R.  Damascena;  for  varieties  of  both  are 
often  misplaced  in  each  other's  classes.  For  instance, 
the  common  red  Gallica,  the  "  Apothecary's  rose,"  is 
usually  called  the  Red  Damask,  and  its  many  striped 
varieties,  especially  Rosa  Mundi,  are  mistaken  for  the 
true  York  and  Lancaster,  which  is  a  true  Damask 
rose. 

Rosa  Gallica,  however,  is  easily  distinguished  from 
Damascena.  Its  flowering  shoots  are  upright,  with 
few  prickles,  and  rigid  leaves.  It  seeds  very  freely  ; 
and  this  accounts  for  the  innumerable  varieties  which 
were  in  vogue  fifty  or  sixty  years  ago.  It  is  said  that 
one  grower  near  London  had  two  thousand  different 
sorts.  It  is  still  largely  grown  in  England  for  dis- 
tilling purposes,  on  account  of  its  delicious  perfume  ; 
and  a  field  of  the  "  Apothecary's  rose  "  in  full  flower 
is  a  lovely  sight  in  July.  But  the  chief  centre  of  the 
industry  used  to  be  round  Provins,  the  old  capital  of 
La  Brie,  about  sixty  miles  from  Paris,  on  the  way  to 
Chalons.  Here  vast  fields  were  grown,  the  petals 
being  used  not  only  for  scent,  but  for  conserves  and 
medicinal  purposes. 

When  well  grown,  namely  well  fed  and  well  pruned 
by  cutting  out  all  the  weak  wood  and  shortening  back 
the  strong  shoots  to  six  or  seven  eyes,  Rosa  gallica  is 
worthy  of  a  choice  place  as  a  decorative  rose,  whether 
in  the  house  or  on  the  exhibition  bench,  when  the 


GALLICA. 

RED    DAMASK 
(THE    APOTHECARIES     ROSE.) 


CLIMBING    DAMASK. 

MRS.    O.    G.    ORPEN. 


SUMMER-FLOWERING  ROSES  41 

almost  single  flowers  open  and  show  their  brilliant 
golden  stamens.  The  best  sorts  grown  at  present  are 
(Eillet  Parfait,  Perle  des  Panachees,  Rosa  Mundi, 
Red  Damask  (the  all-red  form  of  this  last),  Village 
Maid,  and  Tuscany. 

THE  DAMASK  ROSE,  R.  Damascena. 

This  rose  was  brought  from  Syria  to  Europe  at  the 
time  of  the  Crusades.  The  true  York  and  Lancaster 
is  the  best  example  of  the  old  Damask  rose,  and  grows 
into  a  vigorous  bush  when  well  established.  Madame 
Hardy,  a  cross  with  the  Cabbage  rose,  is  an  excellent 
pure  white  variety ;  and  in  the  last  few  years  some 
new  and  admirable  Damask  roses,  Lady  Curzon, 
Lady  Sarah  Wilson,  Lady  White,  and  the  Single 
Crimson  Damask,  have  been  raised  by  Mr.  Turner ; 
while  Mr.  Orpen,  of  Colchester,  introduced  the 
beautiful  pink  climber,  Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen,  in 
1906. 

ROSA  ALBA, 

the  white  rose  of  central  Europe,  introduced  into 
England  about  1597,  is  now  too  often  only  to  be 
seen  in  cottagers'  gardens.  But  surely  a  corner 
may  be  found  for  the  Maiden's  Blush,  for  the  fine 
old  Blanche  Belgique,  or  for  Celestial — the  roses  that 
used  to  be  seen  in  our  childhood  with  a  sprig  of 
Southernwood  in  every  village  boy's  buttonhole  on 
Sunday. 


42  KOSES  AND  EOSE  GEOWING 

AUSTRIAN  BRIAR  EOSES,  R.  lutea. 

These  are  among  the  most  brilliant  of  our  early 
summer  roses,  and  are  distinguished  also  by  their 
singular  and  aromatic  scent.  But  their  flowering 
season  is  as  short  as  it  is  vivid. 

The  single  Austrian  Briars,  mentioned  by  John 
Gerard  in  1596,  both  the  Yellow,  and  the  Copper 
known  in  France  as  Ca/pucine,  should  be  found,  if 
possible,  in  every  garden.  But  both  are  of  moderate 
growth ;  and  the  Copper  is  often  troublesome  to  grow, 
showing  itself  as  capricious  as  it  is  attractive.  For 
instance,  I  have  tried  in  vain  for  eight  years  to  make 
it  flourish  in  my  garden,  while  in  a  cottage  garden  by 
the  roadside  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away  it  flowers  so 
profusely  that  during  its  short-lived  season  of  beauty 
the  passers-by  stop  to  gaze  at  its  brilliant  single 
blossoms  of  satiny-yellow  lined  with  vivid  copper  red. 

The  double  yellow  Harrisonii  was  raised  in 
America  in  1830  ;  and  in  1837  Willock  introduced  the 
beautiful  and  fragrant  Persian  Yellow,  which  grows 
so  freely  wherever  it  is  planted. 

All  these  Austrian  briars  have  been  utilized  of  late 
by  the  hybridists  with  most  interesting  results.  In 
1900  the  famous  house  of  Pernet-Ducher,  of  Lyons, 
succeeded  in  developing  a  new  race  of  roses,  which 
they  named  Rosa  Pernetiana,  by  crossing  the 
Persian  Yellow  with  Antoine  Ducher,  a  hybrid 
perpetual.  The  first  of  these  was  Soldi  a"  Or,  a  large, 


QQ     < 


SUMMER-FLOWERING  ROSES  43 

full,  flat  flower,  varying  from  gold  and  orange  yellow 
to  reddish  gold  shaded  with  nasturtium  red.  It  is 
perfectly  hardy,  and  perpetual  flowering.  And  in 
1907  they  added  a  further  seedling,  far  more  amazing 
in  colour,  named  the  Lyon  Rose — offspring  of  a 
cross  between  an  unnamed  seedling  of  Soleil  d'Or 
and  the  hybrid  Tea  Mme.  Melanie  Soupert.  This, 
judging  by  the  reports  of  those  who  have  seen  it, 
is  destined  to  be  a  most  valuable  addition  to  our 
gardens. 

Another  Pernetiana,  Les  Rosati,  has  been  raised 
by  Gravereaux,  from  a  cross  between  Persian  Yellow 
and  a  hybrid  Tea.  It  is  hardy,  prolific,  and  when  I 
saw  it  at  the  end  of  September,  1907,  in  MM.  Soupert 
et  Notting's  ground,  it  was  covered  with  brilliant 
cherry-red  flowers  on  a  yellow  base — the  outside  of 
the  petals  pale  salmon.  Godfried  Keller,  a  cross 
with  Austrian  Copper,  apricot  with  the  outside  of 
the  petals  dark  yellow,  semi-double  and  perpetual, 
and  Parkfeuer,  a  shining  scarlet  hybrid  briar,  are 
both  of  the  same  type. 

LORD  PENZANCE'S  HYBRID  SWEET  BRIARS, 

R.  rubiginosa  Tiybrida. 

These  invaluable  roses,  the  result  of  years  of  careful 
hybridizing  of  the  common  Sweet  Briar,  R.  rubiginosa, 
with  various  old-fashioned  roses,  are  amongst  the 
greatest  gifts  of  last  century  to  the  rosarian,  the 
amateur,  and  the  cottager. 


44  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Lady  Penzance,  one  of  the  most  attractive,  though 
less  hardy  and  vigorous  than  others,  resulted  from  a 
cross  with  the  Austrian  Copper  ;  Lord  Penzance  from 
the  Austrian  Yellow.  This  last  is  extraordinarily 
fragrant,  the  scent  of  the  leaves  after  rain  filling  the 
air  to  a  considerable  distance.  The  rather  small 
flowers  of  both  these  show  their  parentage  very  clearly 
in  colour.  But  for  size  of  blossom  and  effect,  none  of 
the  fourteen  varieties  equal  the  bright  pink  and  white 
Flora  Mclvor,  the  crimson  Meg  Merrilies,  and  the 
superb  dark  crimson  Anne  of  Geirstein.  This  last  is 
a  plant  of  extraordinary  vigour,  forming  in  a  few 
years  huge  bushes  ten  feet  high  and  nearly  as  many 
through.  For  a  high  rose  hedge  or  screen  these 
hybrid  sweet  briars  are  invaluable,  while  they  may 
be  also  used  for  pillars  and  arches.  And,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Lord  and  Lady  Penzance,  which  are  of  more 
moderate  growth,  they  are  easy  to  propagate,  growing 
readily  from  cuttings,  which,  if  put  in  early  in  the 
autumn  are  in  flower  the  next  summer.  The  foliage 
of  the  common  Sweet  Briar,  however,  remains  the 
most  fragrant  of  all,  with  a  clean,  wholesome 
sweetness  that  is  unsurpassed  by  its  more  showy 
children,  always  excepting  Lord  Penzance,  which,  if 
possible,  excels  it.  Therefore  let  no  one  discard  the 
old  friend,  and  let  them  plant  it  beside  a  walk,  so  that 
they  may  give  it  a  friendly  pinch  as  they  pass,  to  be 
rewarded  by  its  delicious  scent. 


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SCOTS  BRIAR. 

STANWELL    PERPETUAL. 


SUMMER-FLOWERING   ROSES  45 

THE  SCOTCH  BRIAR,  R.  spinossima, 

is  a  most  fragrant  little  rose,  its  compact  bushes 
forming  an  excellent  hedge  round  a  rose  garden, 
covered  so  closely  with  the  sweet  little  double,  globu- 
lar flowers  that  the  tiny  leaves  are  almost  hidden  by 
the  mass  of  blossom.  They  can  be  had  in  yellow, 
white,  or  many  shades  of  pink.  But  none  are  prettier 
than  the  common  rose-pink.  The  yellow  is  a  hybrid — 
raised  in  France  early  in  the  nineteenth  century. 

The  Stanwell  Perpetual  is  a  Scotch  briar,  hybrid- 
ized most  probably  with  the  Damask  Perpetual  or 
some  such  rose,  flesh-coloured  and  flowering  from 
May  till  the  autumn. 

ROSA  RUGOSA,  THE   RAMANAS  ROSE   OF  JAPAN, 

was  introduced  into  England  in  1784.  But  this  fact 
may,  I  imagine,  be  as  great  a  surprise  to  some  of  my 
readers  as  it  was  to  myself,  when  I  discovered  the 
statement  on  unimpeachable  authority  an  hour  ago. 
I  well  remember  the  first  plants  of  the  common 
pinkish-red  variety,  which  I  first  saw  in  1876.  It 
was  then  considered  something  of  a  novelty  ;  and  I 
recollect  how  we  all  began  cultivating  it  in  our  gar- 
dens, and  that  we  were  enraptured,  as  were  the 
blackbirds  and  thrushes,  by  its  large,  handsome  bright 
scarlet  fruit  in  the  autumn. 

The  varieties  in  cultivation  in  those  days  were  alba 
the  single  white,  introduced  in  1784  by  Thunberg,  a 


46  ROSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

very  lovely  flower ;  and  rubra,  the  single  pinkish-red 
(Gels.  1802).  The  hybridists  began  work  upon  these 
some  twenty  years  ago.  Paul  and  Son  brought  out 
America  in  1895  ;  and  the  fine  Atropurpurea  in 
1900,  one  of  the  very  best  singles,  deep  glowing 
crimson  with  brilliant  golden  stamens  when  opening  at 
sunrise,  and  turning  purple  later  in  the  day.  Double 
hybrids  were  also  raised,  the  charming  white  Mme. 
Georges  Bruant,  1888  ;  Blanc  double  de  Coubert, 
1892;  Belle  Poitevin,  1895,  rose-coloured  and  very 
fragrant ;  and  the  handsome  Rose  d  parfum  de 
I1  Hay,  1904,  carmine  cerise  and  deliciously  scented. 
Fimbriata,  1891,  semi-double,  white  tinted  blush, 
the  edge  of  the  petals  fringed  like  a  dianthus,  is 
perhaps  the  prettiest  of  all,  and  is  specially  suited  for 
growing  as  an  isolated  bush. 

But  of  all  the  hybrids  none  can  be  compared  to 
the  superb  Conrad  Ferdinand  Meyer  (Miiller,  1900). 
This  last  is  said  to  be  crossed  with  Gloire  de  Dijon. 
It  certainly  possesses  just  the  same  rich  fragrance  as 
that  invaluable  rose,  while  its  beautiful  colour,  a 
warm  tender  pink,  its  large  size  and  perfect  form,  its 
more  than  vigorous  growth,  and  its  persistence  in 
blooming — I  have  it  in  flower  here  from  the  middle 
of  May  till  December — render  it  one  of  the  most 
valuable  additions  to  the  rose  garden  of  the  new 
century. 

Besides  these  there  are  numbers  of  other  varieties, 
as  the  continental  growers,  such  as  Bruant,  Cochet, 


RUGOSA. 

CONRAD    FERDINAND    MEYER. 


SUMMER-FLOWERING  ROSES  47 

Gravereaux,  Schwartz,  etc.,  have  paid  considerable 
attention  to  these  roses  of  late  years.  But  the  future 
of  this  race  is  bound  to  be  a  very  important  one,  and 
so  far  we  have  not  in  the  least  realized  what  its  effect 
may  be. 

PROVENCE  ROSES,  R.  Centifolia. 
Cabbage,  or  Common  Provence,  1596.     Rosy  pink. 
Crested.      Vibert,  1827.     Rosy  pink,  pale  edges. 
Unique,  or  White  Provence.    Grimwood,  1777.    Paper 

white. 
Sulphurea,   or   the   Old  Yellow    Provence.     Golden 

yellow. 

Miniature  Provence  Roses. 
De  Meaux,  1814.     Rosy  lilac. 
Spong.     Blush  pink. 
White  de  Meaux.     White. 

Moss  ROSES,  R.  Centifolia  muscosa. 
(Summer  flowering.) 

Baron     de     Wassenaer.    V.    Verdier,    1854.     Light 

crimson,  in  clusters. 
Common.    Holland,  1596.     Pale  rose. 
Comtesse  de  Murinais.     Vibert,  1827.     White,  large 

and  double. 

Crested.     Vibert,  1827.     Rosy  pink,  paler  edges. 
Crimson  Globe,  Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1891.  Deep  crimson. 
Celina.    Hardy,  1855.     Rich  crimson,  shaded  purple. 
Gloire  des  Moussues.     Robert,    1852.     Rosy   blush, 

large  and  full. 

Laneii.  Laffay,  1846.  Rosy  crimson,  tinted  purple. 
White  Bath.  Salter,  1810.  Paper  white,  large  and 

beautiful. 
Zenobia.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son.     Fine  satin  pink. 


48  EOSES  AND  KOSE   GBOWING 

PERPETUAL  Moss  EOSES. 

Blanche  Moreau.     Moreau  Robert,  1881.    Pure  white. 
James  Veitch.     Violet  shaded. 

Mme.  Edouard  Ory.    Robert,  1856.     Bright  carmine. 
„     Louis   Leveque.      Leveque,   1904.       Colour  of 

Captain  Christy. 
„     Moreau.     Moreau- Robert,     1873.      Vermilion 

red. 
Mrs.  William  Paul.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1870.     Very 

bright  rose. 

Perpetual  White  Moss.     Blooming  in  clusters. 
Salet.     Lacharme,  1854.      Bright  rose,  blush  edges. 

fine. 
Venus.      Welter,  1905.     Fiery  red,  one  of  the  best. 

THE  FRENCH  EOSE,  also  called  "  EOSE  DE  PROVINS," 
R.  Gallica. 

Belle  des  Jardins.      Guillot,   1873.     Bright  purple, 

striped  white. 

Domdtile  Becard.     Flesh,  striped  rose. 
(Billet    Parfait.     Pure    white,    broad    stripes,    rosy 

crimson. 
Perle  des  Panache'es.      Vibert,  1845.     White,  striped 

lilac. 

Eosa  Mundi.     Eed,  striped  white. 
Old  Eed,  the  "  Apothecary's  Eose,"  often  called  "  Eed 

Damask." 
Tuscany.     Deep  claret  red. 

Village  Maid.     White,  striped  rose  or  purple. 

THE  DAMASK  EOSE,  R.  Damascena. 

Kazanlik.     Silver  rose. 

La  Ville  de  Bruxelles.     Light  rose,  blush  margin. 


SUMMER-FLOWERING  ROSES  49 

Lady  Curzon.     Turner,  1902.     Large,  single  pink. 
Lady  Sarah  Wilson.     Turner,  1902.     Semi-double, 

creamy  blush. 
Lady  White.     Turner,    1902.     Semi-double,   white 

tinted  pink. 

Leda,  or  painted  Damask.     Blush,  edged  lake. 
Madame  Hardy.    Hardy,  1832.     White. 

„       Zoetmans.     Creamy  white. 
Mrs.  0.  G.  Orpen.     Orpen,  1906.      Climbing,  large 

single,  in  trusses,  rosy  pink. 
Single  Crimson  Damask.     Turner,  1901. 
York   and    Lancaster   (true).     Red    and    white,    in 

patches. 

THE  WHITE  ROSE,  R.  Alba. 

Blanche  Belgique.     White. 
Celestial.     Flesh  colour,  tinted  delicate  pink. 
Felicite.     Rosy  flesh,  margin  blush. 
Mme.  Audot.     Glossy  flesh. 

„     Legras.     Creamy  white. 
Maiden's  Blush.     Kew,  1797.     Soft  blush. 


AUSTRIAN  BRIAR  ROSES,  R.  lutea. 

Austrian   Copper,  or   Capucine.     J.   Gerard,   1596. 

Single,  petals  lined  copper-red. 
Austrian  Yellow.     J.  Gerard,  1596. 
Harrisonii.     Harrison,  1830.     Golden  yellow. 
Persian  Yellow.    Willock,  1838.    Deep  golden  yellow. 

HYBRIDS. 

Gottfried  Keller.     Dr.  Mutter,  1902.     Semi-double, 

apricot  with  golden  yellow  centre. 
Parkfeuer.     Single,  vivid  scarlet. 
4 


50  EOSES  AND  EOSE  GEOWING 

Soleil  d'Or.     Pernet-Ducher,  1900.     Orange  yellow, 
gold  and  nasturtium  red,  large,  double. 

The  Lyon  Eose.     Pernet-Ducher,  1907.      Coral-red 
tinted  chrome  yellow,  new  and  distinct,  double. 

Les   Eosati.     Gravereaux,    1907.     Bright   carmine, 

yellow  base. 
These  three  last  are  perpetual-flowering,  and  known 

as  Pernetiana  roses. 

SWEET  BRIARS,  R.  rubiginosa. 

Common  Sweet  briar.     Pale  pink. 
Double  Scarlet.     Bright  rosy  red. 
Hebe's  Lip.     White,  with  picotee  edge  of  purple. 
Janet's    Pride.      White,    shaded    and    tipped    with 
crimson. 

LORD  PENZANCE'S  HYBRIDS,  1894,  1895. 

Amy  Eobsart.     Deep  rose. 

Anne  of  Geirstein.     Deep  crimson  rose. 

Catherine  Seyton.     Eosy-pink,  bright  golden  anthers. 

Flora  Mclvor.     Blush  rose,  white  centre. 

Lady  Penzance.     Soft  copper,  base  of  petals  bright 

yellow. 

Lord  Penzance.     Fawn,  passing  to  emerald  yellow. 
Lucy  Bertram.     Eich  crimson,  pure  white  centre. 
Meg  Merrilies.     Deep  brilliant  crimson. 

SCOTCH  BRIAR  EOSES,  R.  spinossima. 

Shades  of  pink,  rose,  crimson,  white,  yellow. 
Pimpinellifolia.     Blush. 
Stanwell  Perpetual.     Semi-double  rosy  blush. 

EUGOSA  OR  EAMANAS  EOSES,  R.  rugosa. 

America.     Paul  &  Son,  1895.     Crimson  lake. 
Atropurpurea.     Paul  &  Son,  1899,     Deep  crimson, 
turning  maroon, 


SUMMER-FLOWEKING  ROSES  51 

Belle  Poitevin.     Bruant,  1896.     Rose,  double,  very 
sweet. 

*  Blanc   double   de   Coubert.     Cochet- Cachet,    1894. 

Double  white. 

Calocarpa.     Sruant,  1896.     Rose,  single,  fine  tinted 
autumn  foliage. 

*  Conrad   F.  Meyer.     Froebel,  1900.     Clear  silvery 

rose,  double,  large,  very  fragrant. 

^Delicata.     Cooling,  189 8.     Soft  rose,  double. 

Madame  C.  F.  Worth.     Schwartz,  1890.     rosy  car- 
mine, semi-double. 

*  Madame   Georges   Bruant.     JBruant,   1888.     Clear 

white,  nearly  double. 
Madame    Henri    Gravereaux.      Gravereaux,    1905. 

White,  salmon  centre. 
Mrs.    Anthony    Waterer.      Water er,    1898.     Deep 

crimson,  semi-double,  large  clusters. 
*Nova  Zembla.     Mees,    1907.      White   sport  from 

Conrad  Meyer,  fine. 
Repens  Alba.     Paul  &  Son,  1903.     Weeping  form 

of  Alba. 
^Rose    a    parfum    de    1'Hay.      Gravereaux,    1904. 

Carmine  cerise,  double,  fine. 

Rugosa  alba.     Thunberg,  1784.     Single,  pure  white. 
Rugosa  rubra.     Cels,  1802.     Pinkish  red. 
Rugosa  rubra,  fl.  pi.     Regel.     Purple  red. 
*Rose  Apples.     Paul  &  Son,  1896.     Pale   carmine 

rose,  large  clusters. 

*  Perpetual  flowering. 


CHAPTEE  IV 

CLIMBING  ROSES — SUMMER   FLOWERING 

MANY  are  the  races  to  which  our  summer  gardens 
owe  an  almost  endless  variety  of  climbing  roses  ;  and 
each  season  adds  to  the  bewildering  number.  The 
older  types  are  the  Ayrshire,  the  Evergreen,  the 
Banksia,  the  Boursault,  the  Prairie  rose,  the  Multi- 
flora.  And  twenty-one  years  ago,  the  Wichuraiana 
from  Japan  was  introduced,  adding  a  totally  new 
source  from  whence  to  derive  precious  and  beautiful 
hybrids. 

THE  AYRSHIRE  KOSE 

originated  without  doubt  from  the  trailing  white  rose 
of  our  hedges  and  woodlands,  Rosa  arvensis.  In 
the  early  years  of  last  century  many  popular  varieties 
were  developed  which  are  still  welcome  in  our  gardens, 
such  as  Alice  Gray,  Dundee  Rambler,  Ruga, 
Queen  of  the  Belgians,  Splendens  or  Myrrh-scented. 
And  in  1835,  the  charming  little  double  white  rose, 
Bennett's  Seedling  or  Thoresbyana,  was  discovered 
among  some  briars  by  Lord  Manvers'  gardener  at 

Thoresby. 

52 


AYRSHIRE 

RUGA. 


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CLIMBING  EOSES  53 

THE  EVERGREEN  EOSE. 

The  parent  of  the  Evergreen  roses  of  our  gardens  was 
the  climbing  wild  rose  of  Italy,  Rosa  Sempervirens. 
And  the  best  known,  and  perhaps  the  most  valuable 
of  these,  is  the  white  Felicite  et  Perpetue,  named 
after  the  saints  and  martyrs  Felicitas  and  Perpetua. 
This  rose  and  several  other  varieties  were  raised  in 
1827  by  Monsieur  Jacques,  the  head-gardener  at  the 
royal  gardens  of  Neuilly.  They  bloom  in  large  clus- 
ters of  small,  very  full,  double  flowers.  Myrianthes 
renoncule,  Leopoldine  d' Orleans,  and  Banksiceflora 
are  white ;  Princesse  Marie  and  Flora  are  pink,  as 
is  Williams'  Evergreen.  As  all  these  keep  their 
dark  shining  foliage  until  nearly  the  end  of  the 
winter,  they  are  very  valuable  on  screens  and 
arches. 

THE  BANKSIAN  EOSE,  R.  Banksia. 

This  persistent  foliage  is  one  of  the  great  merits  of 
the  large  white  Banksian  Fortunei,  called  in  French 
catalogues  Banks  de  Chine — a  hybrid  with  the 
beautiful  Rosa  Siniea.  Its  handsome  green  leaves, 
as  I  write  in  mid-February,  are  as  thick  outside  my 
window  in  spite  of  twenty  degrees  of  frost  a  few 
weeks  back,  as  they  were  in  the  autumn.  It  will 
throw  shoots  of  immense  length  each  year :  clothing 
a  wall  summer  and  winter  with  its  rich  green  foliage. 
It  is  much  hardier  than  .the  Yellow  and  White 
Banksians.  The  flowers,  large,  full,  white,  and  sweet- 


54  ROSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

scented,  grow  singly,  not  in  clusters,  and  are  borne 
like  those  of  the  Yellow  and  White  Banksians  on  the 
sub-laterals — i.e.  the  little  flowering  stems  on  the 
laterals  of  last  year.  This  habit  of  growth  is  the 
reason  of  so  many  failures  in  getting  the  Banksian 
roses  to  flower.  An  old  plant  of  the  Yellow  Banksian 
on  the  rectory  at  Strathfieldsaye  had  never  been 
known  to  flower  when  the  Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts  came 
there.  He,  of  course,  discovered  that  it  had  been 
pruned  hard  in  the  usual  way.  And  after  proper 
attention  for  two  years,  it  was  last  year  a  mass  of 
bloom,  to  the  surprise  of  all  who  saw  it.1 

The  White  Banksian  was  introduced  by  Mr.  William 
Kerr  in  1807,  and  named  after  Lady  Banks.  The 
yellow  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Abel,  in  1824,  growing 
on  the  walls  of  Nankin.  They  are  both  natives  of 
China :  but  require  a  warm  position  on  a  wall  in 
most  parts  of  England.  The  finest  specimen  I  have 
ever  seen  was  a  very  old  plant  of  the  yellow,  growing 
some  years  ago  inside  the  courtyard  at  Chillon.  It 
was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  objects  possible  in 
summer,  the  grim  walls  being  closely  covered  with 
a  sheet  of  the  delicate  little  blossoms. 

ROSA  SINICA,  or  L^VIGATA, 

mentioned  above,  also  known  as  the  "  Cherokee 
Rose"  is  a  single  white  with  yellow  stamens,  from 
China.  It  is  a  very  beautiful  species ;  but  requires, 

1  See  pruning,  p.  26. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  55 

like  the  Banksians,  the  shelter  of  a  wall.  Sinica 
anemone  (Schmidt,  1895),  silvery- pink  shaded  rose, 
is  very  vigorous,  and  more  hardy,  one  of  the  best 
single  climbing  roses.  This  latter  rose  must  not 
be  confused  with  Anemonceflora — a  cross  between 
JBanksia  and  Multiflora — with  small  double  white 
anemone-like  flowers. 

THE  BOURSAULT  ROSES,  R.  Alpina, 

are  hardy,  vigorous  climbers,  flowering  in  large  clus- 
ters. They  were  raised  from  the  single  red  Alpine 
rose.  This,  by  the  way,  might  be  more  generally 
cultivated  for  its  own  sake  ;  its  smooth  red  stems  and 
handsome  reddish  foliage,  which  turns  a  fine  colour  in 
autumn,  and  its  single  deep  pink  flowers  with  long 
green  bracts,  succeeded  by  small  brilliant  hips,  make 
it  a  charming  object  both  in  summer  and  autumn. 
M.  Boursault,  a  famous  Parisian  rose  amateur,  gave 
his  name  to  the  group,  the  first  variety,  a  double 
red,  being  called  after  him.  Amadis,  or  Crimson, 
is  one  of  the  oldest,  a  deep  crimson  purple  ;  while 
Inermis  Morletti,  an  improved  Inermis,  was  intro- 
duced in  1883  by  Morlet. 

ROSA  SETIGERA,  THE  BRAMBLE-LEAVED  OR 

PRAIRIE  ROSE, 

was  the  parent  of  several  useful  climbers  raised  by 
Feast,  of  Baltimore,  and  introduced  into  England  in 
1803.  Of  these  Belle  of  Baltimore  and  Queen  of 


56  KOSES  AND   KOSE  GROWING 

the  Prairies  are  the  best,  flowering  late  in  the 
summer. 

THE  HUNGARIAN  CLIMBING  KOSES 

appear  to  be  very  little  known  in  England.  But 
they  are  well  worth  growing,  especially  in  cold 
and  exposed  places,  as  they  are  thoroughly  frost- 
proof. The  blossoms  are  large,  very  full,  and 
mostly  flat  in  form.  Decoration  de  Geschwind, 
rich  purple-pink  with  white  edges,  is  a  handsome  and 
effective  flower.  So  are  Gilda,  wine  colour,  shaded 
with  violet,  and  Chdteau  Luegg,  deep  carmine  pink. 
To  what  family  they  are  allied  I  do  not  know.  They 
were  raised  by  Geschwind  about  1886.  I  got  them 
from  M.  Bernaix  of  Lyons,  and  am  greatly  pleased 
with  them. 

HYBRIDS  OF  CHINA,  BOURBON,  AND  NOISETTE 
EOSES. 

This  very  beautiful  class  of  summer-flowering 
climbing  or  pillar  roses,  is  too  often  neglected  in 
these  days.  They  are  the  result  of  crosses  between 
the  Gallica,  Centifolia,  and  Damask  roses,  and  the 
China,  Noisette  and  Bourbon.  For  size,  form  and 
colour,  many  of  these  roses  are  still  unexcelled.  And 
one  regrets  they  are  not  more  generally  grown. 

Whether  the  seed  parent  is  the  perpetual  China, 
Bourbon,  or  Noisette,  and  the  pollen  parent  the  French 
or  Proven§e  rose,  or  vice  versd,  the  result  is  that, 


CLIMBING  EOSES  57 

though  it  grows  vigorously,  the  hybrid  does  not 
flower  in  the  autumn — with  the  one  exception,  the 
beautiful  Gloire  de  Rosamenes.  One  of  the  grandest 
of  this  class  is  Blairii  No.  2  (Blair  1845),  blush  with 
rose  centre,  a  very  vigorous  climber :  but  it  should  be 
remembered  that  if  pruned  it  will  not  flower.  This 
is  also  the  case  with  the  fine  crimson  Brennus  or 
Brutus.  Coupe  d'Hebe  and  Chenedole  are  both  good 
roses ;  while  Charles  Lawson  for  a  brilliant  crimson 
pillar  rose,  and  the  pure  white  Madame  Plantier  for 
bush  or  pillar,  are  not  easily  surpassed,  as  their  flowers 
are  borne  in  immense  quantities.  That  very  brilliant 
and  effective  single  rose,  Paul's  Carmine  Pillar,  is 
also  a  hybrid  ;  but  its  exact  parentage  is  not  known. 
Messrs.  Paul  &  Son,  of  Cheshunt,  write  to  me  :  "  We 
believe  it  to  be,  as  far  as  we  can  recollect,  a  hybrid 
with  Boursault  blood."  This  would  explain  its  coming 
into  flower  so  early. 

THE  CLIMBING  MULTIFLORA  OR  POLYANTHA  EOSES, 

and  their  hybrids,  commonly  known  as  "Bambler 
roses,"  have  developed  of  late  years  in  such  amazing 
numbers,  that  it  is  a  work  of  some  difficulty  to  keep 
pace  with  the  new  varieties  which  appear  each  season. 
The  original  Multiflora,  known  also  as  Polyaniha 
simplex,  was  introduced  from  Japan  in  1781  by 
Thunberg.  It  is  a  very  vigorous  climber  with  large 
bunches  of  small,  single  white  flowers.  From  this 
type  rose,  which  seeds  very  freely,  numbers  of  hybrids 


58  KOSES  AND   EOSE  GKOWING 

were  raised  in  Italy  early  in  the  nineteenth  century, 
by  crossings  with  other  richly  coloured  roses.  One  of 
the  earliest  of  these  hybrids  which  still  remains  is 
Laure  Davoust,  with  small  and  very  double  flowers 
— pink  changing  to  blush.  Grevillia  or  the  Seven 
Sisters  is  another,  its  flowers  changing  from  crimson 
to  purplish  rose,  and  then  to  pale  rose.  This  pro- 
duces a  most  quaint  effect,  as  we  have  flowers  of 
three  colours  on  the  plant  at  once.  De  la  Ghijferaie, 
1845,  is  also  deep  rose,  changing  to  blush. 

It  was,  however,  in  1893  that  an  extraordinary 
impulse  was  given  to  the  culture  of  these  roses,  by  the 
introduction  of  Turner's  Crimson  Rambler.  Two 
roses  which  are  now  classed  among  the  "  Eamblers  " 
preceded  it  by  a  few  years ;  Allard's  Daniel  Lacombe, 
1886,  and  the  beautiful  Claire  Jacquier,  1888,  raised 
by  Bernaix  of  Lyons.  But  the  advent  of  Crimson 
Rambler  is  really  the  starting  point  of  that  en- 
thusiasm which  has  reigned  ever  since  1893  for  the 
Eambler  roses,  and  which  has  happily  brought  many 
of  the  old  varieties  mentioned  above  into  favour 
once  more.  As  many  versions  of  the  advent  of  this 
rose  are  extant,  I  wrote  to  Mr.  Charles  Turner  to  ask 
him  its  true  history,  and  in  his  kind  reply  of  Feb- 
ruary 17,  1908,  he  says,  "  The  rose  was  brought  from 
Japan  with  other  plants  by  an  engineer  on  board  a 
trading  vessel  for  a  gentleman  living  near  Edinburgh. 
It  was  grown  there  for  some  time,  and  eventually 
came  into  our  possession/' 


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CLIMBING  POLYANTHA. 

BLUSH    RAMBLER. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  59 

This  rose  is  so  well  known  that,  like  good  wine,  it 
needs  no  bush  of  praise  or  description.  And  it  was 
quickly  followed  by  other  Multifloras  of  varying 
types.  In  1896  came  Lambert's  trio  JEuphrosyne, 
the  so-called  Pink  rambler,  Thalia,  the  White  rambler, 
and  Aglaia,  the  Yellow  rambler  ;  succeeded  in  1897 
by  his  IKMne,  pale  rose  with  yellowish  white  centre. 
In  1898  Dawson  brought  out  the  Dawson  rose,  with 
clusters  of  semi-double  soft-rose  flowers.  In  1899 
came  two  notable  additions — Paul  &  Son's  Psyche ; 
and  Schmidt's  Leuchstern — one  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  race.  The  latter  grower's  invaluable  Rubin; 
Veitch's  Electro, ;  Paul  &  Son's  Lion  followed  in 
1900;  and  their  Wallflower  in  1901. 

In  1903,  Wm.  Paul  &  Son  brought  out  Waltham 
Rambler ;  B.  R.  Cant,  the  exquisite  Blush  Rambler ; 
and  Walsh  of  Philadelphia  the  Philadelphia  Rambler. 
In  1904  came  Lambert's  Gruss  an  Zabern  and  Trier. 
In  1905  Cutbush's  Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight,  considered  by 
some  the  Queen  of  ramblers.  And  in  1906  Weigand's 
Taunusblumchen ;  and  Soupert  et  Notting' s  beautiful 
Stella.  Last  year  a  rich  feast  was  provided  for  those 
who  delight  in  Ramblers,  with  Soupert  et  Notting's 
fine  new  Bar-le-Duc,  offspring  of  their  famous  tea  rose 
Souv.  de  Pierre  Notting  and  Crimson  Rambler; 
Schmidt's  Tausendschon,  a  cross  between  Crimson 
Rambler  and  a  tea-polyantha ;  and  Wm.  Paul  &  Son's 
Kathleen,  a  single  flower,  rich  carmine-rose  with  a 
white  eye.  And  this  year  Soupert  et  Notting  are 


60  KOSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 

sending  out  their  new  Bordeaux,  a  seedling  from 
Crimson  Rambler  and  the  dwarf  Polyantha  Blanche 
RebateL 

Meanwhile,  in  1887,  the  parents  of  a  new  race  of 
climbing  roses  had  been  brought  to  Europe.  The 
Wichuraiana  (Species)  was  introduced  from  Japan 
by  Crepin,  in  1887.  Its  small  white  single  flowers 
with  their  quaint  hay  scent,  borne  late  in  the  summer, 
its  glossy  evergreen  leaves,  and  its  vigorous  creeping 
habit — for  it  will  cover  a  large  space  on  a  bank  in 
twelve  months — proclaimed  a  new  and  valuable 
species.  And  in  America,  Manda  was  quick  to  see 
its  value  as  the  parent  of  a  new  race,  by  crossing  it 
with  tea  roses.  Ten  years  later,  in  1897,  he  brought 
out  Manda! s  Triumph ;  in  1899,  the  charming  Gar- 
denia, Jersey  Beauty,  May  Queen,  Pink  Roamer, 
South  Orange  Perfection,  Universal  Favourite ;  and 
in  1900,  Evergreen  Gem,  one  of  the  very  best. 
The  next  year  Jackson  and  Perkins  introduced 
the  incomparable  Dorothy  Perkins.  And  Walsh, 
another  American  grower,  followed  in  1902  with 
Debutante,  and  in  1905  with  Hiawatha  and  Lady 
Gay. 

Meanwhile  in  France,  M.  Barbier  had  been 
devoting  himself  to  these  charming  hybrids ;  and 
began  his  long  list  of  beautiful  varieties  in  1900 
with  Alberic  Barbier,  Rene  Andre,  and  the  single 
Wichuraiana  rubra\  to  be  followed  by  numbers  of 
others. 


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CLIMBING  ROSES  61 

One  of  the  charms  of  these  roses,  and  they  have 
many,  is  that  they  are  to  all  intents  and  purposes 
evergreen.  Another  is,  that  although  they  are  not 
perpetual,  i.  e.  flowering  twice  in  the  season,  the 
hybrids  often  take  after  their  parent  the  type 
Wichuraiana,  whose  flowering  season  is  very  late — 
last  autumn  I  gathered  a  few  flowers  from  it  the 
third  week  in  December.  Therefore,  many  of  them 
come  into  bloom  just  as  the  Multifloras  are  going 
over,  thus  prolonging  the  season  of  summer  climbing 
roses  till  the  end  of  August. 

For  every  purpose  they  are  of  use.  They  may  be 
planted  to  cover  an  unsightly  bit  of  bank,  or  to  climb 
over  a  stump,  to  wreath  themselves  into  the  branches 
of  a  tree,  or  to  form  a  dense  covering  of  shining  leaves 
and  innumerable  flowers  on  fence  or  trellis  or  screen. 
They  are  even  more  charming  on  pillars  and  arches, 
when  the  full  beauty  of  their  blossoms  can  be  seen 
from  all  sides  ;  for  while  many  have  a  pendant  habit, 
the  main  flower  heads,  of  Dorothy  Perkins  for  in- 
stance, are  carried  erect  above  the  pink  foam  of 
the  laterals  that  clothe  the  graceful  hanging  shoots 
below. 

A  Wichuraiana  hybrid — for  choice  the  dainty 
rubra,  Dorothy  Perkins  or  Hiawatha — grown  as  a 
tall,  weeping  standard  seven  feet  high,  is  an  object  of 
such  beauty  that  if  once  seen  it  cannot  be  forgotten. 
Or  these  charming  roses  may  be  trained  round  a  large 
balloon,  in  the  same  fashion  as  the  Crimson  Rambler 


62          KOSES  AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

in  the  Eoyal  Gardens  at  Windsor,  figured  in  "The 
Garden,"  December  30,  1905. 

Planted  on  a  terraced  slope  the  Wichuraianas  are 
most  effective.  In  one  instance,  Gardenia,  Evergreen 
Gem,  Alberic  Barbier  and  others  were  planted  along 
a  steep  grass  bank  below  a  terrace  walk.  A  flat  shelf 
four  feet  wide  had  been  cut  half  way  down  the  bank, 
and  there  the  roses  were  put  in  some  ten  or  twelve 
feet  apart.  By  the  next  summer  they  had  joined 
hands  ;  and  whether  from  below,  or  looking  down  on 
them  from  the  terrace  above,  the  huge  wreath  with 
masses  of  flowers  among  the  glossy  foliage  made  a 
most  exquisite  display. 

In  fact  there  is  no  limit  to  the  uses  to  which  this 
delightful  family  may  be  put.  And  we  may  believe 
that  there  is  no  limit  either  to  its  future  developments 
in  the  hands  of  the  hybridists,  whose  patient  research 
will,  I  have  no  doubt,  give  us  before  many  years  are 
over,  perpetual  flowering,  evergreen  Wichuraianas  of 
every  hue. 

AYRSHIRE  EOSES,  R.  Arvensis. 

Alice  Gray.     White  edged  pink. 

Bennett's  Seedling  or  Thoresbyana.     Bennett,   1835. 

Double  White. 

Dundee  Rambler.     White,  semi- double. 
Queen  of  the  Belgians.     Creamy  white,  large,  double. 
Euga.     Pale  flesh,  large,  double. 
Eepens  flore  pleno.     White,  very  abundant  bloomer. 
Splendens,   or  myrrh-scented.      Flesh   colour,    large, 

double. 


WlCHURIANA 

JERSEY    BEAUTY. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  63 

EVEEGKEEN  ROSES,  R.  Sempervirens. 

Banksiaeflora.     White,  centre  pale  yellow. 

Felicite  et  Perp^tue.    Jacques,  1827.    Creamy  white, 

full. 

Flora.     Eosy  flesh,  full. 
Leopoldine    d'Orleans.       Jacques.       White,    tipped 

red. 

Myrianthes  renoncule.     Blush  edged  rose. 
Princesse  Marie.     Jacques.     Clear  pink. 
Williams'    Evergreen.      Williams,    1855.     Yellowish 

white,  pink  centre. 

BANKSIAN  ROSES,  R.  BanksicB. 

Alba.     Kerr,  1807.     Small  double  white. 

Lutea.      Royal   Horticultural    Soc.    1824.      Small 

double  yellow. 
Fortunei.     (Hybrid)  white,  large  double  flowers. 

SINICA  ROSES,  R.  Sinica  or  Lcevigata. 

Sinica  (Species).     The  Cherokee  rose.     Single  white, 

yellow  stamens. 
Sinica  Anemone.     F.  Schmidt,  1895.     Single,  silvery 

pink,  shaded  rose. 

BOURSAULT  ROSES,  R.  Alpina. 

Amadis.     Deep  purple  crimson. 

Blush  or  Boursault  Florida.     Blush,  large  semi-single. 

Elegans.     Vivid  crimson. 

Gracilis.     1796.     Bright,  rosy  red. 

Inermis  or  Boursault  pleine.     Bright  red. 

Inermis  Morletti.    Morlet,  1883.     Light,  rosy  pink. 


64          EOSES  AND  KOSE  GEOWING 

THE  BRAMBLE-LEAVED  OR  PRAIRIE  EOSE,  Rosa 
Setigera. 

Belle   of  Baltimore.      Feast,    1803.     White,   shaded 

yellow. 
Queen  of  the  Prairies.     Feast,  1803.     Pink,  very  full. 

HYBRID  MUSK,  Summer  flowering. 

Madame  d'Arblay.     Flesh,  changing  to  white. 
The  Garland.     Blush,  changing  to  white. 

HUNGARIAN  CLIMBING  EOSES. 

Aurelia  Liffa.     Scarlet  crimson. 

Chateau  Leugg.     Deep  carmine  pink. 

Decoration  de   Geschwind.     Deep  violet  red,  white 

edges. 

Gilda.     Dark  wine  colour,  shaded  violet. 
Mercedes.     Carmine,  lilac,  pink. 
Meteor.     Carmine  red,  bright  shading. 
Souvenir  de  Brood.     Flat  shape,  full,  purple  or  violet. 

HYBRID  CHINA  AND  BOURBON. 

Acidalie.     Rousseau,  1838.     White. 

Blairii,  No.  2.     Blair,  1845.     Blush  pink,  rose  centre. 

Brennus  or  Brutus.     Deep  carmine. 

Charles    Lawson.       Lawson,    1853.       Very    bright 

crimson. 

Chenedole'.     Light  vivid  crimson. 
Coupe  d'Hebe.     Laffay,  1840.     Vivid  rose,  shaded. 
Fulgens.     Bright  crimson. 
Madame  Plantier.     Pure  white,  very  fine. 
Paul  Eicaut.     Portemer,  1845.     Brilliant  carmine. 
Paul's  Carmine  Pillar.      Paul  &  Son,  1896.      Large 

single  carmine. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  65 

POLYANTHA,   RAMBLER   ROSES,  R.  Multiflora. 

Aglaia.  Lambert,  1896.  Trusses  of  canary  yellow. 
Bar  le  Due.  Soupert  et  Netting,  1907.  Clear  brick 

red,  reverse  of  petals  bright  copper. 
Blush  Rambler.     B.  R.  Cant,  1903.     Large  clusters 

of  soft  blush  flowers. 
Bordeaux.     Soupert  etNotting,  1908.     Claret  colour, 

very  fine. 

Claire  Jacquier.  Bernaix,  1888.  Nankeen  yellow. 
Crimson  Rambler.  Turner,  1893.  Bright  crimson. 
Crimson  Rambler  ne  plus  ultra.  Weigand,  1905. 

Bright,  deep  crimson. 
Daniel   Lacombe.     Allard,   1886.     Chamois  yellow, 

turning  to  white. 
Electra.     Veitch,   1900.     Lemon,  shaded  orange  and 

white. 
Euphrosyne.     Lambert,  1896.      Pinkish  rose,  small 

double  flowers. 
Frau  Lina  Strassheim.     Strassheim,  1907.     Salmon 

red  and  flesh,  very  large  clusters. 
Goldfinch.    Paul  &  Son,  1907.    Deep  golden  buds, 

opening  pale  yellow,  shaded  violet  and  white. 
Gruss  an  Zabern.     Lambert,   1904.     Large  trusses, 

snow  white. 
Helene.     Lambert,  1897.     Pale  mauve  with  yellow 

base. 
Kathleen.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,   1907.     Single,   soft 

carmine-rose,  white  eye. 
Leuchstern.      Schmidt,    1899.      Bright    rose,    large 

white  eye. 

Mrs.  F.  W.  Flight.     Cutbush,  1905.     Bright  pink. 
Philadelphia   Rambler.      Walsh,    1903.     Much   like 

Crimson  Rambler  ;   said  to  be  mildew  proof. 
Psyche.     Paul  &  Son,  1899.     Pale  rosy  pink,  salmon 

yellow  base. 
5 


66  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Queen  Alexandra.      Veitch,  1901.     Rich  rose  colour. 
Rubin.     Schmidt,  1900.     Deep  crimson,  fine  reddish 

foliage. 
Stella.     Soupert  et  Notting.    Vivid  carmine,  stamens 

forming  a  golden  star  on  white  centre. 
Tausendschon.     Schmidt,    1906.     Pink    turning    to 

bright  rose,  sweet-scented. 
Taunusbliimchen.      Weigand,   1906.      Pink  fragrant 

flowers  like  Crimson  Rambler. 
Thalia.     Lambert,  1896.     Small  double  white  flowers 

in  cluster. 

Thalia.     Perpetual  flowering,  pure  white. 
The  Dawson  Rose.     Dawson,  1898.     Pale  rose. 
The  Lion.     Paul  &  Son,  1900.     Single  flowers,  vivid 

crimson. 

Trier.    Lambert,  1904.     Creamy  white. 
Wallflower.     Paul    &    Son,    1901.     Light    crimson 

flowers. 

Waltham  Bride.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son.     Pure  white. 
Waltham  Rambler.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son.     Single,  rosy 

pink,  pale  centre. 

WlCHURAIANA   ROSES. 

Alberic  Barbier.     Barbier,    1901.      Creamy  white, 

canary  centre,  tea  scent. 
Auguste  Barbier.     Barbier,  1901.     Violet  lilac,  white 

centre. 
Debutante.     Walsh,  1902.     Large  clusters,  soft  pink, 

very  fragrant. 
Dorothy  Perkins.    Jackson  &  Perkins,  1901.     Bright 

rose  pink,  large  clusters. 
Edmond    Proust.      Barbier,     1903.      Pink,     centre 

shaded  carmine. 
Elisa  Robichon.     Barbier,  1903.     Salmon  buff,  base 

of  petals  yellow. 


CLIMBING  EOSES  67 

Evangeline.       Walsh,   1906.      Large   single  flowers, 

white,  tipped  pink. 
Evergreen  Gem.      Manda,  1900.      Buff  changing  to 

white,  double. 
Francois  Foucard.     Barbier,  1902.      Yellow,  turning 

creamy  white. 
Gardenia.     Manda,    1899.     Bright   yellow   in   bud, 

changing  to  cream. 
Hiawatha.     Walsh,    1905.     Single,   bright  crimson, 

white  eye. 
Jersey  Beauty.     Manda,  1899.     Single,  pale  yellow, 

bright  yellow  stamens. 
Lady  Gay.      Walsh,   1905.     Deep  rose  pink,  large 

clusters. 
Lady  Godiva.     Paul  &  Son,  1907.     Pale  flesh  pink, 

sport  from  Dorothy  Perkins. 
Manda's    Triumph.      Manda,    1897.      Pure    white, 

double. 

May  Queen.  Manda,  1899.  Coral  red,  large  flowers. 
Minnehaha.  Walsh,  1907.  Satin  pink,  double,  large 

clusters. 

Paradise.     Walsh,  1907.     Single,  pink  and  white. 
Paul    Transon.      Barbier,    1902.      Large    panicles, 

double  rose,  tea  rose  scent. 

Pink  Pearl.  Buds  deep  pink,  changing  to  pearly  pink. 
Pink  Eoamer.  Manda,  1899.  Bright  rose,  white 

eye,  semi-double, 
Bene  Andre.     Barbier,  1901.     Creamy  white,  yellow 

centre,  tea  scented. 
Eubra.      Barbier,  1900.      Single,  bright  red,  white 

centre. 

Euby  Queen.  Brilliant  carmine,  large  clusters,  double. 
South  Orange  Perfection.  Manda,  1899.  Clear  rose. 
The  Farquhar.  Farquhar,  1904.  Pale  rose  turning 

white. 
Universal  Favorite.     Manda,  1899.     Porcelain  rose. 


CHAPTER  V 

CLIMBING   ROSES — AUTUMN   FLOWERING 

WHILE  many  of  the  beautiful  roses  enumerated  in 
the  last  chapter  are  indispensable  in  our  gardens  for 
covering  pillars,  arches,  screens,  walls,  fences  and 
pergolas,  an  end  comes  all  too  soon  to  their  flowering 
season.  And  when  it  comes  we  feel  the  need  of  other 
climbers  to  carry  on  the  succession  of  blossom  until 
the  frosts  cut  all  off.  A  pergola,  for  instance,  planted 
with  nothing  but  summer  flowering  roses,  is  but  a 
sorry  sight  in  August  and  September.  While  if  we 
have  been  wise,  and  have  made  a  judicious  mixture 
of  these  and  perpetual  roses,  it  remains  a  delight  till 
November. 

For  vigorous  climbers  of  this  second  section  none 
excel 

THE  NOISETTE  ROSE,  R.  Noisettiana. 

This  invaluable  race  was  originated  by  M.  Philippe 
Noisette  in  America,  by  fertilizing  the  Musk  rose, 
R.  Moschata,  with  the  Common  Blush  China,  R. 
Indica  (not  the  Blush  Tea  rose,  R.  Indica  Odorata). 
In  1817  he  sent  the  "Blush  Noisette"  to  his 

brother  M.  Louis  Noisette,  a  well-known  nurseryman 

68 


CLIMBING  E08E8  69 

in  Paris.  And  its  advent  was  hailed  with  enthusiasm 
by  all  rose-lovers  in  France;  for  it  was  recognized 
as  a  new  break  in  climbing  roses.  In  this,  and  in 
many  of  the  seedlings  which  were  raised  from  it,  the 
influence  of  its  Musk  rose  parent  was  very  strong, 
the  flowers  being  borne  in  large  clusters,  and  fragrant 
with  its  delicious  musky  scent.  But  as  time  went 
on,  crossings  with  Tea  roses  somewhat  changed  one 
of  the  early  characteristics  of  the  Noisette,  and  it  ap- 
proached more  closely  to  the  Tea  rose — bearing  flowers 
singly— instead  of  in  the  large  clusters  characteristic 
of  the  Musk  rose. 

Aimee  Vibert  (Vibert,  1828)  is  one  of  those  early 
Noisettes  which  holds  its  own  everywhere.  But  how 
seldom  do  we  see  that  most  vigorous  and  most 
fragrant  of  all,  Jaune  Desprez  (Desprez,  1828). 
Grown  against  a  west  wall  here,  it  covered  a  space 
some  20  x  20  feet  in  three  years,  throwing  laterals 
five  feet  and  more  long  every  summer ;  and  from  the 
ends  of  these  in  late  autumn  the  great  heads  of 
bloom  hang  down,  filling  the  whole  air  with  frag- 
grance ;  in  one  cluster  alone  I  have  counted  seventy- 
two  blossoms,  soft  sulphur,  salmon,  and  red.  This 
variety,  and  the  beautiful  white  Lamarque  (Marshal, 
1830),  both  need  the  shelter  of  a  wall  in  a  warm,  dry 
position. 

That  singularly  beautiful  rose  Fortune's  Yellow  or 
Beauty  of  Glazenwood  (Fortune,  1845),  which  is 
classed  among  the  Noisettes,  though  it  has  nothing 


70  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

but  its  beauty  in  common  with  them — for  it  is  not 
perpetual,  and  its  foliage  is  quite  different  from  theirs 
— also  requires  a  very  dry,  warm  situation,  when,  if  it 
is  never  pruned,  it  will  flower  abundantly.  I  have  a 
plant  on  a  very  dry  border  at  the  S.W.  corner  of 
my  house,  which  has  scrambled  up  to  the  eaves 
and  is  now  making  efforts  to  reach  the  chimneys. 
The  reason  that  this  rose  so  often  fails  to  bear 
blossoms  is,  that  being  an  untidy  grower  it  is  pruned. 
And  any  one  who  has  once  tried  to  do  so  should  be 
glad  to  know  that  pruning  is  as  fatal  to  the  rose  as 
to  the  unhappy  pruner,  for  it  is  armed  with  the  most 
cruel  prickles,  like  small  fish-hooks,  of  any  member 
of  the  rose  tribe.  The  flowers,  like  those  of  the 
Banksia  roses,  being  borne  on  the  small  twigs  grow- 
ing from  the  laterals  of  the  second  year,  any  pruning 
which  destroys  these  destroys  all  chance  of  blossom. 
And  this  rule  holds  good  with  most  of  the 
Noisettes. 

Ophirie  (Goubault,  1841),  with  its  rather  small 
nankeen  and  copper-red  flowers  and  glossy  leaves,  is 
also  glad  of  a  little  shelter.  While  the  delightful 
Celine  Forestier  (Trouillard,  1842)  will  flourish  in 
almost  any  situation,  though  it  prefers  a  wall. 

Later  on,  the  influence  of  crossings  between  the 
Noisette  and  the  pure  Tea  instead  of  the  China  rose, 
is  very  evident  in  such  superb  roses  as  Marechal 
Niel,  L' Ideal,  Wassily  Chludqff — an  admirable  rose, 
by  the  way — the  invaluable  R&ve  d'Or,  which  seldom 


NOISETTE 

WILLIAM    ALLEN    RICHARDSON. 


CLIMBING  EOSES  71 

bears  a  cluster  of  more  than  three  flowers,  and  others. 
But  though  that  universal  favourite,  William  Allen 
Richardson,  is,  alas!  scentless,  its  habit  has  more 
in  common  with  the  Noisettes.  Reve  d'Or  is  one  of 
the  most  useful  and  hardy  of  the  race,  a  rampant 
grower,  with  buff  yellow  blossoms  borne  in  immense 
numbers  both  in  summer  and  autumn,  while  its  rich 
red  shoots  and  reddish-green  foliage  make  it  a  beauti- 
ful object  before  and  after  it  blooms.  It  strongly 
resents  any  pruning  beyond  shortening  its  vigorous 
summer  shoots. 

Among  the  Hybrid  Noisettes — i.  e.  those  crossed 
with  the  Hybrid  perpetual — Boule  de  Neige,  a  dwarf, 
and  Madame  Alfred  Carrier  e,,  a  rampant  climber, 
are  the  best.  The  latter  is  certainly  one  of  the  best 
white  climbing  roses  we  have,  its  white  blossoms, 
which  some  liken  to  the  porcelain  roses  manufactured 
abroad,  are  borne  singly  on  the  stalks,  and  last  long 
in  water,  while  it  is  never  out  of  flower  from  June 
to  November. 

THE  MUSK  EOSE,  J2.  Moschata, 

seed  parent  of  the  Noisette,  is  perhaps  more  widely 
spread  than  any  other  rose  over  the  face  of  the 
earth.  From  Madeira  through  Africa  and  Persia  to 
Far  Cathay  it  blooms,  and  sheds  its  delicious  musky 
scent  in  the  evening  air.  That  it  has  been  prized  in 
the  West  for  centuries  we  know — for  Shakespeare's 
Titania  promises  the  ass  to  "  stick  Musk  roses  in  thy 


72  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

sleek  smooth  head."  Hakluyt  says  that  "  Of  later 
times  was  procured  out  of  Italy  the  Muske  rose 
plant."  And  Bacon  declares  that  while  the  white 
double  Violet  is  the  sweetest  of  all,  "next  to  that 
is  the  Musk  rose." 

The  original  Musk  rose  bearing  large  bunches  of 
single  white  flowers,  is  now  seldom  seen  except  in 
very  old  gardens  where  it  attains  a  great  size.  Mr. 
Rivers,  in  the  Amateur's  Rose  Guide,  1843,  says 
that  "  Olivier  who  travelled  in  the  first  six  years  of 
the  French  Republic,  mentions  a  rose  tree  at  Ispahan, 
called  the  *  Chinese  Rose  Tree/  fifteen  feet  high, 
formed  by  the  union  of  several  stems,  each  four  or 
five  inches  in  diameter.  Seeds  from  this  tree  were 
sent  to  Paris,  and  produced  the  common  Musk  Rose." 
But  wherever  it  can  be  found  it  should  be  cherished 
for  the  sake  of  its  scent,  which  is  strongest  in  the 
evening,  especially  after  rain,  filling  the  whole  air 
with  its  fragrance. 

Himalayica  is  a  fine  single  white  form  of  Mos- 
chata ;  and  so  is  Nivea,  a  large  single  variety  from 
Nepaul,  white,  tinged  with  pink.  Of  the  double  and 
semi-double  hybrids,  the  Fringed  Musk,  a  very  old 
favourite  still  in  cultivation,  Rivers'  Musk,  pink, 
shaded  buff,  and  the  charming  Princesse  de  Nassau, 
straw  colour  and  very  sweet,  are  all  good  roses, 
coming  into  flower  very  late  in  the  season,  and 
lasting  on  through  the  autumn.  For  pillars  they 
are  excellent  subjects. 


CLIMBING  EOSES  73 

Madame  d'Arblay  and  The  Garland  are  hybrids 
of  the  Musk  rose,  which  only  bloom  in  summer. 

THE  HIMALAYAN  BRIAR,  Rosa  Brunonis, 
is  sometimes  classed  with  the  Musk  roses :  but  this 
is  an  error,  as  it  is  a  distinct  species,  and  is  also  only 
summer  flowering.  With  its  double  variety,  it  is  a 
beautiful  rose  for  pillar,  arch,  or  pergola ;  the  white 
flowers  are  very  sweet  and  borne  in  clusters.  But  it 
should  be  planted  where  it  can  get  plenty  of  sun  to 
ripen  the  wood. 

THE  MACARTNEY  EOSE,  JR.  bracteata, 
was  brought  from  China  in  1795  by  Lord  Macartney. 
The  handsome  shiny  evergreen  foliage  and  large 
solitary  white  flowers  with  a  mass  of  golden  stamens, 
make  it  a  beautiful  object.  It  does  best,  as  do  its 
hybrids,  on  a  wall  in  a  warm  dry  position :  but  it 
will  not  flower  until  it  is  thoroughly  established. 
Maria  Leonida  is  a  hybrid  of  the  early  nineteenth 
century,  very  beautiful  when  its  very  full  white 
flowers,  slightly  flushed  in  the  centre  with  pink, 
open  properly.  But  they  need  plenty  of  sun  and  a 
sheltered  position  to  do  so  in  perfection.  Rosa 
Lucida  and  Lucida  plena  are  two  rose-coloured 
hybrids  with  handsome  reddish  foliage. 

With  the  Noisettes,  Musk,  and  Macartney  roses, 
we  have  only  touched  the  fringe  of  autumn  flowering 
climbers.  And  three  most  important  classes  remain 
to  be  noticed.  These  are — 


74  EOSE8  AND  KOSE  GROWING 

CLIMBING  HYBRID  PERPETUALS,  TEAS,  AND 
HYBRID  TEAS. 

Among  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  there  are  several 
fine  climbing  roses,  as  well  as  climbing  sports  of 
well-known  dwarfs,  which  are  valuable  to  this  class. 
While  roses  of  specially  vigorous  growth,  but  not 
usually  counted  as  climbers,  such  as  Magna  Charta, 
Margaret  Dickson,  Pierre  Notting,  and  others,  make 
admirable  pillars. 

But  it  is  among  the  Tea  and  Hybrid  Tea  roses 
that  we  find  our  richest  harvest  of  autumn  flowering 
climbers.  Some  of  these  are  pure  climbers,  such  as 
the  noble  Gloire  de  Dijon  and  its  descendants ;  and 
Cheshunt  Hybrid,  Heine  Marie  Henriette,  Reine 
Olga  de  Wurtemberg,  Belle  Lyonnaise,  etc.  Many 
of  these  and  others  do  grandly  as  tall  standards, 
making  fine  heads  covered  with  bloom.  And  many 
more  can  be  grown  as  isolated  bush  roses,  planted 
out  singly  with  plenty  of  space  round  them.  Gruss 
an  Teplitz,  Gustave  Regis,  Mme.  Jules  Gravereaux, 
the  exquisite  Lady  Waterlow,  and  Cooling's  Apple 
Blossom,  are  specially  suited  to  this  form  of  growth. 

In  the  following  lists  of  these  three  groups  of 
roses,  I  have,  for  convenience  sake,  placed  Teas  and 
Hybrid  Teas  together. 

NOISETTE  ROSES,  R.  Noisettiana. 

Aime*e    Vibert.      Vibert,    1828.      White,   climbing; 
there  is  also  a  dwarf  form. 


CLIMBING  KOSES  75 

Alister   Stella   Gray.      Gray,    1895.      Pale  yellow, 

orange  centre. 
Bouquet  d'Or.     Ducher,  1873.     Pale  yellow,  centre 

copper. 

Celine  Forestier.     Trouillard,  1842.     Pale  yellow. 
Cloth  of  Gold.     Coquereau,   1843.     Golden  yellow, 

sulphur  edges. 
Cr^puscule.     Dubreuil,    1905.     Eich   copper  yellow 

and  nasturtium  red. 
Fellenberg.       Fellenberg,     1857.       Eosy     crimson, 

suitable  for  a  dwarf  wall,  or  pillar. 
Fortune's  Yellow.     Fortune,  1845.     Orange  yellow, 

shaded  metallic  red,  summer  flowering. 
Jaune   Desprez.     Desprez,  about  1825.     Buff,  pink, 

sulphur  and  red,  variable. 

Lamarque.     Marechal,  1830.     White,  shaded  lemon. 
L'Ideal.      Nabonnand,  1887.      Metallic  red,  tinted 

yellow. 
Madame  Carnot.      Moreau- Robert,    1890.      Golden 

yellow,  coppery  centre. 

Madame  Caroline  Kuster.   Fernet,  1873.    Pale  yellow. 
Madame  Pierre  Cochet.     Cochet,  1892.     Deep  orange 

yellow,  dwarf  wall. 

Marshal  Niel.     Pradel,  1864.     Deep  golden  yellow. 
Marie  Th&rese  Dubourg.     Godard,  1889.     Coppery 

golden  yellow. 

Ophirie.     Goubault,  1841.     Nankeen  and  copper. 
Reve  d'Or.     Ducher,  1870.     Coppery  buff  yellow. 
Solfaterre.     Boyeau,  1843.     Fine  sulphur  yellow. 
Souv.  de  Prince  C.  d'Arenberg.     Soupert  et  Hotting, 

1897.     Canary  yellow. 
Triomphe  de  Eennes.     Eug.  Verdier,  1857.     Canary 

yellow. 

Wasily  Chludoff.     Coppery  red,  tinted  yellow. 
William  Allen  Eichardson.     Ducher,    1878.      Fine 

orange  yellow. 


76          EOSE8  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

HYBRID  PERPETUALS,  CLIMBING. 

Ards  Rover.     Alex.  DicJcson,  1896.     Deep  crimson. 
Brightness  of  Cheshunt.      Paul  &  Son,  1882.     Brick 

red. 
Climbing    Bessie    Johnson.      Paul    d    Son,    1899. 

White,  tinged  pink. 

,,        Captain  Hay  ward.     Paul  d  Son,  1906. 

,,        Charles  Lefebvre. 

„        Eugenie  Verdier.     Paul  &  Son. 

„        Frau  Carl  Druschki.     Lawrenson,  1906. 

„        Glory  of  Cheshunt.     Paul  &  Son. 

„        Hippolyte  Jamain.     Paul  &  Son,  1887. 

„        Jules  Margottin. 

Pride  of  Waltham.      Wm.  Paul  d  Son,1887. 

„        Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi.     Paul  d  Son. 

Victor  Verdier.     Paul  d  Son,  1872. 
Gloire    de    Margottin.      Margottin,    1888.      Bright 

cherry  red. 
Glory  of  Waltham.      Wm.  Paul  d  Son.     Crimson, 

very  sweet. 

Madame  Edme'e  Cocteau.     Colour  of  Captain  Christy. 
Marshal  Vaillant.     Purplish  red. 
Paul's  Single  White.      Paul  d  Son.     Pure  white, 

single. 
Princess   Louise  Victoria.     Knight,   1872.     Carmine 

shading  to  peach. 

NOTE. — Where  no  colours  are  indicated,  the  climbing  sports 
are  exactly  like  the  dwarf  roses  of  the  same  name. 

TEAS  AND  HYBRID  TEAS,  CLIMBING. 
Pink  and  Eose. 

Apple   Blossom.       Cooling,  1906.      Colour  of  apple 
blossoms,  pillar  or  bush. 


CLIMBING  KOSES  77 

Climbing   Captain   Christy.      Ducher,    1881.     Even 
finer  than  the  dwarf. 

Belle   Siebrecht   (syn.  Mrs.    W.  J.  Grant). 
Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1899. 
„        Caroline  Testout.     Chauvry,  1902. 
„        La  France.     P.  Henderson,  1893. 
„        Mme.    de    Watteville.       Fauque- Laurent, 

1902. 
Dawn.     Paul  &  Son,  1898.    Large  semi-double,  rosy 

pink. 
England's   Glory.     Wood,    1902.     Flesh  with   pink 

centre. 
Lady  Waterlow.     Nabonnand,  1902.     Clear  salmon 

pink,  large  petals  edged  crimson. 
Madame    Charles    Monnier.      Pernet-Ducher,  1902. 

Eosy  flesh,  shaded  salmon. 
Madame   Jules   Gravereaux.      Soupert  et    Notting, 

1901.     Buff,  shaded  peach. 
Madame  Marie  Lavalley.     Nabonnand,  1880.    Bright 

rose,  reflexed  white. 
Papillon.      Nabonnand,    1882.      Pink    and    white, 

shaded  copper. 
Pink  Kover.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1890.      Pale  pink, 

very  fragrant. 
Princess  May.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son.     Soft  opaque  pink. 

TEA  AND  HYBRID  TEA  CLIMBING  KOSES. 
Salmon,  orange,  yellow. 

Billiard    et    Barre.     Pernet-Ducher,    1899,    golden 

yellow. 
Bouquet    d'Or.      Ducher,    1872.     Yellow,    coppery 

centre. 

Climbing  Perle  des  Jardins.     J.  Henderson,  1891. 
Comte   de    Torres.     A.     Schwartz,    1906.     Salmon 

white,  pink  centre. 


78  ROSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

Duchesse  d'Auerstadt.     Bernaix,  1887.     Pure  yellow 

bud,  shaded  nankeen. 
E.    Veyrat   Hermanos.      Bernaix,    1895.       Apricot, 

reflexed  deep  red. 
Germaine    Trochon.     Salmon    flesh,  centre   nankeen 

yellow. 
Gloire    de   Dijon.     Jacotot,    1853.     Buff  or  salmon 

yellow,  centre  orange. 
Gustave  R£gis.      Pernet-Ducher,    1890.      Nankeen 

yellow,  pillar   or  bush. 
Henri ette   de   Beauveau.      Lacharme,  1887.      Clear 

yellow. 
Kaiserin    Friedrich.      Drogemuller,    1890.      Bright 

yellow. 

Le  Soleil.     Dubreuil,  1892.     Chrome  and  canary. 
Mme.  Auguste  Choutet.     Yellow  or  deep  orange. 
Mme.  Barthelemy  Levet.     Levet  pere,  1880.     Canary 

yellow. 

Mme.  Berard.     Levet,  1872.     Fawn,  touched  red. 
Mme.  Chauvry.     Bonnaire,  1887.     Nankeen  yellow. 
Mme.  Eugene  Verdier.    Levet,  1882.    Deep  chamois 

yellow. 
Mme.  Hector  Leuillot.  Pernet-Ducher,  1904.  Golden 

yellow,  tinted  carmine. 
Mme.  Moreau.      Moreau,    1890.     Coppery     yellow, 

deeper  centre,  reverse  apricot. 
Marshal  Niel.  See  Noisette  roses. 
Souv.  de  L.  Viermot.  Bernaix,  1897.  Jonquil 

yellow,  shaded  china  rose. 

White  and  Lemon. 

Belle  Ly onnaise.  Levet,  1869.  Canary  yellow  and  white. 
Climbing  Devoniensis.     Pavitt,  1858. 
Climbing  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria.     Alex.  Dickson, 
1897. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  79 

Climbing  Niphetos.     Keynes  &  Co.  1889. 

(These  three  last  roses  need  a  very  warm  wall,  and 

are  best  under  glass.) 

Gloire  des  Blanches.      Vign&ron,  1905.     Pure  white. 
Mme.  Jules  Siegfried.     Creamy  white  shaded  flesh. 
Valentine  Altermann.     Pure  white,  semi-double. 

Eed. 

Ards    Pillar.     Alex.    DicJcson,    1902.     Eich  velvety 

crimson. 

Cheshunt  Hybrid.     Paul  d  Son,  1873.     Cherry  red. 
Climbing  Meteor. 

Climbing  Papa  Gontier.     Goubault,  1903. 
Climbing  Souv.  de  Wootton. 
Dr.  Rouges.     Vve.  Schwartz,  1894.     Red,  yellowish 

centre,  irregular  form. 

Frangois  Crousse.     Guillot,  1900.     Fiery  crimson  red. 
Gruss    an    Teplitz.       Geschwind,    1897.      Brightest 

scarlet  crimson. 

Lina  Schmidt-Michel,  1906.     Bright  lake  rose. 
Longworth     Rambler.       Liabaud,      1880.       Light 

crimson,  semi-double. 
Mohrenkonig. 

Monsieur  Desir.     Fernet  per e,  1889.     Crimson. 
Morgenroth.     P.  Lambert,    1903.      Bright  crimson, 

white  centre,  single. 
Noella    Nabonnand.     Nabonnand,     1900.     Velvety 

crimson. 

Progress.     Bright  carmine,  semi-double. 
Rein e  Marie  Henriette.  Levet,  1873.  Deep  cherry  red. 
Reine  Olga   de  Wurtemburg.      Nabonnand,     1881. 

Vivid  red.     Semi-double. 

Souv.  de  Madame  Me'tral.    Bernaix,  1888.    Cherry  red . 
Waltham   Climbers.     1.  2.  3.      Wm.   Paul   &  Son, 

1885.    Shades  of  crimson ;  1,  brightest,  3,  darkest. 


CHAPTER  VI 
TEA  ROSES,  R.  Indica  odorata 

THE  popular  fallacy  which  universally  prevailed 
forty  to  fifty  years  ago  with  regard  to  the  extreme 
delicacy  of  Tea  roses,  has  happily  been  exploded  by 
the  experience  of  later  years.  It  was  then  supposed 
that  no  Tea  rose  could  possibly  stand  the  English 
winter  if  planted  out  of  doors.  And  so  firmly  was 
this  belief  fixed  in  the  minds  of  all  amateurs,  that  if 
they  were  so  reckless  (in  their  own  eyes)  as  to  plant  a 
Tea  rose  anywhere  except  in  a  greenhouse,  the  care- 
ful treatment  they  bestowed  on  the  unfortunate 
specimen  went  far  to  prove  the  rule.  For  not  only 
was  it  pruned  in  the  autumn  :  but  so  coddled  and 
smothered  up  in  straw  and  matting  that  it  could  not 
breathe ;  and  as  every  bud  was  made  doubly  tender 
by  this  means,  when  at  last  it  saw  the  light  again  it 
was  pretty  sure  to  die  of  absolute  anaemia.  The  older 
gardeners  of  the  fifties  would  look  in  amaze  on  our 
glorious  beds  of  Tea  roses,  flowering  in  some  cases  up 
to  Christmas,  and  beginning  again  as  happily  as  ever 
the  next  June.  While  to  us  of  the  present  day,  a  rose 

garden  without  Tea  roses  would  be  no  garden  at  all. 

80 


TEA  KOSES  8 1 

It  is  not  that  the  modern  Tea  rose  is  hardier  than 
its  ancestors  ;  for  some  of  the  old  ones,  such  as 
Souvenir  d'un  Ami,  grow  as  cheerfully  in  the  garden 
as  a  Hybrid  Perpetual.  But  experience  has  shown 
that  Tea  roses,  with  a  very  few  exceptions,  may  be 
safely  grown  in  the  open  ground,  if  a  few  simple 
precautions  are  observed  in  their  treatment. 

The  first  of  these  is,  of  course,  that  no  pruning 
should  be  done  till  April. 

The  second,  that  a  few  fronds  of  bracken  should  be 
drawn  through  the  branches.  This  in  most  cases  will 
be  found  quite  sufficient  to  ward  off  frost.  But  as  an 
extra  precaution  in  the  event  of  very  severe  weather, 
the  earth  may  be  drawn  up  some  four  or  five  inches 
round  the  stems,  so  that  if  by  chance  a  hard  frost 
should  cut  the  upper  part  of  the  shoots,  the  base 
may  still  be  kept  alive.  Great  care,  however,  must 
be  exercised  in  uncovering  the  plants,  the  protecting 
material  being  removed  gradually,  so  that  growth  may 
not  be  unduly  forced  on — only  to  be  cut  by  the  first 
cold  wind — or,  on  the  other  hand,  that  the  plant  may 
not  receive  a  shock  by  sudden  and  complete  exposure. 

Standard  Tea  roses  may  be  protected  by  straw  tied 
lightly  round  the  heads,  care  being  taken  not  to  break 
the  shoots  by  tying  them  in  too  tightly. 

The  history  of  the  Tea  rose  in  Europe  began  just 
100  years  ago.  The  original  "  Blush  tea-scented  rose," 
R.  Indica  odorata,  was  brought  from  China  in  1810. 

In   1824,  the  "Yellow  China  or  Tea  rose  "  was  intro- 
6 


82  KOSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

duced  from  China  by  Mr.  Parkes.  And  the  French 
growers  at  once  began  to  raise  seedlings  from  these 
fruitful  parents  ;  for  both  in  France  and  Italy  the 
Yellow  Tea  rose  seeded  freely,  which  was  not  the  case 
in  England.  By  about  1830  the  reputation  of  the 
Tea  rose  was  firmly  established;  and  in  the  next 
twenty  years  many  varieties  were  raised  :  but  mainly 
in  France,  though  the  finest  of  all,  Devoniensis,  was 
raised  by  Mr.  Foster  of  Plymouth  in  1838.  The  real 
culture  of  the  Tea  rose  by  English  growers,  however, 
did  not  assume  much  importance  until  a  far  later 
period. 

Some  few  of  these  early  Tea  roses  still  hold  their 
own  among  the  host  of  their  brilliant  successors — 
Bougere,  1832  ;  Adam,  1833 ;  Le  Pactole — now 
extremely  difficult  to  procure;  Devoniensis,  1838; 
Safrano,  1839;  Mme.  Willermoz,  1843;  Niphetos, 
1844  ;  Souv.  dun  Ami,  1846  ;  Mme.  Bravy,  1846. 
But  of  some  dozen  or  more  others  in  Mr.  Kivers' 
list  of  1843,  not  a  trace  remains. 

In  1853  a  great  development  took  place,  when 
Jacotot  introduced  an  absolutely  new  type  into  the 
race  with  his  Gloire  de  Dijon.  This  rose  is  so  dis- 
tinct, with  its  strong  constitution,  vigorous  growth, 
and  large  foliage,  that  one  cannot  but  imagine  some 
other  strain,  such  as  the  Noisette,  must  have  helped 
in  fertilizing  the  seed  parent  of  Gloire  de  Dijon. 

Since  that  notable  date,  the  raising  of  new  Tea 
roses  in  England,  France  and  Luxembourg,  has 


TEA  ROSES  83 

developed  in  an  extraordinary  manner.  And  in  the 
last  few  years  Germany  and  America  have  added 
many  fine  novelties  to  the  bewildering  list.  Among 
the  chief  growers  in  England  who  have  devoted  them- 
selves in  the  last  fifty  years  to  the  production  of  Tea 
roses,  we  find  Messrs.  Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  of  Waltham 
Cross ;  Ben  Cant,  of  Colchester  ;  Paul,  of  Cheshunt ; 
Prince,  of  Oxford ;  Frank  Cant,  of  Colchester  ;  Alex. 
Dickson,  of  Newtownards  ;  Piper,  Bennett,  etc. 

In  France,  Luxembourg  and  Germany,  the  famous 
houses  of  Pernet-Ducher,  Nabonnand,  Bernaix,  Bon- 
naire,  Cochet,  Chatenay,  Guillot,  Verdier,  Levet, 
Chauvry,  Dubreuil,  Godard,  Mari,  Lacharme,  LeVeque, 
Soupert  et  Notting,  Lambert,  Schwartz,  etc.,  are  now 
household  words  among  rose  lovers. 

The  influence  of  the  old  Yellow  Tea  is  to  be  found 
among  a  large  proportion  of  these  lovely  roses,  in  the 
golden  and  sulphur  base  which  adds  such  richness  to 
the  endless  shades  of  pink,  crimson,  copper  and  white. 
But  a  pure  yellow  Tea  rose  is  still  a  rarity.  And  its 
production  is  the  goal  towards  which  many  of  the 
greatest  rose-growers  are  still  working. 

What  we  all  desire  is  a  Tea  rose  for  bedding  of  as 
pure  a  yellow  as  the  dear  old  Persian  Briar,  or 
Marechal  Niel,  and  one  that  will  stand,  as  that 
glorious  rose  does,  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun  without 
changing  colour.  For,  charming  as  many  of  the 
so-called  Yellow  Tea  roses  are  when  they  are  in  bud, 
the  open  flower  quickly  turns  white  in  the  sun. 


84  KOSES    AND  ROSE  GROWING 

To  this  object,  as  I  have  said,  some  of  the  greatest 
rose-growers  have  been  devoting  their  energies  for 
years  ;  while  others  are  striving  as  eagerly  and  with 
far  greater  success,  after  the  development  of  deep 
crimson  and  scarlet  Tea  roses.  And  though  they  may 
not  yet  have  attained  the  absolute  perfection  they 
were  seeking,  both  sets  of  experiments  have  resulted 
.of  late  in  some  truly  magnificent  roses,  of  various  rich 
shades  undreamt  of  even  twenty  years  ago. 

In  the  following  lists  the  roses  will  be  found 
grouped  in  colour,  as  this  may  be  useful  to  amateurs 
who  are  unacquainted  with  some  of  the  names.  Many 
of  those  mentioned,  while  they  are  not  included  in 
the  National  Rose  Society's  list,  are  still  well  worthy 
of  cultivation  in  our  gardens;  and  others,  hardly 
known  in  England  as  yet,  have  proved  most  valuable 
in  my  own  Hampshire  collection  and  perfectly  hardy. 

Among  roses  that  are  little  known  in  English 
gardens  are  Baronne  de  Hoffmann,  a  vigorous  grower, 
vivid  copper-red,  with  yellow  base ;  and  the  invalu- 
able M.  Tillier,  which  I  first  saw  in  the  Paris 
Exhibition  of  1900.  I  have  grown  it  largely  since, 
and  every  one  is  attracted  by  the  bushes,  set  thickly 
with  medium-sized  imbricated  flowers  of  carmine  and 
brick-red,  borne  on  upright  stems  in  such  numbers 
that  they  make  a  brilliant  mark  in  the  garden  from  a 
distance.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  I  have  gathered 
good  blooms  at  Christmas.  Amabilis  is  a  useful  china 
pink  rose  for  decorative  purposes,  either  in  the  garden 


TEA  EOSES  85 

or  to  cut  for  the  house  ;  it  is  strong  and  hardy. 
So  is  Marquise  de  Querhoent,  a  strong  grower,  of 
vivid  coppery  salmon  and  china  red.  Ducher's  Coquette 
de  Lyon  is  another  admirable  bedding  rose,  which  is 
not  much  grown  in  England.  The  flowers  which 
cover  the  plant  are  full,  well-shaped,  of  medium  size, 
a  pale  canary  yellow,  and  last  long  in  water. 

I  would  also  call  attention  to  other  roses  which, 
though  well  known  to  collectors  and  exhibitors,  might 
be  more  generally  cultivated  by  the  ordinary  amateur. 

These  are  the  delightful  G.  Nabonnand,  Duchesse 
Marie  Salviati,  Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant — an  admirable  rose 
— Madame  Constant  Soupert,  a  new  and  most 
brilliant  variety;  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting — best 
on  a  standard,  but  excellent  in  every  way ;  General 
Schablikine,  absolutely  invaluable,  as  it  is  covered 
with  bloom  from  June  to  November ;  Innocent  Pirola, 
one  of  the  best  creamy  whites  ;  Peace,  a  newer  and 
very  beautiful  rose,  pale  lemon,  carrying  its  fine 
flowers  singly  on  strong  erect  stalks  ;  and  the  older 
Souv.  de  S.  A.  Prince,  a  pure  white  sport  from  Souv. 
d'un  Ami. 

The  climbing  Tea  roses  will  be  found  in  another 
chapter. 

PINK,  KOSE,  SALMON,  PEACH. 

Archiduchesse  Marie  Immaculata.  Soupert  et  Notting, 

1887.     Brick  red. 
Adam.     Adam,  1833.     Eose,  shaded  salmon. 


86          EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Baronne  H.  de  Loew.     Nabonnand,  1889.     Tender 

rose,  yellow  centre. 
Boadicea.     W.  Paul  &  Son,  1901.    Pale  peach,  tinted 

rose. 

Bridesmaid.     May,  1893.     Clear  pink. 
Catherine  Mermet.     J.  B.  Guillot  fils,  1869.     Light 

rosy  flesh. 
Cecile-Charles.     Schwartz,  1907.     Pale  rosy  salmon, 

edged  carmine,  fragrant. 
Comtesse  de  Breteuil.    Pernet-Ducher,  1893.    Salmon 

rose,  peach  centre. 
Comtesse  de  Nadaillac.    Guillot,  1871.    Peach,  shaded 

apricot,  salmon  base ;  an  exhibitor's  rose. 
Dr.  Grill.    Bonnaire,  1886.    Clear  rose,  centre  salmon. 
Duchesse  Maria  Salviati.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1890. 

Rosy  flesh,  shaded  chrome,  fragrant. 
Ernest  Metz.     Gfuillot,   1889.     Soft  carmine  -  rose, 

reverse  of  petals  deeper. 
Ethel    Brownlow.      Alex.   Dickson,   1887.      Bright 

salmon-pink,  yellow  base. 
Franciska  Kruger.       Nabonnand,   1879.       Copper, 

shaded  peach. 
G.    Nabonnand.      Nabonnand,    1889.      Pale    flesh, 

shaded  yellow. 

Homere.     Robert,  1859.     Rose-edged,  salmon  centre. 
Jean  Ducher.    Ditcher,  1874.    Salmon  yellow,  shaded 

peach. 

Lena.     Alex.  Dickson,  1906.     Glowing  apricot. 
Madame  Antoine  Mari.     Mari,  1902.     Rose,  washed 

with  white. 

Madame  Cusin.    Guillot,  1881.    Rose,  lighter  centre. 
Madame  Georges  Durrschmidt.   Peletier,  1895.    China 

rose,  cerise  centre,  fragrant. 

Madame  Lambard.     Lacharme,  1877.     Bright  rose. 
Madame  Jules  Gravereaux.    Soupert  et  Notting,  1901. 

Chamois  yellow,  rosy  peach  centre. 


TEA  ROSES  87 

Madame  Philemon  Cochet.    Clear  rose,  shaded  salmon. 
Maman   Cochet.       Cochet,  1893.      Carmine,  shaded 

salmon-yellow. 
Mathilde  Liegeard.    Nabonnand,  1907.    Pearly  rose, 

touched  carmine. 
Mrs.  B.  R.  Cant.     B.  R.  Cant,  1901.      Deep  rose 

outer  petals,  inner  petals  silvery  rose. 
Mrs.  Edward  Mawley.    Alex.  Dickson,  1899.    Bright 

carmine,  shaded  salmon. 
Morning  Glow.      Wm.   Paul  &  Son,   1902.      Rosy 

crimson,  suffused  orange  and  fawn. 
Nellie  Johnstone.     Paul  &  Son,   1906.     Pure  rose 

pink. 
Paul  Nabonnand.     Nabonnand,   1878.     Hydrangea 

pink. 
Rainbow.     Sievers,  1891.     Sport  from  Papa  Gontier, 

pink,  striped  crimson. 
Rose  d'Evian.     Bernaix,  1895.     China  rose  outside, 

lined  carmine. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami.    Defougdre,  1846.     Salmon-rose. 
Souvenir  de  Paul  Neyron.      Levet,   1872.     Salmon, 

edged  rose. 
Souvenir   de   William    Robinson.       Bernaix,    1900. 

Fawn,  shaded  pink  and  yellow. 
Sunrise.    Piper,  1899.    Outer  petals  carmine,  shading 

to  pale  fawn  and  salmon  within. 

YELLOW,  BUFF,  AND  APRICOT. 

Alexandra.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1901.    Copper  yellow, 

streaked  with  orange. 

Anna  Olivier.     Ducher,  1872.     Buff,  flushed  pink. 
Antoine  Devert.     Gonod,  1881.     Clear  straw  colour. 
Belle  Lyonnaise.    Levet,  1869.    Deep  lemon,  climbing. 
Billiard  et  Barre.    Fernet- Ducher,  1899.    Deep  golden 

yellow. 


88  EOSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

Blumenschmidt,    J.  C.  Schmidt,  1907.    Bright  lemon 

yellow,  edged  pink. 
Comtesse  Alexandra  Kinsky.      Sou/pert  et  Netting, 

1905.     White,  centre  apricot  yellow. 
Comtesse  de  Frigneuse.     Gutilot,  1886.    Fine  canary 

yellow. 
Georges  Schwartz.     Schwartz,   1900.     Deep  canary 

yellow. 

Goldquelle.     Lambert,  1899.     Clear  golden  yellow. 
Harry  Kirk.     Alex.  Dickson,  1907.     Deep  sulphur 

yellow. 
Hugo  Eoller.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,   1907.      Lemon 

yellow,  edged  crimson. 
J.  F.  Giraud.     Ketter,  1907.     Golden  yellow,  centre 

saffron. 

Jean  Fernet.     Fernet ,  1869.     Clear  yellow. 
Lena.    Alex.  Dickson,  1906.    Glowing  apricot,  edged 

primrose. 
Lady  Mary  Corry.      Alex.   Dickson,    1900.     Deep 

golden  yellow. 
Madame  Barthdlemy  Le vet.  Levetpdre,  1880.   Canary 

yellow,  climbing. 

Madame  Chauvry.   Bonnaire,  1887.    Nankeen  yellow. 
Madame  Chedanne  Guinoisseau.  Levtique,  1880.   Clear 

bright  yellow. 
Madame  C.  r.  Strassheim.    Soupert  et  Netting,  1898. 

Yellowish-white  in  summer,  turning  sulphur  and 

buff  in  autumn. 
Madame  Constant  Soupert.    Soupert  et  Netting,  1906. 

Dark  golden-yellow,  strongly. tinted  peach- pink. 
Madame    Edmond    Sablayrolles.      Bonnaire,    1907. 

Clear  yellow,  orange  centre. 

Madame  Falcot.    Guillot,  1858.    Deep  apricot  yellow. 
Madame  Pol  Varin  -  Bernier.     Soupert  et  Netting, 

1907.     Melon-yellow  shaded;  a  "yellow  Eich- 

mond," 


TEA  EOSES  89 

Mrs.  Dudley  Cross.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1907.     Pale 

chamois  yellow,  with  touches  of  rose  and  crimson 

in  autumn. 

Perle  de  Lyon.     Ducher,  1873.     Deep  yellow. 
Perle  des  Jardins.     Levet,  1874.     Deep  straw-colour. 
Perle  des  Jaunes.     Reymond,  1904.      Deep  orange 

yellow,  tinted  salmon. 
Eose   Gubert.     Nabonnand,    1907.      Tender  bright 

yellow,  deep  centre. 

Safrano.     Beauregard,  1839.     Bright  apricot. 
Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting.      Soupert  et  Notting, 

1903.     Apricot-yellow,  blended  copper-yellow. 
Souvenir  de  Stella  Gray.    Alex.  Dickson,  1907.    Deep 

orange,  veined  yellow,  apricot,  and  crimson. 
Sulphurea.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1902.    Sulphur  yellow. 
Sunset.     Henderson,  1884.     Deep  apricot. 

CRIMSON  AND  COPPER-RED. 

Albert  Durand.     Schwartz,  1906.    Coppery  carmine, 

shaded  flesh. 
Amabilis.     China  red, 

Bardou  Job.     Nabonnand,  1887.     Glowing  crimson. 
Baronne  de  Hoffmann,  Nabonnand,  1887.     Copper 

and  crimson. 
Baronne   Henriette   Snoy.      Bernaix,  1898.     Petals 

carnation  inside,  outside  carmine  pink. 
Beaute*  Inconstante.    Pernet-Ducher,I893.    Coppery- 
red,  shaded  carmine  and  yellow. 
Betty  Berkeley.    Bernaix,  1904.    Bright  red,  shading 

to  crimson. 
Christine  de  Noue.     Guillotjils,  1891.     Deep  purple 

red,  shaded  pink. 

Corallina.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1900.     Deep  rose. 
Empress  Alexandra  of  Eussia.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son, 

1898.     Lake,  shaded  orange  and  crimson. 


90  EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Francois  Dubreuil.     Dubreuil,  1895.     Deep  crimson. 

Frau  Dr.  Thelka  Schlegelmilcli.  Welter,  1902.  Bright 
red,  shaded  velvet  crimson. 

Freiherr  von  Marschall.  Lambert,  1903.  Dark 
carmine. 

General  Schablikine.  Nabonnand,  1879.  Coppery- 
red. 

Lady  Roberts.  Frank  Cant,  1902.  Rich  apricot, 
copper-red  base. 

L'Ide'al.    Nabonnand,  1887.    Yellow  and  metallic  red. 

Ma  Capucine.  Levet,  1871.  Bronzy  yellow,  shaded 
red. 

Monsieur  Desir.     Fernet  per e,  1889.     Crimson. 

Monsieur  Tillier.  Bernaix,  1892.  Carmine  and 
brick-red. 

Mrs.  Reynolds  Hole.  Nabonnand,  1900.  Dark 
purple  pink,  centre  crimson. 

Papa  Gontier.     Nabonnand,  1883.     Rosy  crimson. 

Princesse  de  Sagan.  Dubreuil,  1887.  Deep  cherry 
red,  shaded  maroon. 

Salmonea.  Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1902.  Bright  crimson 
with  light  salmon  centre. 

Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot.  Guillot,  1896.  Cop- 
pery carmine,  and  orange. 

Souvenir  J.  B.  Guillot.  Guillot,  1897.  Nasturtium- 
red,  shaded  to  crimson  and  rose. 

Souvenir  Th^rese  Levet.  Levet,  1882.  Brownish 
crimson. 

WHITE  AND  PALE  LEMON. 

Caroline  Kuster.     Fernet,  1872.     Pale  yellow. 
Chateau   des   Bergeries.      Ledechaux,    1886.      Very 

pale  canary  yellow,  centre  darker. 
Comtesse  Eva  de  Starhemberg.     Soupert  et  Netting, 

1891.     Cream,  centre  ochre. 


TEA  EOSES  91 

Comtesse  de  Saxe.    Soupert  et  Notting,  1905.   Porce- 
lain white. 
Coquette  de   Lyon.     Fernet  Ducher,    1872.      Pale 

canary  yellow. 
Devoniensis.     Foster,  1838.     White,  touched  lemon. 

Tender. 
Enchantress.      Wm.   Paul  &  Son,    1896.      Creamy 

white. 

feoile  de  Lyon.     Guillot,  1881.     Deep  lemon. 
Grand  Duchess  Olga.    Levdque,  1897.    Creamy  white. 
Golden  Gate.      Dingee   &    Conard,    1892.      Creamy 

white,  yellow  base. 

Hon.  Edith  Gifford.  Guillot,  1882.  White,  centre  flesh. 
Innocent   Pirola.      Ducher,    1878.      Creamy  white, 

shaded  yellow. 

Isabella  Sprunt.      Verchaffelt,  1866.     Pale  sulphur. 
Ivory.    America  Rose  Co.,  1902.     Ivory-white  sport 

from  Golden  Gate. 

Le   Pactole.     Sulphur  yellow,  pointed  buds. 
Madame    Bravy.      Guillot,    1846.      White,    centre 

tinted  pink. 
Madame  Carnot.     Fernet,  1894.     Yellowish  white  on 

deep  yellow  ground. 

Madame  Hoste.     Guillot,  1887.     Primrose  yellow. 
Madame    de   Watteville.       Guillot,   1883.      Salmon 

white,  petals  edged  bright  rose. 
Marie  Van  Houtte.     Ducher,  1871.     Canary  yellow, 

petals  tipped  rose. 

Marquis  de  Moustier.     Dubreuil,  1906.     Ivory,  re- 
flexed  pearly  white. 
Medea.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1891.      Lemon  yellow, 

canary  centre. 
Mrs.  Miles  Kennedy.     Alex.  Dickson,  1906.     Silvery 

white,  shaded  buff,  pink  centre. 
Muriel  Grahame.    Alex.  Dickson,  1898.    Pale  cream, 

flushed  rose. 


92  EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Niphetos.     Bougere,  1844.     Pure  white. 

Peace.     Piper,  1902.     Pale  lemon. 

Reine  Natalie  de  Serbie.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1886. 

Creamy  flesh. 
Rubens.      Robert,   1859.     White,   delicately  tinted 

rose. 
Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon.      Marest,  1854.     Creamy 

white. 
Souvenir  de  Gabrielle  Drevet    Guillot,  1865.    Salmon 

white. 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince.    Prince,  1889.     Pure  white 

sport  from  Souv.  d'un  Ami. 
The  Bride.    May,  1885.    White  sport  from  Catherine 

Mermet. 
White   Maman  Cochet.     Cook,   1898.     White  sport 

from  Maman  Cochet. 


TEA 
WHITE    MAMAN    COCHET. 


CHAPTER  VII 
HYBRID  TEA-KOSES,  R.  indica  odorata  hybrida 

OF  all  gracious  gifts  that  the  patient  science  of 
hybridists  has  bestowed  on  rose-lovers,  the  develop- 
ment of  the  Hybrid  Tea  is  perhaps  the  greatest.  For 
here  we  have  a  rose  with  the  substance  and  vigorous 
constitution  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual,  one  of  its 
parents,  and  the  varied  and  delicate  colours  of  its 
other  parent,  the  Tea  rose.  Whether  for  the  garden, 
to  keep  it  brilliant  with  blossom  from  early  summer 
to  latest  autumn,  or  to  deck  the  exhibition  bench 
with  largest  and  most  lovely  blooms,  the  Hybrid  Tea 
stands  unrivalled.  And  yet  in  1867  there  was  but 
one  solitary  specimen  of  the  race  in  existence,  and  that 
one  was  not  recognized  as  being  the  forerunner  of  a 
new  family,  or  distinct  in  any  way,  except  in  its 
beauty.  For  the  noble  rose  La  France,  which  M. 
Guillot  sent  out  in  that  year,  was  classed  then,  and 
for  many  years  after,  as  a  Hybrid  Perpetual. 

It  was  not  until  1873  that  Messrs.  Paul  &  Son,  of 
Cheshunt,  sent  out  the  first  so-called  Hybrid  Tea,  the 
Cheshunt  Hybrid.  Though  in  the  same  year  Lach- 

arme  introduced  that  priceless  rose  Captain  Christy  : 

93 


94  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

but  this,  like  La  France,  was  for  many  years  classed 
with  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

Other  new  roses  of  this  new  race  followed  slowly — 
very  slowly — till  1890.  I  have  just  gone  carefully 
through  the  catalogues  of  the  chief  English  and 
foreign  rose-growers;  and  find  that  in  1889  only 
twenty-four  Hybrid  Teas  were  known.  There  were 
some  truly  admirable  roses  among  them.  Camoens 
came  in  1881.  Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam,  one  of  the 
most  valuable,  1882.  Delightful  Papa  Gontier,  1883. 
GraceDarling  and Gloire Lyonnaise,I884: — the  latter 
a  rose  which  is  not  as  generally  cultivated  as  it  should 
be ;  for  grown  as  a  bush  it  is  the  perfection  of  an 
autumn  rose.  Viscountess  Folkestone,  1886.  Bar  don 
Job,  1887 — a  sKghtly  capricious  rose  in  some  places  : 
but  so  beautiful  with  its  great  semi-double  flowers  of 
scarlet-crimson  flaked  with  velvety-black,  that  one 
bears  with  its  little  ways  patiently,  rejoicing  when  it 
condescends  to  respond  to  one's  care.  In  1888  came 
Bennett's  The  Meteor.  In  1889  Augustine  Guinois- 
seau,  invaluable  for  massing.  And  either  that  year 
or  the  next,  the  gorgeous  and  thorny  Marquise  de 
Salisbury. 

But  the  real  development  of  the  race  began  in 
1890.  And  since  then  each  year  has  seen  one  superb 
rose  after  another  produced  in  such  numbers,  that  it 
is  as  difficult  to  keep  count  of  them  as  to  determine 
which  of  the  magnificent  novelties  should  be  picked 
out  for  special  mention. 


HYBRID  TEA. 

BARDOU    JOB. 


HYBKID   TEA  ROSES  95 

It  must  be  noted  that  there  has  been  rather  too  great 
a  tendency  to  raise  enormous  roses  of  slightly  pale 
colouring,  and  among  them  many  are  merely  fit  for 
exhibition  and  of  little  use  to  the  amateur  for  garden 
purposes.  But  of  late  these  faint  shades  have  been 
successfully  fought  against ;  and  while  size  has  been 
preserved  the  colours  are  growing  deeper  and  richer 
each  year.  So  that  we  are  surely  drawing  nearer  the 
not  impossible  day  when  we  may  get  Hybrid  Tea 
roses  as  brilliant  a  red  or  yellow  as  Duke  of  Edin- 
burgh or  Marechal  Niel,  as  large  as  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  and  as  fragrant,  let  us  hope,  as  La  France. 
As  it  is,  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  anything  much  mor& 
vivid  than  the  orange,  deep  salmon-pink,  copper-red, 
and  rosy-apricot  of  some  of  the  novelties  of  1906-7-8. 
Among  them  may  be  noted  Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  & 
Son's  Dorothy  Page- Roberts,  Souvenir  de  fitella 
Gray ;  Messrs.  Wm.  Paul's  Warrior ;  MM.  Soupert 
et  Notting's  magnificent  Mme.  Segond  Weber, 
Mme.  J.  W.  JBudde,  Marichu  Zayas ;  M.  Pernet- 
Ducher's  Mme.  Maurice  de  Luze,  and  Mrs.  Aaron 
Ward. 

These  roses,  as  I  have  said,  are  the  result  of  cross- 
ings between  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  the  Tea  rose. 
And  if  we  think  for  a  moment  how  these  two  families 
came  into  existence,  we  shall  see  what  a  curious  and 
interesting  blending  of  many  different  strains  has 
been  needed  to  develop  this  beautiful  and  valuable 
race.  But  the  end  has  not  come  yet  to  what  may  be 


96          ROSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

accomplished.  And  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
many  remarkable  developments  in  the  history  of  rose- 
growing  still  lie  before  us  and  succeeding  genera- 
tions, when  the  results  of  fresh  experiments  with  the 
Wichuraiana,  the  Rugosa,  and  other  roses  are  made 
known. 

One  most  interesting  and  valuable  development  of 
the  race  has  already  been  made,  and  must  not  be 
passed  over  in  silence.  I  mean  the  single  Irish  roses 
of  Messrs.  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  which  form  a  little 
class  to  themselves.  These  roses  are  most  attractive, 
as  they  are  densely  covered  through  the  whole  season 
with  flowers  of  varied  and  vivid  colours,  pure  white, 
coral  pink,  brilliant  crimson,  bronzy-scarlet,  old-gold 
and  rose,  saffron  and  rose.  And  when  we  add  to 
these  beautiful  shades  their  fragrance,  their  handsome 
glossy  foliage,  their  bushy  growth,  and  their  vigorous 
hardy  constitution,  it  is  not  surprising  that  since  their 
first  appearance  in  1900  they  have  rushed  into  favour, 
and  received  many  cards  of  commendation  from  the 
N.R.S. 

With  such  a  wealth  of  fine  varieties  to  choose  from, 
it  is  a  little  difficult  to  make  a  selection  of  the  very 
best.  But  the  surest  guide  is  the  judges'  verdict  at 
recent  shows  for  exhibition  roses  and  those  of  the 
decorative  class,  as  shown  in  the  admirable  analysis 
drawn  up  by  Mr.  Edward  Mawley,  the  distinguished 
honorary  secretary  of  the  National  Rose  Society.  To 
this  analysis  I  have  added  a  few  of  my  own  favourites, 


SINGLE  HYBRID  TEA. 

IRISH     ELEGANCE. 


o    i 
E    CO 

CO      J^ 

X     ~ 

Hi 

_i 

(5 

Z 

05 


HYBRID  TEA. 

CAROLINE    TESTOUT. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  97 

and  some  of  the  very  newest  roses  which  have  hardly 
yet  found  their  place  in  English  shows. 

PINK  AND  ROSE  HYBRID  TEAS. — I  rejoice  to  see 
that  my  own  selection  almost  heads  the  list — the 
beautiful  Caroline  Testout-,  for  this  is  a  rose  suited 
to  every  purpose,  whether  for  exhibition,  massing  in 
the  garden,  or  growing  as  a  noble  standard.  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant  (syn.  Belle  Siebrecht)  stands  next ; 
followed  by  La  France,  Lady  Ashtoivn,  Killarney — 
but  let  this  be  grown  quite  by  itself,  as  it  is  one  of 
the  worst  roses  for  mildew — Gustave  Grunerwald,  a 
rose  I  have  not  yet  grown,  but  one  of  the  most 
satisfactory ;  Countess  of  Caledon,  Mrs.  Theodore 
Roosevelt,  Gladys  Harkness,  William  Shean,  Mme. 
Abel  Chatenay,  Mme.  Jules  Grolez,  one  of  the  most 
useful  of  rose  colour,  Papa  Lambert,  Robert  Scott. 
Others  of  the  newest  pink  roses  are  Gelia,  Gabrielle 
Pierrette,  Hon.  Ina  Bingham,  H.  Armytage  Moore, 
Marie  Girard. 

Among  crimsons  the  best  are  the  well  known  and 
beautiful  Liberty,  Marquise  de  Salisbury,  Hugh 
Dickson,  J.  B.  Clark,  Richmond,  C.  J.  Grahame, 
Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg,  Etoile  de  France,  Lady 
Rossmore,  Triumph,  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  Morgenrot, 
Bardou  Job,  The  Dandy,  Warrior,  and  two  grand 
novelties,  the  American  rose  General  Mac  Arthur, 
and  John  Laing  Paul,  little  known  as  yet,  but  certain 
to  be  widely  grown,  as  is  Ecarlate,  said  to  be  an  even 
better  rose  than  Liberty  and  Richmond. 


98  ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

In  those  remarkable  shades  of  apricot,  salmon, 
coppery-pink  and  carmine,  upon  a  yellow  or  orange 
base,  the  choice  is  very  considerable.  And  although  it 
is  as  yet  almost  unknown  in  England,  having  only  been 
sent  out  this  spring  (1908),  I  venture  to  predict  a  lead- 
ing position  in  the  near  future  for  MM.  Soupert  et 
Notting's  grand  salmon-pink  novelty,  Mme.  Segond 
Weber,  which,  for  shape,  size,  colour  and  delicious 
fragrance  is  perhaps  the  finest  rose  I  know.  Betty  is 
one  of  those  vivid  modern  roses  whose  colour,  coppery- 
rose  shaded  gold,  is  as  hard  to  describe  as  it  is 
beautiful.  While  Dorothy  Page-Roberts,  Souv.  de 
Stella  Gray,  Marquise  de  Sinety,  Mme.  Maurice 
de  Luze,  Edu  Meyer,  Countess  Annesley,  Mrs. 
Harvey  Thomas,  and  Souv.  de  Maria  Zozaya, 
are  all  remarkable  for  their  strong  and  brilliant 
colouring. 

Among  the  yellow  shades  from  palest  lemon  to  deep 
orange,  the  choice  is  not  so  great ;  but  there  are  many 
good  roses  to  choose  from,  beginning  with  the  two 
novelties  of  1907 — Pernet-Ducher's  great  Indian 
yellow  rose,  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward,  which  promises  well, 
and  Alex.  Dickson  &  Son's  brilliant  yellow  Harry 
Kirk.  Of  older  roses  few  are  better  than  the  noble 
Madame  Ravary,  Ferdinand  Batel,  the  delightful 
Gustave  Regis,  Gloire  Lyonnaise,  Duchess  of  Port- 
land, and  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria.  Mrs.  Peter 
Blair,  1906,  is  one  of  the  most  effective  yellows  for 
the  garden ;  and  I  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  that 


T 


HYBRID  TEA. 


MADAME    RAVARY. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  99 

little  known  but  very  beautiful  rose  Peace,  raised  by 
Piper  in  1903,  its  pale  lemon  yellow  flowers  borne  on 
long  upright  stalks  are  invaluable  for  cutting  through- 
out the  whole  season. 

White  and  blush  hybrid  Teas  are  many.  And  the 
famous  Bessie  Brown,  Alice  Grahame,  Mildred 
Grant,  Florence  Pemberton  >  Alice  Lindsell  and 
White  Lady  are  to  be  seen  at  every  show :  but  they 
are  all  exhibition  roses  except  Florence  Pemberton. 

Augustine  Guinoisseau,  however,  is  as  good  a 
white  garden  rose  as  heart  can  desire;  so  is  Lady 
Quartus  Ewart ;  and  as  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria 
and  Peace  are  so  faintly  lemon  as  to  be  nearly  white, 
there  is  no  difficulty  in  making  a  bed  of  white  Hybrid 
Teas. 

HYBRID   TEA   ROSES 
PINK  AND  ROSE. 

Aime*e  Cochet.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1902.     Flesh, 

with  rosy  peach  centre. 
Angel  Peluffo.     Soupert  et  Hotting,  1905.     Interior 

of  petals  rosy  flesh,  centre  rose. 
Baronin  Armgard  von  Biel.      Welter,   1906.     Satin 

pink ;    a  brighter  La  France. 
Belle  Siebrecht.     (See  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant.) 
Camoens.     Schwartz,  1882.      Bright  rich  China  rose. 
Captain  Christy.      Lacharme,   1873.     Flesh  colour, 

deeper  pink  centre. 
Caroline    Testout.      Pernet-Ducher,    1890.      Bright 

clear  rose. 


ioo         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Celia.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1906.     Bright  satin  pink, 

darker  centre. 
Countess  of  Caledon.    Alex.  Dickson,  1897.    Carmine 

rose. 
Denmark.      Ziener  Lassen.     1890.     Colour   of  La 

France. 
David  Harum.   E.  G.  Hill  &  Co.,  1904.     Rose  peach 

pink. 
Daisy.     Alex.  Dickson,  1898.     Rosy  pink,  suffused 

silvery  pink. 
Duchess  of  Albany.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1888.     Fine 

deep  pink. 
England's  Glory.     J.    Wood  d  Son,   1902.      Flesh, 

satin  pink  centre. 

Farbenkonigen.     Hinner,  1901.     Imperial  pink. 
Frau  Peter  Lambert.     Welter,  1902.     Rose,  marbled 

pink. 
Gladys  Harkness.    Alex.  Dickson,  1900.   Deep  salmon 

pink,  silvery  reverse. 
Gustave  Grtinerwald.     P.  Lambert,  1903.     Carmine 

pink. 
H.  Ajmytage  Moore.     Hugh  Dickson,  1907.     Petals 

rosy  pink  outside,  silvery  inside. 
Etelene  Welter.     Guillot,  1903.     Brilliant  rose. 
Hon.  Ina  Bingham.    Alex.  Dickson,  1905.    Pure  pink. 
Johanna  Sebus.     Dr.  Miiller,  1900.     Rosy  cerise. 
John  Ruskin.     Alex.  Dickson,  1902.     Rosy  carmine. 
Killarney.      Alex.   Dickson,    1898.     Flesh,   suffused 

shell  pink. 

Konigin  Carola.     Turke,  1904.     Rose  pink. 
Lady  Ashtown.     Alex.  Dickson,  1904.     Deep  pink. 
Lady  Moyra  Beauclerk.  Alex.  Dickson,  1901.  Madder 

rose,  with  silvery  reflexes. 

Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam.     Bennett,  1882.    Rosy  flesh. 
Lady  Helen  Vincent.     Alex.  Dickson,  1907.     Shell 

pink,  base  peach  yellow. 


HYBEID  TEA  EOSES  101 

Lady  Wenlock.    Sernaix,  1905.    Pink,  shaded  fawn. 

La  France.     Guillot,  1867.     Bright  rose  pink. 

La  Tosca.    Vve.  Schwartz,  1901.    Silvery  pink,  deeper 

centre. 
Laure  Watinne.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1902.     Bright 

rose. 
Lina  Schmidt- Michel.    Lambert,  1905.    Madder  pink, 

reverse  of  petals  carmine. 
Lohengrin.     Schmidt,   1903.      Silvery  pink,  deeper 

centre. 
Mme.  Abel  Chatenay.  Pernet-Ducher,  1895.   Carmine 

rose,  shaded  salmon. 
Mme.  Edme'e  Metz.    Soupert  et  Netting,  1901.    Eosy 

carmine,  shaded  salmon. 
Mme.  Jules  Grolez.     Guillot,  1897.     Beautiful  China 

rose. 
Mme.  Eugene  Jombart.    Schwartz,  1905.     Pale  pink, 

centre  carmine. 
Mme.  Leonie  Moissy.    Vilin,  1907.    Pale  rosy  salmon, 

deeper  centre. 

Marichu  Zayas.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1907.     Straw- 
berry and  cream,  shaded  rose. 
Maimie.    Alex.  Dickson,  1901.    Eose  carmine,  yellow 

base. 
Marianne  Pfitzer.     Jacobs,  1903.     Eosy  flesh,  tinted 

red. 
Max  Hesdorfier.    Jacobs,  1903.    Deep  rose,  bordered 

silvery  rose. 

Monsieur  Paul  Le'de'.     Pernet-Ducher,   1903.     Cin- 
namon pink,  passing  lighter. 
Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1906.     Coral 

red,  white  centre. 
Mrs.  G.  W.  Kershaw.     Alex.  Dickson,  1906.     Deep 

rose  pink. 

Mrs.    W.    J.    Grant   (syn.   Belle   Siebrecht}.      Alex. 
Dickson,  1895.     Imperial  pink. 


102         ROSES   AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Nance  Christy.     B.  R.  Cant,  1906.     Delicate  salmon 

pink,  semi-double. 

Olympiada.     Soupert  et  Hotting,  1904.     Satiny  rose. 
Papa  Lambert.      P.   Lambert,    1899.      Rose  pink, 

deeper  centre. 
Princesse   Charles   de   Ligne.     Soupert  et  Hotting, 

1903.     Silvery  pink,  carmine  centre. 
Reine  Carola  de  Saxe.     Gamon,  1903.     Flesh  pink. 
Robert  Scott.    Robert  Scott  &  Son,  1901.    Clear  rosy 

pink,  shading  to  flesh  on  outer  petals. 
Rosel  Klemm.  Hinner,  I9Q5.  Rose,  with  silvery  reflex. 
Shandon.     Alex.  Dickson,  1899.     Bright  rose. 
Sheila.     Alex.  Dickson,  1895.     Bright  rose. 
Souvenir  de  Maria  de  Zayas.     Soupert  et  Hotting, 

1906.     Vivid  carmine,  with  deeper  shading. 
Souvenir  de  Maria  Zozaya.     Soupert  et  Hotting,  1904. 

Petals  coral  red  outside,  silvery  rose  inside. 
William  Askew.    Guillot,  1902.    Bright  pink,  shaded 

delicate  pink. 
William  Notting.    Soupert  et  Hotting,  1904.    Salmon 

pink,  reverse  of  petals  coral. 
William  Shean.     Alex.  DicJcson,  1906.     Pure  pink, 

veined  ochre ;  a  grand  rose. 

SALMON  AND  COPPER  PINK. 

Antoine  Rivoire.     Fernet- Ducher,  1896.     Rosy  flesh 

on  yellow  ground. 
Betty.     Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons,  1905.     Coppery  rose, 

shaded  yellow. 
Countess  Annesley.      Alex.   Dickson,    1905.      Rosy 

salmon,  suffused  old  gold. 
Dean  Hole.     Alex.  Dickson,  1904.     Silvery  carmine, 

shaded  salmon. 
Dr.  J.  Campbell  Hall.     Alex.  Dickson,  1904.     Coral 

rose,  suffused  white. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  103 

Dorothy  Page-Roberts.  Alex.  Dickson,  1907.  Coppery 

pink. 
Earl  of  Warwick.     Paul  &  Son,  1904.     Salmon  pink, 

shaded  vermilion. 
Edu  Meyer.   Lambert,  1904.    Copper  red  and  yellow, 

with  orange  shading. 
Elizabeth   Barnes.      Alex.   Dickson,    1907.     Salmon 

rose,  fawn  centre,  outside  of  petals  deep  rose. 
Frau  Burgermeister  Kirchstein.     Jacob,  1907.     Car- 
mine, shaded  salmon. 
Frau    Ernst    Borsig.      P.    Lambert,    1907.      Rosy 

yellowish  carmine. 
Frau  Otto  Evertz.     N.  Welter,  1907.     Salmon  pink 

and  yellow. 
Friedrich  Schroder.     Hinner,  1904.     Rose,  suffused 

yellow. 
Herman    Rane.      Lambert,    1905.       Varying    from 

salmon  rose  to  yellowish  red. 
Herzog  Friedrich  von  Anhalt.     Welter,  1907.    Salmon 

carmine,  centre  copper  red. 
Jeanne  Bariaz.     Pierre  Guillot,  1907.     Pale  salmon, 

centre  vivid  salmon  on  yellow. 
Joseph  Hill.     Pernet-Ducher,  1904.      Pink,  shaded 

salmon  copper. 
Kathleen.     A  lex.  Dickson,  1895.     Coral-pink  suffused 

rose,  yellow  base. 
Mme.  Cadeau-Ramey.     Pernet-Ducher,  1897.     Rosy 

flesh,  shaded  yellow,  carmine  edges. 
Mme.  Eugene  Boullet.  Pernet-Ducher,  1898.  Yellow, 

shaded  carmine. 
Mme.   Leon   Pain.     Guillot,  1904.     Silvery  salmon, 

centre  orange,  petals  outside  salmon  pink 
Mme.     Melanie     Soupert.      Pernet-Ducher,      1906. 

Salmon  yellow,  suffused  carmine. 
Mme.    Paul   Olivier.     Pernet-Ducher,    1903.     Deep 

salmon  yellow,  shaded  rosy  carmine. 


io4         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Mme.    Segond  Weber.     Soupert    et   Netting,  1908. 

Rich  salmon  pink,  very  fine  and  distinct. 
Marguerite     Poiret.      Soupert    et    Notting,     1902. 

Bright  china  rose,  yellow  reflexes. 
Marquise  de  Sinewy.     Pernet-Ducher,  1906.     Orange 

yellow,  shaded  fiery  red. 
Monsieur     Joseph      Hill.      Pernet-Ducher,      1903. 

Salmon  pink,  shaded  yellow. 
Mrs.    Harvey   Thomas.     Bernaix,    1906.     Carmine, 

shaded  copper  red  and  yellow. 
Mrs.   John  Bateman.     Alex.  Dickson,    1905.     Deep 

china  rose,  yellow  base. 
Peggy.     Alex.     Dickson,     1905.      Claret,     smeared 

saffron  yellow  and  primrose,  semi-double. 
Pierre  Wattinne.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1902.     Cerise, 

shaded  yellow  and  salmon. 

Pribislav.     0.  Jacobs,  1902.     Orange  carmine,  pen- 
cilled scarlet. 
Prince   de  Bulgarie.      Pernet-Ducher,    1902.     Deep 

rosy  flesh,  shaded  salmon. 
Professor     Fritz    Rober.      Welter,     1906.      Salmon, 

shaded  yellow  and  rose. 
Renee      Wilmart-Urban.       Pernet-Ducher,      1907. 

Salmon  flesh,  bordered  carmine. 
Rosalind   Orr-English.     E.    G.   Hill   &    Co.,    1905. 

Bright  salmon  pink. 
Senateur  Belle.    Pernet-Ducher,  1903.    Salmon  pink, 

yellow  centre. 
Senateur   Saint   Romme.      Schwartz,    1905.      Rosy 

salmon,  shaded  yellow. 

CRIMSON  AND  CARMINE. 

Avoca.     Alex.  Dickson,  1907.     Crimson  scarlet. 
Anne  Marie   Soupert.     Soupert    et    Notting,    1904. 
Reddish  carmine. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  105 

Baldwin.     Lambert,  1898.     Pure  carmine. 
Baron  Lade.      Welter,  1904.     Bright  carmine. 
Charles  J.  Grahame.     Alex.    Dickson,    1905.     Very 

bright  scarlet  crimson. 
Cherry  Ripe.      Paul  &  Son,    1905.      Light  cherry 

crimson. 
Comtesse  Icy  Hardegg.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1908. 

Deep  red. 
Crimson  Crown.      Alex.   Dickson,    1905.      Glowing 

dark  crimson,  flowers  in  clusters. 
Ecarlate.     Boy  tar  d,  1907.     Scarlet  crimson,  brighter 

than  Liberty. 
Etoile  de  France.     Pernet-Ducher,    1905.      Velvety 

crimson,  centre  cerise. 
Exquisite.      Paul  &   Son,    1899.     Bright    crimson, 

shaded  magenta. 

General  MacArthur.     Hill,  1905.     Bright  crimson. 
George    Laing    Paul.     Soupert    et   Notting,    1904. 

Reddish  crimson. 
Grossherzog  von   Oldenburg.     Welter,  1904.     Dark 

poppy  red. 
Gruss  an  Sangerhausen.     Dr.  Muller,  1905.     Brilliant 

scarlet,  centre  crimson. 
Herzogin  Victoria  Adelheid.       Welter,  1906.      Clear 

brilliant  red. 
J.  B.  Clark.     Hugh  Dickson,  1905.     Deep   scarlet, 

heavily  shaded  black  crimson. 
Lady  Battersea.     Paul  &  Son,    1901.     Fine  cherry 

crimson. 
Lady  Rossmore.    Dr.  Campbell  Hall,  1906.    Reddish 

crimson,  claret  shading. 
Liberty.     Alex.    Dickson,    1900.      Brilliant  velvety 

crimson. 

Ma  Tulipe.     JBonnaire,  1900.     Deep  crimson. 
Mme.   J.   W.   Budde.     Soupert    et  Notting,    1907. 

Brilliant  carmine. 


io6         KOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Marquise  de  Salisbury.      Fernet  pere,  1889.     Bright 

velvety  red. 
Marquise  Litta.      Pernet-Ducher,    1894.      Carmine 

rose,  vermilion  centre. 
Mrs.  A.  M.  Kirker.     Hugh  Dickson,  1906.     Bright 

cerise. 
Eeine  Marguerite  d'ltalie.    Soupert  et  Notting,  1905. 

Shining  carmine,  centre  vermilion. 
Rev.   David  R.  Williamson.     Alex.   Dickson,  1904. 

Dark  crimson,  shaded  maroon. 
Richmond.     Hill  &  Co.,  1905.     Pure  red  scarlet. 
Rosomane  E.  P.  Roussel.     Guillot,   1907.     Brilliant 

crimson. 

Sarah  Bernhardt.     Dubreuil,  1907.     Scarlet  crimson. 
Stadtrat  F.  Kahler.     Geduldig,  1907.     Brilliant  fiery 

red. 
The  Dandy.     Paul  &  Son,  1905.     Glowing  maroon 

crimson,  miniature  flowers. 
Triumph.      J.  G.  Hill  &  Co.,  1907.      Deep  carmine 

and  crimson. 
Warrior.     Wm.    Paul  &    Son,    1906.     Buds  blood 

red,  opening  vivid  scarlet  crimson. 

YELLOW. 

Amateur    Teyssier.      Gamon,    1900.      Dark    saffron 

yellow,  changing  to  white. 

Auguste  van  der  Heede.    Welter,  1901.  Saffron  yellow. 
Duchess   of  Portland.     Alex.  Dickson,  1901.     Pale 

sulphur  yellow,  with  an  occasional  tinge  of  Eau 

de  Nil.  ' 
Ferdinand    Batel.     Pernet-Ducher,    1897.     Varying 

from  pale  rosy  flesh  on  yellow  nankeen,  to  yellow 

nankeen  orange. 
Franz  Deegen,     Hinner,  1901.     Pale  yellow,  centre 

golden  yellow. 


^< 


<  D 

•UJ  Q, 

K  DC 

Q  < 


HYBRID  TEA. 

MADAME    PERNET    DUCHER. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  107 

Friedrich  Harms.     Welter,  1901.     Pale  yellow,  with 

deep  yellow  centre. 
Gloire     Lyonnaise.       Guillot,     1884.       Very     pale 

lemon. 
Goldelse.     Hinner,  1902.     Pale  yellow,  with  deeper 

yellow  centre. 
Grossherzogin     Alexandra.      Jacobs-  Welter,     1906. 

Clear  golden  yellow. 
Gustave    Kegis.      Pernet-Ducher,     1891.      Canary 

yellow,  with  orange  centre. 

Gustave  Sobry.     Welter,  1902.     Golden  yellow,  pass- 
ing to  clear  yellow. 
Harry  Kirk.     Alex.  Dickson,  1907.     Deep  sulphur 

yellow,  lighter  edges. 
Hofgarten-director    Graebener.     P.  Lambert,   1900. 

Rosy  yellow  and  coppery  yellow. 
Instituteur    Sirday.      Pernet-Ducher,    1906.      Deep 

golden  yellow. 

Jakobs  Perle.     Jakobs,  1904.     Canary  yellow. 
Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria.     Lambert  &  Reiter,  1891. 

Beautiful  primrose. 
Le  Progres.    Pernet-Ducher,  1904.    Nankeen  yellow, 

lighter  when  fully  expanded. 
Madame   Jenny    Guillemot.     Pernet-Ducher,    1905. 

Deep  saffron  yellow. 
Madame    Pernet-Ducher.       Pernet-Ducher,     1892. 

Canary  yellow. 
Madame   Philippe    Rivoire.     Pernet-Ducher,    1905. 

Apricot  yellow,  with  lighter  centre. 
Madame  Ravary.     Pernet-Ducher,  1900.     Beautiful 

orange  yellow. 
Mrs.  David  M'Kee.     Alex.  DicJcson,  1904.     Creamy 

yellow. 
Mrs.    Peter   Blair.     Alex.   Dickson,    1906.     Lemon 

chrome,  with  golden  yellow  centre. 
Peace.     Piper,  1903.     Pale  lemon  yellow. 


io8         EOSES   AND  ROSE  GROWING 


WHITE  AND  BLUSH. 

Admiral  Dewey.     Dingee  &  Conard,  1899.     Light 

blush. 
Alice  Grahame.     Alex.  Dickson,  1903.     Ivory  white, 

tinted  salmon. 
Alice  Li ndsell.    Alex.  Dickson,  1902.    Creamy  white, 

with  pink  centre. 
Augustine  Guinoisseau.    Guinoisseau,  1889.     White, 

slightly  tinted  with  flesh. 

Bessie  Brown.     Alex.  DicJcson,  1899.     Creamy  white. 
Comte  de  Torres.     Schwartz,  1906.     Salmon  white, 

with  yellow  salmon  centre. 
Direcktor  W.  Cordes.     P.  Lambert,  1904.     Creamy 

white,  with  yellowish  centre. 
Edelstein.     Welter,  1904.     Pure  white. 
Edmund  Deshayes.     Bernaix,  1902.     Creamy  white, 

with  flesh  centre. 

Ellen  Willmot.     Bernaix,  1899.     Pale  flesh  white. 
Florence  Pemberton.     Alex.  Dickson,  1903.     Creamy 

white,  suffused  pink. 
Frau  Lilla  Rautenstrauch.    P.  Lambert,  1903.    Silvery 

white,  tinted  rose. 
Gardenia.    SoupertetNotting,I839.   White,  suffused 

pale  blush. 
Grace  Darling.    Bennett,  1884.    Creamy  white,  shaded 

peach. 
JBtelene  Guillot.     J.  R  Guillot,  1902.     Pure  white  to 

salmon  white,  tinted  carmine. 
Irene.     Wm.   Paul  &  Son,    1904.     Silvery   white, 

sometimes  faintly  touched  with  pink. 
Lady   Clanmorris.     Alex.   DicJcson,  1900.     Creamy 

white,  delicate  salmon  centre. 
Lady  Quartus  Ewart.     Hugh  Dickson,  1904.     Paper 

white. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  109 

Ligne-Arenberg.    Soupert  et  Netting,  1903.    Creamy 

white,  pink  edge. 

L'Innocence.     Pernet-Ducher,  1898.     Pure  white. 
Madame  Joseph  Combet.    J.  Bennaire,  1894.   Creamy 

white. 
Madame    Maria    Capalet.      Schwartz,    1905.      Rosy 

white,  tinted  salmon,  centre  rosy  yellowish  salmon. 
Mdlle.     Pauline     Bersez.       Fernet- Ducher,     1900. 

Creamy  white,  with  yellow  centre. 
Mdlle.  Alice  Furon.     White,  shaded  lemon. 
Marjorie.    Alex.  Dickson,  1895.    White,  suffused  with 

salmon  pink. 

Marguerite  Guillot.     P.  Guillot,  1903.     Pure  white. 
Marie  Girard.    Buateis,  1899.    White,  shaded  salmon 

yellow. 
Marquise  Jeanne  de  la  Chataigneraye.     Soupert  et 

Netting,  1902.     Silvery  white,  centre  yellow. 
Mildred  Grant.    Alex.  Dickson,  1901.    Silvery  white, 

edge  of  petals  shaded  and  bordered  with  pink. 
Mrs.  Con  way  Jones.     Alex.  Dickson,  1904.     Creamy 

white,  flushed  salmon  pink. 
Mrs.  Theodore  Roosevelt.    Hill  &  Co.,  1903.     Creamy 

white,  centre  rose. 
Pharisaer.      W.  Hinner,  1903.     Rosy  white,  shaded 

salmon. 
Pie  X.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1906.     Creamy  white, 

suffused  pale  rose. 
Robert   Baessler.     Hinner,    1904.     White,    edge   of 

petals  tinted  rose. 
Rosomane    Gravereux.     Soupert    et    Netting,   1899. 

White,  with  tinge  of  pink. 
Souv.  de  Madame  Eugenie  Verdier.     Pernet-Ducher, 

1895.     Electric  white,  shaded  saffron  yellow. 
White  Lady.    Wm.  Paul  &  Sen,  1890.    Creamy  white. 
Yvonne  Vacherot.    Soupert  et  Netting,  1906.    Porce- 
lain white,  suffused  pink. 


no         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

IRISH  SINGLE  ROSES. 
Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons. 

Irish   Beauty,    1900.      Pure    white,    bright    golden 

anthers. 
Irish  Brightness,  1903.      Vivid  crimson,  shading  to 

pink  base. 
Irish  Elegance,  1905.1     Buds  bronzy  orange-scarlet, 

opening  to  apricot,  a  very  beautiful  rose. 
Irish  Engineer,  1904.     Bright  scarlet,  large  flowers. 
Irish   Glory,    1900.      Petals    silvery   marbled    pink, 

flamed  outside  with  crimson. 
Irish  Harmony,  1904.    Variable,  saffron-yellow  veined 

claret. 

Irish  Modesty,  1900.     Coral  pink,  ecru  base  to  petals. 
Irish  Pride,  1903.     Ecru,  suffused  old  rose  and  gold. 
Irish  Star,  1903.      Rose  du  Barri,  with   lemon  star 

centre. 

1  See  Illustration. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

HYBRID    PERPETUALS 

MR.  THOMAS  RIVERS,  that  father  of  scientific  rose 
culture  in  England,  gives  a  most  interesting  account 
in  his  famous  book,  The  Rose  Amateurs  Guide, 
1840,  of  the  origin  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  rose. 

"  The  Crimson  Perpetual,  Rose  du  Roi,  or  Lee's 
Crimson  Perpetual?-  .  .  .  was  raised  from  seed,  in 
1812,  in  the  gardens  of  the  Palace  of  St.  Cloud,  then 
under  the  direction  of  Le  Comte  Lelieur,  and  named 
by  him  Rose  du  Roi.  ...  It  is  asserted  it  was 
raised  from  the  Rosa  Portlandica,  a  semi-double 
bright- coloured  rose,  much  like  the  rose  known  in 
this  country  as  the  Scarlet  Four-seasons  or  Rosa 
Pcestana. 

"  Every  gentleman's  garden  ought  to  have  a 
large  bed  of  Crimson  Perpetual  Roses,  to  furnish 
bouquets  during  August,  September,  and  October; 
their  fragrance  is  so  delightful,  their  colour  so  rich, 
and  their  form  so  perfect." 

1  This  rose,  which  belongs  to  the  group  of  Damask  Perpetual 
roses,  R.  Damascene*,  is  still  cultivated  under  the  same  name. 
Messrs.  Wm.  Paul  &  Son  say  "this  was  formerly  a  favourite 
group  of  autumnal  roses." 

ITT 


EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

What  would  that  great  pioneer  say  to  our  Crimson 
Perpetuals  of  to-day  ? 

But  though  this  rose  was  the  first,  and  probably 
the  parent  of  many  of  the  earlier  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
the  true  development  of  this  glorious  race  took  place 
by  other  means.  The  Hybrid  Chinas,1  such  as  Blairii 
No.  2,  Ghenedole,  Brennus,  and  many  others,  now,  as 
I  have  said,  most  unjustly  neglected,  were  the  off- 
spring of  the  China  rose,  R.  Indica,  crossed  with  the 
"Provence  and  other  hardy  summer  flowering  roses. 
These  were  not  perpetual,  with  the  notable  exception 
of  Gloire  de  Rosamenes.  But  several  of  them  bore 
seed  freely.  These  fertile  varieties  were  again  crossed 
with  different  kinds  of  China  and  Bourbon  roses. 
And  their  seed  produced  the  new  race  of  strong,  hardy 
roses,  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  flowering  through  the 
whole  summer  and  autumn. 

Of  those  early  parents  of  this  fine  race  but  very 
few  are  known  now.  Gloire  de  Rosamenes  (Vibert, 
1823)  is  still  in  cultivation.  But  in  vain  I  search 
English  and  French  catalogues  for  those  marked  by 
my  father  in  1844  in  Mr.  Rivers'  book.  Where 
is  Mme.  Laffay,  1839,  with  its  fine  foliage  and  rosy- 
crimson,  highly  fragrant  flowers ;  or  Fulgorie ;  or 
Rivers,  with  its  large  red  flowers  "  produced  in 
clusters  of  great  beauty";  or  La  Reine,  1843;  or 
William  Jesse  ?  Probably  they  still  exist  as  "  old 
and  nameless  roses"  in  my  own  and  many  other 
1  See  p.  57. 


HYBRID  PERPETUALS  113 

gardens.  Yet  one  would  like  to  give  them  back 
the  names  and  honourable  places  they  possessed 
in  one's  childhood,  and  compare  them  with  their 
splendid  descendants.  In  fragrance  they  would 
certainly  hold  their  own ;  for  the  fragrance  of  their 
Damask  grandparent  was  stronger  in  them  than 
in  too  many  of  the  modern  Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

The  great  development  in  the  race  began  in  the 
fifties,  and  was  at  its  height  in  the  sixties  and 
seventies :  but  for  the  last  fifteen  years  and  more 
the  tide  has  turned  in  favour  of  the  Hybrid  Teas ; 
and  comparatively  few  new  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are 
raised  each  year.  In  1853,  Margottin  gave  the 
enchanted  rose-world  Jules  Margottin,  parent  of 
many  most  excellent  roses.  And  in  the  same  year 
the  delightful  General  Jacqueminot  was  raised  by 
Roussel,  and  became  the  parent  of  many  of  our 
finest  deep  reds.  Then  in  1859  came  Lacharme's 
famous  Victor  Verdier,  a  rose  still  in  favour,  and 
one  to  which  the  class  owes,  perhaps,  more  than 
any  other  as  a  parent.  And  in  1861  came  Charles 
Lefebvre;  also  raised  by  Lacharme. 

From  that  date  new  and  magnificent  roses  were 
sent  out  in  numbers  every  year  by  the  well-known 
French  and  Continental  houses  of  Lacharme,  Verdier, 
Pernet,  Gautreau,  Liabaud,  Guillot,  Postans,  Levet, 
Margottin,  Rambaud,  Leveque,  Jamain,  Schwartz, 
Soupert  et  Notting.  And  in  England  by  Messrs. 
Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  B.  R.  Cant  &  Sons,  Bennett, 


ii4         ROSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 

Laxton,  Paul  &  Son,  Cocker,  Alex.  Dickson  &  Sons, 
Turner,  Hugh  Dickson,  Cooling,  Harkness,  Ward,  etc. 
While,  in  1901,  Lambert  produced  that  grandest  of 
white  roses,  Frau  Karl  Druscliki. 

The  pure  pinks,  and  the  rich  crimsons  and  scarlets 
of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  of  surpassing  beauty. 
And  though  there  is  a  craze  just  now  for  Hybrid 
Teas,  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  must  for  ever  hold  its 
own  in  the  garden  on  its  own  lines.  For  it  will 
flourish  where  the  more  tender  race  would  die ; 
and  its  magnificent  size,  colour,  strong  growth,  and 
rich  foliage,  must  always  render  it  indispensable  for 
decoration  and  as  a  cut  flower. 

As  with  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas,  these  roses 
create  their  finest  effect  in  the  garden  when  grouped 
together  in  beds  of  one  colour.  And  if  we  wish  to 
specialize  yet  further  in  the  matter  of  colours,  they 
may  be  graduated  from  dark  to  light,  or  light  to  dark, 
with  admirable  success.  A  magnificent  bed  may  be 
filled  with  such  crimsons,  scarlets,  and  cherry  reds 
as  the  following,  beginning  with  dark  and  medium 
crimsons,  A.  K.  Williams,  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
Duke  of  Wellington,  Dr.  Andry,  Charles  Lefebvre, 
Countess  of  Oxford,  Fisher  Holmes,  Louis  Van 
Houtte,  Mrs.  Harry  Turner,  Victor  Hugo ;  and 
the  lighter  crimsons,  Alfred  Colomb,  Beauty  of 
Waltham,  Captain  Hayward,  Duchess  of  Bedford, 
Duke  of  TecJc,  Dupuy  Jarnain,  General  Jacque- 
minot, Gloire  de  Margottin,  Hugh  Dickson,  Marie 


o. 

o:  * 

UJ 

Q-  D 

Q  < 

E  DC 


HYBRID  PERPETUAL. 

ULRICH    BRUNNER. 


HYBRID   PERPETUALS  115 

Baumann,    Senateur    Vaisse,    Star    of   Waltham, 
Ulrich  Brunner. 

Other  yet  darker  crimson  roses,  with  maroon  or 
purple  shading,  are  Abel  Carriers,  Black  Prince, 
Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  Xavier  Olibo. 

For  a  very  effective  rose-pink  and  carmine  bed 
we  may  use  Francois  Michelon,  Helen  Keller ,  John 
Hopper,  Jules  Margottin,  Magna  Charta,  Marquise 
de  Castellane,  Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi,  Victor 
Verdier. 

A  pure  pink  bed  is  most  attractive,  when  filled 
with  such  lovely  roses  as  Baroness  Rothschild,  Mdlle. 
Eugenie  Verdier,  Mrs.  Sharman  Crawford,  Mrs. 
John  Laing,  Pride  of  Waltham.  And  although 
Captain  Christy  is  now,  wisely,  called  a  Hybrid 
Tea,  it  has  so  much  the  h&bit  of  the  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals,  that  it  really  goes  better  in  a  bed  with  them 
than  among  the  more  delicate-foliaged  Teas. 

For  a  white  and  pale  blush  bed  we  have  the  pure 
white  Boule  de  Neige,  Coquette  des  Blanches  (both 
Dwarf  Hybrid  Noisettes),  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  and 
Marchioness  of  Londonderry,  which  is  very  beauti- 
ful when  it  does  well,  though  this  is  not  always  the 
case. 

And  for  white  with  a  faint  blush,  Margaret 
DicJcson  and  Merveille  de  Lyon,  though  these  are 
sadly  given  to  mildew.  But  for  sheer  effect  and 
mass  of  bloom,  a  bed  of  Frau  Karl  Druschki  is 
unequalled.  If  the  long  shoots  are  pegged  down 


n6         EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

every  bud  upon  them  will  throw  a  flower-shoot, 
producing  a  sheet  of  blossom  throughout  the  whole 
season. 

Another  very  effective  arrangement  may  be  made 
by  gradating  a  broad  border  from  a  white  centre, 
through  clear  pinks  on  either  side  to  bright  scarlets, 
and  ending  at  each  extremity  with  deepest  crimsons. 
This  I  have  seen  carried  out  successfully  with  a  central 
group  of  Frau  Karl  DruschJci,  flanked  on  either  side 
by  the  clear  pinks  of  Mrs.  Sharman  Crawford  and 
Mrs.  John  Laing,  and  beyond  them,  right  and  left, 
General  Jacqueminot,  Francois  Michelon,  Prince 
Camille  de  Rohan,  Fisher  Holmes,  Duke  of  Edin- 
burgh, Mrs.  Harry  Turner,  Dr.  Andry,  Duke  of 
Wellington,  Victor  Hugo,  Captain  Hayward,  Duke 
of  Teck,  Horace  Vernet. 

As  standards  many  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
make  grand  heads,  their  sturdy  constitution  being 
particularly  suitable  to  this  form  of  growth. 

Among  the  best  for  this  purpose  are,  Captain 
Hayward,  Charles  Lefebvre,  Clio,  Dr.  Andry, 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Dupuy  Jamain,  Ferdinand 
de  Lesseps,  Fisher  Holmes,  Frau  Karl  Druschki, 
General  Jacqueminot,  Gloire  de  Margottin,  Hein- 
rich  Schultheis,  Hugh  Dickson,  Mme.  Gabriel 
Luizet,  Mme.  Victor  Verdier,  Margaret  Dickson, 
Marie  Baumann,  Mrs.  Cocker,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford,  Paul  Jamain, 
Pride  of  Waltham,  Prince  Arthur,  Prince  Camille 


HYBKID  PERPETUALS  117 

de     Rohan,    Senateur     Vaisse,     Suzanne     Marie 
Rodocanachi,  Ulrich  Brunner. 

Besides  those  dwarfs  I  have  enumerated  as  par- 
ticularly good  for  massing  in  colour,  many  other 
excellent  roses  for  general  use  will  be  found  in  the 
following  lists. 

HYBRID   PERPETUAL   ROSES 
RED. 

Abel  Carriere.     E.  Verdier,  1875.     Purple  crimson, 

fiery  red  centre. 

Alfred  Colomb.    Lacharme,  1865.    Bright  carmine  red. 
Alfred  K.  Williams.     Schwartz,  1877.     Bright  car- 
mine red ;  an  exhibitor's  rose. 
Baron  de  Bonstetten.      Liabaud,    1871.      Blackish 

crimson. 

Ben  Cant.   B.  R.  Cant  &  Sons,  1902.    Deep  crimson, 
Beauty  of  Waltham.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1862.    Rosy 

crimson. 
Black  Prince.       Wm.   Paul  &  Son,    1866.      Deep 

blackish  crimson. 
Camille  Bernadin.     Gautreau,  1865.    Light  crimson, 

paler  edges. 
Captain  Hay  ward.     Bennett,  1893.     Scarlet  crimson, 

sweet  scented. 

Charles  Darwin.     Laxton,  1879.     Brownish  crimson. 
Charles  L  ef eb vr e.    Lacharme,  1861.    Brilliant  velvety 

crimson. 
Commandant  Felix  Faure.    Boutigny,  1902.    Crimson, 

flushed  lake. 

Comte  de  Raimbaud.    Roland,  1867.     Clear  crimson. 
Comtesse   de   Ludre.       V     Verdier,    1880.       Light 

crimson. 


n8         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Countess  of  Oxford.     Guillot,  1869.     Bright  carmine 

red. 
Dr.    Andry.      E.    Verdier,    1864.      Deep    carmine 

red. 
Dr.  Sewell.    Turner,  1879.    Maroon  crimson,  reflexes 

bright  red. 

Duchess  of  Bedford.     Postans,  1879.     Velvety  crim- 
son, suffused  scarlet. 
Duke   of  Connaught.     Paul  &  Son,   1876.     Bright 

velvety  crimson. 
Duke  of  Edinburgh.      Paul  &  Son,  1868.     Scarlet 

crimson. 
Duke  of  Teck.     Paul  &  Son,  1880.     Bright  crimson 

scarlet. 
Duke  of  Wellington.     Granger,  1864.     Velvet  red, 

shaded  crimson. 

DupuyJamain.     Jamain,  1868.     Very  bright  cerise. 
Earl  of  Dufferin.    Alex.  Dickson,  1887.    Rich  velvety 

crimson. 

Eclair.     Lacharme,  1883.     Vivid  fiery  red. 
Etienne  Levet.     Levet,  1871.     Carmine  red. 
E.  Y.  Teas.     E.  Verdier,  1874.     Very  bright  red. 
Fisher  Holmes.     E.  Verdier,  1865.     Shaded  crimson 

scarlet. 
General    Jacqueminot.       Roussel,    1853.      Brilliant 

scarlet  crimson ;  a  noble  old  rose. 
Gustave  Piganeau.     Pernet-Ducher,  1889.     Brilliant 

shaded  carmine ;  chiefly  an  exhibitor's  rose. 
Horace   Vernet.      Guillot,   1866.      Crimson   scarlet, 

dark  shading. 
Hugh  Dickson.      Hugh  Dickson,    1904.      Crimson, 

shaded  scarlet. 
Hugh   Watson.      Alex.    Dickson,    1904.      Crimson, 

shaded  carmine. 
J.  B.   Clark.     Hugh  Dickson,   1905.     Deep  scarlet, 

shaded  plum. 


<     UJ 


CL     D 

9    ° 

cc. 


HYBKID   PERPETUALS  119 

Jean   Soupert.       Laeharme,    1876.       Deep   velvety 

purple. 
Jules  Margottin.     Margottin,  1853.     Bright  cherry 

red. 
Lady  Helen  Stewart.     Alex.  Dickson,  1887.     Bright 

crimson,  shaded  scarlet. 
Le  Havre.    Eude,  1871.     Vermilion  red. 
Louis  Ricard.      Boutigny,    1902.      Velvet  crimson, 

shaded  vermilion  and  black. 
Louis  Van  Houtte.    Laeharme,  1869.    Deep  crimson, 

shaded  maroon. 
Madame  Crapelet.     Fontaine,  1859.     Beautiful  light 

crimson. 
Madame  Victor  Verdier.     E.  Verdier,  1863.     Bright 

cherry  red  ;  still  one  of  the  best. 
Maharajah.    B.  R.  Cant  &  Sons,  1904.    Large  single 

flowers,  deep  velvet  crimson ;  a  very  fine  pillar 

rose. 

Marie  Baumann.    Baumann,  1863.    Soft  carmine  red. 
Marie  Rady.     Fontaine,  1865.     Brilliant  red. 
Maurice  Bernadin  (syn.  Exposition  de  Brie).    Granger, 

1861.     Shaded  crimson. 
M.  H.  Walsh.   Alex.  Dickson,  1905.   Velvety  crimson, 

suffused  scarlet. 
Oberhofgartener  A.  Singer.    P.  Lambert,  1904.    Pure 

carmine,  darker  centre. 
Prince    Arthur.      B.   R.    Cant,    1875.      Rich   deep 

crimson. 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan.     E.  Verdier,  1861.     Crim- 
son maroon. 
Reynolds  Hole.    Paul  &  Son,  1873.    Maroon,  shaded 

crimson ;  an  exhibitor's  rose. 
Ruhm  der  Gartenwelt.     Jacobs,   1904.     Dark  pure 

red. 
Senateur  Vaisse.     Guillot,  1859.     Fine  dazzling  red; 

one  of  the  best  still. 


120         EOSES  AND  KOSE  GEOWING 

Sir  Eowland  Hill.      Mack,  1888.     Kich  port  wine, 

shaded  maroon. 
Star  of  Waltham.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1875.     Deep 

crimson. 
T.  B.  Haywood.    Paul  &  Son,  1895.    Crimson  scarlet, 

dark  shading. 

Tom  Wood.     Alex.  Dickson,  1896.     Cherry  red. 
Ulrich  Brunner.     Levet,  1881.      Bright  cherry  red ; 

fragrant,  excellent. 

Urania.      Walsh,  1906.     Cherry  crimson. 
Victor  Hugo.     Schwartz,  1884.     Dazzling  crimson. 
Xavier   Olibo.      Lacharme,    1864.      Velvety   black, 

shaded  amaranth. 

EOSE. 

American  Beauty.    Bancroft,  1886.   Deep  rose;  needs 

fine  weather. 
Annie  Laxton.     Laxton,  1872.     Clear  rose,  flushed 

cherry. 
Countess  of  Eosebery.     Postans,  1879.    Deep  salmon 

rose. 
David  E.  Williamson.    Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1905.    Soft 

rich  carmine  rose. 
Duchesse  de  Morny.     E.    Verdier,   1863.     Delicate 

bright  rose. 
Fran9ois  Michelon.     Levet,  1871.     Deep  rose,  reverse 

of  petals  silver. 
Heinrich  Schultheis.    Bennett,  1882.    Delicate  pinkish 

rose. 

Helen  Keller.     Alex.  Dickson,  1895.     Eose  cerise. 
John  Hopper.      Ward,    1862.     Bright  rose,   reverse 

pale  lilac. 
Madame  Eugene  Verdier.    E.  Verdier,  1878.    Bright 

silvery  rose. 
Magna  Charta.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1876.    Bright  rose. 


HYBRID  PERPETUALS  121 

Marie  Finger.  Rambaud,  1873.  Light  salmon  rose, 
deeper  centre. 

Marie  Verdier.     E.  Verdier,  1877.     Pure  rose. 

Marquise  de  Castellane.  Fernet,  1869.  Bright  clear 
rose. 

Suzanne  Marie  Rodocanachi.  LevSque,  1883.  Glow- 
ing rose ;  one  of  the  best. 

Ulster.     Alex.  Dickson,  1899.     Salmon  pink. 

PINK. 

Baroness  Rothschild.     Fernet,  1867.     Light  pink. 
Clio.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1894.     Pale  flesh,  deeper 

centre. 
Dr.    William   Gordon.       Wm.  Paul  &  Son,    1905. 

Brilliant  satin  pink. 

Her  Majesty.     Bennett,  1885.     Pale  rose  pink. 
Jeannie  Dickson.    Alex.  Dickson,  1890.     Rosy  pink, 

edged  silvery  pink. 
Lady  Overtown.     H.  Dickson,   1906.     Pale  salmon 

pink,  centre  silvery  pink. 
Laurence  Allen.     Cooling,   1896.      Clear  soft  pink, 

lighter  shading. 
Madame    Gabriel    Luizet.      Liabaud,  1877.      Light 

silvery  pink. 
Marchioness  of  Downshire.      Alex.   Dickson,    1894. 

Beautiful  satin  pink. 
Mrs.  Cocker.     Cocker,  1899.     Soft  pink. 
Mrs.  John  Laing.     Bennett,  1887.     Soft  pink;  one 

of  the  best. 
Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  Crawford.    Alex.  Dickson,  1894. 

Clear  rosy  pink ;  one  of  the  best. 
Mrs.  Rumsey.     Rumsey,  1897.     Rosy  pink. 
Pride  of  Waltham.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1881.     Deli- 
cate flesh,  shaded  bright  rose  pink. 
Rosslyn.     Alex.  Dickson,  1900.     Delicate  rosy  flesh. 


122         KOSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 


WHITE  AKD  BLUSH. 

Bertha  Giemen.      Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1899.     Creamy 

white  sport  from  Marchioness  of  Dufferin. 
Boule  de  Neige  (Noisette).      Lacharme,  1867.     Pure 

white. 

Frau  Karl  Druschki.     Lambert,  1900.     Snow  white. 
Mabel  Morrison.    Broughton,  1878.    Pure  white,  not 

much  substance. 
Mademoiselle  Rene'e  Denis.     Chedane,  1907.    White, 

shaded  rose. 
Marchioness  of  Londonderry.     Alex.  DicJcson,  1893. 

Ivory  white. 
Margaret  Dickson.     Alex.   DicJcson,    1891.     White, 

pale  flesh  centre. 
Merveille  de  Lyon.     Fernet,   1882.     White,  centre 

slightly  rosy  peach. 
Perfection   des   Blanches.      Schwartz,    1873.      Pure 

white. 
White  Baroness.     Paul  &  Son,  1883.     Pure  white. 


CHAPTER  IX 

BOURBON,    CHINA,    AND   POLYANTHA   ROSES 

BESIDES  the  three  great  races  of  perpetual  flowering 
Roses,  the  Teas,  Hybrid  Teas,  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
on  which  the  chief  interest  of  the  modern  rose-world 
is  centred  at  the  present  time,  there  are  other  per- 
petual flowering  roses,  which  are  of  great  importance 
both  for  their  value  in  the  past  and  their  beauty  in 
the  present.  For  although  the  modern  hybrids  have 
somewhat  obscured  the  fame  of  their  ancestors,  many 
of  them  owe  their  origin  to  the  Bourbon  and  China 
roses,  which,  in  the  early  years  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  before  the  advent  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  were 
almost  the  only  autumn  flowering  roses  on  which  to 
depend. 

THE  BOURBON  ROSE,  R.  Bourboniana. 

According  to  that  invaluable  book,1  to  which  I  owe 
an  untold  debt  of  gratitude  since  I  first  began  to 
study  rose-growing  seriously — the  original  Bourbon, 
"  a  beautiful  semi-double  rose,  with  brilliant  rose- 

1  Rivers'  Rose  Amateur's  Guide. 
123 


i24         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

coloured  flowers,  prominent  buds,  and  nearly  ever- 
green foliage,"  was  discovered  in  the  Isle  of  Bourbon. 

It  appears  that  the  land  there  was — probably  is 
still — enclosed  by  "  hedges  made  of  two  rows  of  roses, 
one  row  of  the  common  China  Rose,  the  other  of  the 
Red  Four  Seasons,  the  Perpetual  Damask."  In 
planting  one  of  these  hedges,  a  proprietor  found  a 
rose  quite  different  in  appearance  to  the  rest  of  his 
young  plants,  and  transferred  it  to  his  garden.  Here 
it  flowered,  and  proved  to  be  a  new  type,  evidently  a 
seedling  from  the  two  sorts,  which  were  the  only 
ones  known  in  the  island.  "  M.  Bre'on  arrived  at 
Bourbon  in  1817,  as  botanical  traveller  for  the 
Government  of  France,  and  curator  of  the  Botanical 
and  Naturalization  Garden  there.  He  propagated 
this  rose  very  largely ;  and  sent  plants  and  seeds  of 
it  in  1822  to  Monsieur  Jacques,  gardener  at  the 
Chateau  de  Neuilly,  near  Paris,  who  distributed  it 
among  the  rose  cultivators  of  France.  M.  Breon 
named  it  '  Rose  de  1'Isle  Bourbon/  and  is  convinced 
that  it  is  a  hybrid  from  one  of  the  above  roses,  and  a 
native  of  the  island." 

The  true  Bourbon  roses  are  thoroughly  perpetual, 
with  rose,  blush,  or  white  flowers,  smooth  solid  stems, 
and  dark,  almost  evergreen,  foliage.  One  has  only  to 
mention  the  well-known  and  well-beloved  Souvenir 
de  la  Malmaison  to  recall  the  type.  Gloire  de 
Rosamenes1  is  a  hybrid,  as  I  have  said:  butHermosa, 
1  See  p.  57. 


BOURBON. 
SOUVENIR    DE    LA    MALMAISON. 


BOUKBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA     125 

or  Armosa  (1840),  and  the  charming  Mrs.  Bosanquet 
(1832),  often  classed  among  the  China  roses,  are  pure 
Bourbons,  and  so  are  Mme.  Isaac  Pereire,  Mrs.  Paul 
(1891),  Queen  of  the  Bourbons,  Boule  de  Neige, 
Setina  a  climbing  form  of  Hermosa,  and  Zephirine 
Drouhin  (1873),  a  good  climbing  rose.  Hermosa, 
which  is  constantly  mistaken  for  a  very  full,  globular 
pink  China,  is  an  excellent  rose  for  massing  in  the 
garden,  as  it  is  in  continuous  bloom  from  spring  till 
late  autumn,  the  dwarf,  bushy  plants  being  covered 
with  flowers.  The  charming  hybrid  Tea  rose,  Camoens, 
which  resembles  it  in  habit,  but  is  a  rather  larger 
flower  of  a  rich  China  pink,  may  also  be  used  in  the 
same  way.  A  group  of  small  beds  arranged  in  a 
simple  geometrical  pattern,  and  planted  with  either 
or  both  these  roses,  is  an  extremely  pretty  feature  in 
the  garden.  Hermosa  has  been  for  years  largely  used 
in  this  way  on  the  Continent  and  in  England;  for 
instance,  20,000  have  been  planted  in  the  Sandring- 
ham  gardens  alone.  But  I  was  told  last  year  in 
Luxembourg,  that  in  Holland,  where  it  is  most 
popular,  Camoens  is  almost  superseding  it;  one 
Dutch  lady  who  had  a  large  portion  of  her  garden 
planted  with  nothing  but  Hermosa,  is  now  using 
hundreds  of  Camoens  in  the  same  way,  as  it  is 
equally  generous  in  bloom,  richer  in  colour,  and  as 
neat  and  strong  in  growth. 


126         ROSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

THE  CHINA  ROSE,  R.  Indica. 
THE  CRIMSON  CHINA  ROSE,  R.  Semper flor  ens. 

These  old  favourites  were  introduced  into  England 
in  the  eighteenth  century.  The  Old  Blush  Monthly 
came  first,  in  1718  ;  and.  in  1789  the  Old  Crimson 
(R.  Semperftorens),  a  much  less  vigorous  plant, 
arrived.  It  is  not  surprising  that  both  should  have 
found  instant  popularity ;  for  roses  which  in  warm 
situations  are  practically  in  flower  the  whole  year 
through,  must  indeed  have  been  precious  adjuncts 
to  the  gardens  of  those  days.  In  England  they  were 
popularly  known  as  "  Monthly  roses  " ;  while  in  France 
they  are  known  as  Rosiers  du  Bengal. 

THE  "COMMON"  CHINA,  OR  MONTHLY  ROSE  (1796), 

though  it  has  many  newer  rivals,  is  one  of  those  which 
has  never  gone  out  of  favour,  and  justly  so  ;  for  what 
can  be  more  pure  and  lovely  than  it  is  when  well 
grown.  Either  as  a  bedder,  or  a  bush  in  the  herbaceous 
border,  or,  still  more,  when  grown  as  a  dwarf  hedge, 
its  fresh  loveliness  is  a  never-ending  delight.  Indeed, 
one  wonders  why  it  is  not  more  generally  used  in 
England  in  this  last  manner ;  for  both  in  the  South 
of  France  and  Switzerland,  hedges  of  the  pink  Monthly 
rose  are  common,  and  of  exceeding  beauty.  Cramoisie 
Superieure(183£),  a  form  of  the  Crimson  China,  should 
be  grown  in  masses,  as  its  weak  and  straggling  growth 
is  unsuited  to  the  above  purposes.  But  many  of  the 


o 


BOURBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA     127 

newer  varieties  are  admirable  in  whatever  way  they 
are  used.  Laurette  Messimy  (1887),  rose,  shaded 
yellow,  and  Madame  Eugene  Resal  (1895),  copper 
and  bright  China-rose,  are  two  of  the  very  best  of  these, 
and  are  brilliantly  effective  as  bedding  roses.  So  are  the 
rosy-apricot  Queen  Mob  (1906),  and  the  yellow-apricot 
and  orange  Arethusa  (1903).  Comtesse  du  Cayla 
(1902)  is  a  fine  carmine  crimson,  with  orange  on  the 
outer  petals,  varying  to  orange-yellow  shaded  carmine. 
Cora  is  a  pretty  clear  yellow,  often  tinted  carmine,  a 
rose  of  a  charming  habit.  Le  Vesuve  bears  some 
flowers  rich  crimson  and  some  rosy  pink.  Ducher 
(1869)  is  the  best  white;  Frau  Syndica  Rcdoffs, 
yellow,  shaded  coppery-red  and  peach ;  Nabonnand, 
a  large  flower,  velvety  purple-red,  shaded  coppery- 
yellow.  Souvenir  d'Aimee  Terr  el  des  Chenes  is  a 
small,  beautiful,  and  well-shaped  flower,  coppery- 
pink,  shaded  carmine,  the  pointed  buds  being  golden 
yellow.  Climbing  Cramoisie  Superieure  and  Field 
Marshal  are  both  deep  crimson  climbers,  but  the  last 
does  best  under  a  glass  or  in  a  warm  position  out  of 
doors. 

We  now  come  to  a  quite  modern  class  of  perpetual 
flowering  roses,  which  is  as  yet  too  little  known, 
except  among  those  ardent  rose-growers  who  keep 
closely  in  touch  with  the  marvels  of  modern  hybrid- 
ization. And  this  special  race  is  indeed  one  of  its 
most  extraordinary  results.  For 


128         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

THE  DWARF  POLYANTHA  ROSES,  R.  Multiflora, 
are  derived  from  the  summer  flowering,  climbing 
Multiflora,  and  in  them  we  get  a  first  cousin  of,  say, 
Crimson  Rambler,  so  dwarf  as  to  make  a  charming 
two-feet  high  edging  to  an  ordinary  rose-bed,  and 
so  thoroughly  perpetual,  that  from  May  to  December 
it  is  thickly  covered  with  its  hundreds  of  miniature 
flowers  in  clusters.  How  these  tiny  roses,  which 
remind  one  of  the  "  Fairy  Rose  "  of  long-ago  nursery 
days,  came  into  being  is  not  exactly  known.  But 
they  were  evidently  the  result  of  crossings  with  the 
Tea  rose  strain.  M.  J.  B.  Guillot  developed  the 
first,  Ma  Paquerette,  pure  white,  flowering  in  large 
bunches,  in  1875.  In  1879,  Rambaux  followed  with 
the  charming  Anna  Maria  de  Montr  avel,  one  of  the 
best  known  of  the  class.  The  next  year  Ducher 
brought  out  the  lovely  Cecile  Brunner,  blush,  shaded 
pink,  and  the  race  was  fully  recognized.  Since  then 
nearly  every  year  has  seen  fresh  varieties ;  and  the 
charming  little  plants  are  growing  in  favour. 

These  roses  may  be  roughly  divided  into  two 
classes :  one  showing  the  Polyantha  blood  very 
strongly;  the  other  the  Tea  blood. 

In  the  first,  the  flowers,  whether  double  or  single, 
are  borne  in  dense  upright  clusters,  after  the  manner 
of  the  true  Multiflora.  Some  of  the  best  of  these 
are  Gloire  des  Polyantha;  Schneewittchen ;  the  fine 
Mme.  N.  Levavasseur,  really  a  miniature  Crimson 


DWARF  POLYANTHA. 

PERLE    D'OR. 


BOUKBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA    129 

Rambler;  the  even  more  attractive  Mrs.  W.  H. 
Cutbush,  a  bright  pink  Crimson  Rambler;  and 
the  exquisite  little  Baby  Dorothy,  which  has  created 
such  a  sensation  as  a  pot  plant  since  it  was  shown 
in  the  spring  of  1907.  These  are  all  admirably 
fitted  for  planting  in  masses.  In  the  famous  Pepiniere, 
or  Public  Gardens  of  Nancy,  beds  of  Madame  N. 
Levavasseur  last  autumn  (1907)  were  remarkably 
effective.  In  one  the  ground  was  thickly  covered 
among  the  plants  with  a  very  dwarf  grey-blue 
Ageratum ;  and  the  effect  of  the  erect  crimson 
clusters  of  the  rose  over  the  soft  grey  flowers 
was  most  striking ;  while  another  bed  of  the  same 
rose  was  edged  with  a  dwarf  bronze-foliaged  fibrous 
Begonia.  Even  more  charming  was  a  whole  bed  of 
Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush,  which  I  saw  in  MM.  Soupert  et 
Notting's  garden  at  Luxembourg,  the  rich  rosy  colour 
being  much  finer. 

In  the  other  class  the  Tea  blood  is  shown  as 
strongly ;  the  flowers  are  borne  singly,  or  at  most  in 
heads  of  four  or  five,  on  smooth  and  delicate  yet  firm 
little  stalks  ;  while  the  foliage  is  that  of  a  miniature 
Tea  rose.  These  as  to  the  actual  blossoms  are  per- 
haps even  more  attractive.  For  what  can  be  prettier 
than  a  perfectly  formed  flower  the  size  of  a  Fairy 
rose — and  sweetly  seented  too — such  as  those  of 
jBtoile  d'Or,  lemon  shaded  with  sulphur;  or  Perle 
d'Or,  nankeen  yellow  with  orange  centre ;  or  Eugenie 

Lamesch,   coppery  pink;    or    the    beautiful   Cecile 
9 


130         ROSES  AND  EOSE  GROWING 

Brunner,  its  well-shaped  flowers  blush  with  a  deeper 
pink  centre  ? 

In  one  or  two  we  get  an  example  of  the  double 
strain.  For  the  velvety  crimson  flowers  of  Perle 
des  Rouges  are  borne  in  clusters,  though  in  substance 
and  foliage  the  plant  appears  to  take  after  the  Tea  rose. 

But  I  deprecate  the  tendency  which  I  see  among 
some  varieties,  to  produce  much  larger  flowers  such 
as  those  of  Clothilde  Soupert  and  Georges  Fernet. 
This  quite  alters  the  character  of  the  pretty  little 
plants ;  giving  us  a  rose  that  is  neither  one  thing  or 
another,  neither  a  fine  bedding  rose  or  a  miniature 
edging  rose. 

BOURBON  ROSES,  R.  Bourboniana. 

Baron  Gonella.     Quillot  pere,  1839.     Violet  rose. 
Baronne  de  Maynard.     One  of  the  best  white  roses. 
Catherine  Guillot.     Guillotfils,  1861.     Purple  red. 
Comtesse  de  Barbantane.     Guillot  per e,  1859.     Flesh 

colour. 
Gloire  de  Rosam&nes.    Vibert,  1825.    Scarlet  crimson, 

semi-double. 

Hermosa  (Armosa).    Marcheseau,  1840.     Deep  pink. 
J.  B.  M.  Camm.     Pale  salmon  pink. 
Kronprinsessin   Victoria.     L.    Spath,    1888.     Milky 

white  outside,  sulphur-yellow  centre. 
Lorna  Doone.    Wm.  Paul  &  Son.    Magenta  carmine, 

shaded  scarlet. 
Madame    Isaac    Pereire.     Margoitin,    1880.      Rosy 

carmine. 
Madame   Pierre   Oger.     Oger,  1879.     Cream  white, 

shaded  and  edged  lilac. 


BOUKBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA     131 

Marie   Pare.      Pavie,    1880.      Flesh   colour,    deeper 

centre. 
Mrs.  Allen  Chandler.     Cliandler,  1904.     Pure  white 

sport  from  Mrs.  Paul. 

Mrs.  Bosanquet.     Laffay,  1832.     Salmon  white. 
Mrs.  Paul.     Paul  d  Son,  1892.     Pinkish  white;  a 

fine  rose. 

Paxton.     Laffay,  1852.     Fiery  rose. 
Philemon  Cochet.     Gochet,  1896.     Bright  rose. 
Queen  of  the  Bourbons.    Mauger,  1852.    Salmon  rose. 
Queen  of  Bedders.     Nobbe,  1878.     Deep  crimson. 
Reine  Victoria.     Schwartz,  1878.     Bright  rose,  per- 
fect form. 
Setina.     Henderson,  1879.     Pink,  a   climbing  Her- 

mosa. 
Souv.  de  la  Malmaison.     Beluze,  1843.     Tender  flesh 

white. 
Souv.   de   la  Malmaison  rose.      Verschaffelt,    1862. 

Fine  rose  colour. 
Zephirine  Drouhin,      Bizot,    1873.      Bright  silvery 

pink. 

CHINA  OR  BENGAL  ROSES,  R.  Indica. 
R.  Semperflorens. 

Abbe   Cretin.     Mille-Toussaint,  1906.     Light  rose, 

shaded  salmon. 

Alexina.     Beluze,  1854.     Almost  pure  white. 
Alice  Hamilton.    Nabonnand,  1904.    Bright  velvety 

crimson  reflexed  madder. 
Antoinette  Cuillerat.     Buatois,  1898.    Electric  white 

on  copper  base. 
Arethusa.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1903.     Yellow,  tinted 

apricot. 
Aurora      Schwartz,    1897.     Creamy  yellow,   tinted 

salmon  rose. 


132         EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Baronne  Piston  de  St.  Cyr.     Pale  flesh,  distinct  and 

attractive. 
Bebe*  Fleuri.     Dubreuil,  1907.     Varying  from  China 

rose  to  currant  red. 

Cardinal.      Welter,  1904.     Dark  red,  centre  yellow. 
Common  (old  Blush  Monthly).    Parsons,  1796.    Pale 

pink. 
Comtesse  du  Cayla.    Guillot,  1902.   Coppery-carmine, 

shaded  orange  and  yellow. 
Cora.      Vve.     Schwartz,  1899.     Clear  yellow,  tinted 

carmine. 
Cramoisi    Superieur.      Coquereau,    1832.      Velvety 

crimson,  large  clusters. 
Cramoisi  Superieur.     A  climbing  sport. 
Crimson   China   (Sanguinea).     Evans,    1810.     Dark 

crimson. 

Ducher.     Ducher,  1869.     Pure  white. 
Duke  of  York.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1894.     Variable 

from  white  to  red. 

Eugene  de  Beauharnais.    Fellemberg,  1838.     Ama- 
ranth. 
Fabvier.      Laffay.      Scarlet  crimson,    finest    of  its 

colour. 
Field  Marshall.     Wm.  Paul  &  Son.     Blood  crimson, 

shaded  amaranth. 
Frau    Syndica    Rceloffs.      Lambert,    1900.      Bright 

yellow,  shaded  copper  red. 
Irene  Watts.   P.  Guillot,  1896.    White,  tinted  salmon 

pink. 
Jean  Bach   Sisley.     Dubreuil,   1899.     Silvery  rose, 

outer  petals  salmon-rose,  veined  carmine. 
Le  Vesuve.     Sprunt,  1858.     Bright  red  and  pink. 
Madame  Eugene  Resal.     Guillot,  1894.     Nasturtium 

red  or  bright  red,  on  yellow  base. 
Madame  H.  Montefiore.     Bernaix,    1900.     Salmon 

yellow,  shaded  apricot  and  carmine. 


BOUEBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA     133 

Madame  Laure  Dupont.      Schwartz,    1907.      Vivid 

carmine,  reflexed  silver  rose. 
Madame  Laurette  Messimy.   GruillotJlls,lSB7.  China 

rose,  shaded  yellow. 
Martha.     P.  Lambert,  1906.     Copper  red,  flowers  in 

large  corymbs. 
Queen  Mab.    Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  1896.    Eosy  apricot, 

shaded  orange  and  rose. 
Eed  Pet.     Paul  &  Son,  1888.     Miniature  rose,  deep 

crimson. 
Souv.  d'Aimee  Terrel  des  Chenes.     Schwartz,  1897. 

Coppery  rose,  shaded  carmine. 
Unermiidliche.     Lambert,    1904.      Crimson,   shaded 

red,  always  in  bloom. 

DWARF  POLYANTHA  EOSES,  R.  Multiflora. 

Aennchen  Mueller.     J.    C.  Schmidt,    1907.     Large 

clusters,  brilliant  rose. 
Amelie-Suzanne  Morin.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1899. 

White,  yellow  centre. 
Anne-Marie  de  Montravel.     Rambaux,  1879.     Pure 

white,  immense  cluster. 

Aschenbrodel.    Lambert,  1903.    Peach,  centre  salmon. 
Bebe  Leroux.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1901.     White, 

centre  canary  yellow. 
Blanche  Eebatel.     Bernaix,  1889.     Bright  carmine, 

reverse  white. 
Canarienvogel.    Welter,  1904.    Golden  yellow,  flaked 

orange  and  rose. 
Cecile  Brunner.    Ducher,  1881.   Bright  rose,  yellowish 

centre. 
Clara  Pfitzer.      Soupert  et  Notting,    1889.      Light 

carmine. 
Clotilde  Soupert.    Soupert  et  Notting,  1890.    Pearly 

white,  rose  centre,  rather  large  flowers. 


i34         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

Dr.  Ricaud.    Corbceuf-Marsault,  1907.    Rosy  salmon, 

copper  base. 
Etoile   de   Mai.      Gamon,    1893.     Nankeen  yellow, 

rather  large. 
Etoile  d'Or.    Dubreuil,  1889.    Citron  yellow,  shaded 

sulphur. 
Eugenie  Lamesch.     Lambert,  1900.     Orange  yellow, 

passing  to  clear  yellow,  shaded  rose. 
Filius  Strassheim.     Soupert  et  Netting,  1893.     Rosy 

cream,  orange  base. 
Georges  Fernet.    Pernet-Ducher,  1888.   Rather  large, 

bright  rose,  shaded  yellow. 
Gloire  des  Polyanthas.     Guillot  fits,  1887.     Bright 

rose,  white  centre. 
Golden  Fairy.     Bennett,   1889.     Clear  buff,  yellow 

and  white. 
Hermine  Madele.    Soupert  et  Notting,  1888.    Cream, 

reflexed  yellow. 
Katherine    Ziemet.     Lambert,    1901.      Pure   white, 

very  fragrant. 
Kleiner  Alfred.    Lambert,  1904.     Ground  colour  red, 

suffused  ochre  yellow. 
Le  Bourguignon.     Buatois,  1901.     Electric  madder 

yellow. 
Leonie  Lamesch.     Lambert,    1900.     Bright  copper 

red,  golden  centre. 
Liliput.     Paul  &  Son,  1897.    Cerise  carmine,  flushed 

crimson. 
Little  Dot.    Bennett,  1889.     Soft  pink,  flaked  deeper 

on  outside  petals. 
Madame  E.  A.  Nolte.     Bernaix,  1892.     Buff  yellow, 

passing  to  rosy  white. 
Madame  N.  Levavasseur.   Levavasseur,  1904.    Bright 

carmine  red ;  the  dwarf  Crimson  Rambler. 
Madame  Zelia  Bourgeois.    Vilin,  1907.    Small  double 

white  flowers. 


BOURBON,  CHINA,  AND  POLYANTHA     135 

Ma  Fillette.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1898.    Peach  rose, 

yellow  ground. 

Ma  Petite  Andre'e.    CJiauvry,  1899.  Deep  carmine  red. 
Marie  Pa  vie*.     Alegatidre,  1889.     White,  rose  centre, 

large. 
Martha.     Lambert,  1906.     Strawberry  pink,  coppery 

buds. 
Maxime  Buatois.    Copper  yellow,  changing  to  carmine 

yellow. 
Mignonette.     Guillot,  1881.     Soft  rose,  changing  to 

white. 
Mosella.    Lambert  &  Reiter,  1896.    Yellowish  white, 

centre  rose. 
Mrs.  W.  H.  Cutbush.     Levavasseur,  1907.     A  pink 

Mme.  N.  Levavasseur. 
Paquerette.     Guillot  Jils,  1875.    Pure  white ;  flowers 

in  immense  panicles. 
Perle  d' Or.    Dubreuil,  1883.    Nankeen  yellow,  orange 

centre. 
Perle  des  Rouges.    Dubreuil,  1896.    Velvety  crimson, 

reflexes  bright  cerise. 
Petit  Constant.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1900.     Deep 

nasturtium  red. 
Petite   L^onie.      Soupert   et  Notting,  1893.     Rosy 

white,  carmine  centre. 
Philipine  Lambert.     Lambert,  1903.     Silvery  pink, 

centre  deep  flesh. 
Primula.     Soupert  et  Notting,  1901.     Bright  China 

rose,  centre  snow  white. 
Rosalind.     Paul  &  Son,  1907.     Bright  pink,  with 

deeper  buds. 

Rosel  Dach.     1907.     Bright  cherry  rose. 
Schneewittchen.      Lambert,    1901.      Creamy   white, 

passing  to  snow  white. 
Schneekopf.     Lambert,  1903.     Snow  white,  in  large 

clusters. 


CHAPTER  X 

ROSE   PESTS 

THE  enemies  of  the  rose  are  many.  They  are  of 
two  classes;  the  insect  foes,  and  diseases  caused  by 
Fungi.  And  their  prevention  and  destruction  are 
tasks,  as  every  rose-grower  knows  only  too  well,  which 
call  for  ceaseless  vigilance  and  constant  work,  more 
especially  in  the  early  months  of  the  season.  For 
if  remedies  are  applied  in  good  time,  the  pests  of 
both  kinds  give  comparatively  little  trouble  after 
May  and  June  until  the  early  autumn,  when  a  fresh 
crop  of  both  appears. 

No  such  powerful  weapon  has  ever  before  been  put 
in  the  hand  of  the  rose-grower,  as  the  remarkable 
handbook  on  the  Enemies  of  the  Rose,  published  this 
spring  (1908)  by  the  National  Rose  Society.  For 
here  the  veriest  tyro  can  recognize  the  diseases  which 
puzzle  him  and  the  insects  which  drive  him  to 
despair  in  all  stages  of  their  mischievous  existence, 
figured  in  exquisitely  drawn  and  coloured  plates ; 
while  in  the  terse  and  admirable  letter-press  he  is 
told  how  to  combat  their  destructive  ways.  This 

little  book  can  be  obtained  by  non-members  of  the 

136 


ROSE  PESTS  137 

Society  for  2s.  6d.,  through  any  member;  and  it 
ought  to  find  a  place  on  the  shelf  of  every  rose 
lover. 

Mildew,  of  all  Fungoid  diseases,  is  the  worst  we 
have  to  contend  with.  Some  roses,  such  as  the  lovely 
H.  T.  Killarney,  the  Crimson  Rambler,  the  H.  P. 
Margaret  DicJcson,  and  others,  are  specially  subject 
to  this  pest;  and  unless  measures  are  taken  against 
it  when  the  very  first  sign  appears,  it  quickly  spreads 
to  other  roses.  Two  seasons  ago  a  plant  of  Margaret 
Dickson  had  it  badly  in  my  garden,  and  infected 
its  neighbour,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  to  an  alarming 
extent. 

This  odious  disease,  though  more  or  less  always 
present  in  the  garden,  appears  generally  in  marked 
strength  twice  in  the  season — first  in  spring,  when 
the  foliage  is  just  fully  developed,  and  secondly 
after  the  midsummer  shoots  are  grown. 

It  must  be  attacked  early  before  it  gets  any  hold, 
in  fact,  before  it  actually  shows,  if  we  have  reason  to 
suspect  its  presence.  Flowers  of  Sulphur  is  the 
most  usual  and  effective  preventive.  It  is  blown 
over  the  plants  with  bellows  made  specially  for  the 
purpose.  Floating  like  a  fine  cloud  all  over  the 
garden  it  settles  on  every  part  of  the  plant.  The 
early  morning  before  the  dew  is  gone  is  the  time  to 
apply  it,  as  the  evaporation  of  the  dew  has  some 
subtle  effect  on  the  sulphur  which  greatly  increases 


1 38         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

its  efficacy.  Rev.  F.  Page-Roberts  strongly  recom- 
mends Black  Sulphur  instead  of  the  ordinary  yellow, 
used  with  one  of  the  "  Ideal "  Powder  Bellows,  made 
by  W.  Wood  &  Son,  Wood  Green. 

Another  preventive,  which  is  advised  in  the 
National  Rose  Society's  handbook  as  extremely 
efficacious,  is  syringing  with  Potassium  Sulphide, 
Liver  of  Sulphur — half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  The  handbook  advises  adding  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  liquid  glue,  or  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  every 
gallon  of  water,  as  this  causes  the  solution  to  adhere 
better  to  the  foliage.  If  thoroughly  and  carefully 
applied  with  a  very  fine  syringe,  such  as  the  Abol 
Syringe,  using  the  bend  attached  to  get  at  the  under- 
side of  the  leaves  where  the  fungus  first  appears,  this 
wash  acts  rapidly  upon  the  pests. 

Mo-Effic,  a  new  preparation,  has  been  highly 
recommended  in  the  last  two  years.  I  have  not 
tested  it  myself.  But  Mr.  Mawley  considers  it  most 
successful. 

Black  Spot  is  another  troublesome  pest.  It  attacks 
the  foliage  alone,  and  not  only  spoils  the  appearance 
of  the  leaves,  but  so  injures  them  that  they  fall  off 
prematurely.  The  disease  can  be  best  checked  by 
spraying  with  the  Liver  of  Sulphur  wash,  beginning 
early  in  the  spring  and  going  on  at  intervals. 

Rose  Rust  and  Rose  Leaf  Scorch  may  also  be 

combated  with  Liver  of  Sulphur  wash. 

But  in  all  these  three  last  diseases,  it  is  a  matter 


KOSE  PESTS  139 

of  the  greatest  importance  to  collect  the  badly  diseased 
leaves  on  the  plant,  and  especially  to  pick  up  every 
one  lying  on  the  ground,  and  to  see  that  they  are  burnt 
at  once  and  not  thrown  on  the  rubbish  heap,  where 
they  will  only  infect  the  soil. 

Sooty  Mould,  the  unsightly  black  stuff  which 
often  covers  the  foliage,  is  a  parasitic  fungus  not  upon 
the  leaf  itself  but  upon  the  "  honey  dew  "  deposited 
by  Green  Fly.  If  therefore  the  honey  dew  is  kept  off 
by  destroying  the  Aphides  which  secrete  it,  Sooty 
Mould  will  not  appear. 

INSECT  PESTS. 
Green  Fly,  or  Rose  Aphis,  is  alas!  too  well 

known  in  every  garden  to  need  much  description. 
But  the  reason  why  it  is  so  difficult  sometimes  to 
get  rid  of  this  pest  is  not  so  commonly  known.  The 
Aphides  breathe  through  pores  at  the  sides  of  their 
bodies.  And  in  order  to  kill  them,  some  substance 
must  be  used  which  will  close  these  pores.  Therefore 
syringing  with  water  or  any  clear  liquid  is  absolutely 
useless ;  for  if  a  few  Green  Fly  are  knocked  off  one 
shoot  they  will  only  settle  on  some  other.  We  often 
hear  people  say  after  a  thunderstorm,  "  This  will 
clean  the  roses  and  wash  off  the  Green  Fly  nicely." 
Far  from  it.  They  only  increase  the  faster ;  while 
the  caterpillars  rejoice,  and  flaunt  themselves  openly 
on  every  bush.  Then  in  despair  some  one  uses 


140         EOSES  AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

paraffin  or  some  violently  caustic  wash  for  spraying 
the  Green  Fly,  and  destroys  his  roses  thereby. 

Nature  has  mercifully  provided  some  enemies  to 
prey  on  the  Green  Fly — and  these  help  in  some  small 
degree  to  keep  the  pest  down.  The  chief  of  these 
is  the  Ladybird,  which  both  in  its  adult  and  in  its 
larval  state  devours  them  ceaselessly.  The  pretty 
green  Lace-wing  Fly  or  Aphis  Lion  is  also  useful,  as 
its  larvae  are  provided  with  "  large  sickle-shaped  jaws 
for  picking  the  Green  Fly  off  the  plants." 

The  Hover  Fly — which  looks  like  a  small,  slim 
two-winged  bee  or  wasp — lays  its  eggs  in  the  thick 
of  a  mass  of  Green  Fly,  and  its  green  and  grey  leech- 
like  maggots  feed  upon  them.  And  the  Ichneumon 
and  Chalcid  Flies  lay  their  eggs  in  the  bodies  of  the 
Aphides  and  their  maggots  feed  on  them  from  within. 

But  all  these  are  of  comparatively  little  help  to 
the  unhappy  rosarian,  who  must  therefore  devise 
unnatural  means  to  clear  his  plants. 

As  far  as  I  know,  with  the  exception  of  an  Aphis 
brush — a  useful  invention,  but  one  which  needs  very 
gentle  handling — there  are  only  two  safe  remedies 
for  this  universal  plague.  The  usual  one  is  a  wash 
of  soft-soap  and  quassia,  in  these  proportions — 

Best  soft-soap          .         .         .       1  Ib. 
Quassia  chips  2j  Ib. 

Water  .         .         .         .25  gallons. 

Even  this  wash,  excellent  as  it  is,  will  sometimes 


EOSE  PESTS  141 

fail  to  get  rid  of  the  scourge  in  a  bad  year.  But 
I  have  found  "Abol,  White's  Superior,"  a  never- 
failing  remedy.  It  is  also  much  easier  to  use,  as 
one  only  has  to  mix  it  with  cold  water  according  to 
the  directions  on  each  can,  and  it  is  ready  in  a 
minute. 

If  either  of  these  remedies  are  used  the  moment 
the  Green  Fly  appears,  and  the  dose  repeated  a  couple 
of  days  later  in  order  to  kill  any  that  may  have 
escaped  the  first  spraying,  we  have  very  little  more 
trouble  until  the  second  crop  of  Green  Fly  appears  in 
September.  It  is  well  to  syringe  the  plants  thoroughly 
with  pure  water  a  few  days  after  the  second  dose 
of  either  of  these  washes,  as  this  knocks  off  the 
dead  Aphides,  and  leaves  the  foliage  clean  and 
sweet. 

Although  paraffin  in  various  forms  is  often  recom- 
mended, let  me  urge  upon  my  readers  that  it  is  a 
most  dangerous  substance  to  use  upon  the  rose — a 
naturally  delicate  plant — as  any  remedy  of  a  caustic 
nature  is  sure  to  do  it  far  more  harm  than  good. 

Tobacco  wash  is  recommended  by  the  Continental 
rose-growers  for  Aphis,  1  part  of  tobacco-juice  to 
15  parts  of  water.  If  a  little  soft-soap  is  added  it 
makes  a  better  wash.  This  is  also  a  good  wash  for 

Cuckoo  Spit  or  Frog-Fly.— This  frothy  sub- 
stance if  washed  off  will  be  found  to  contain  a  yellow 
creature,  often  closely  wedged  into  the  angle  of  leaf 
and  shoot,  or  at  the  base  of  a  flower  bud.  This  is 


142         EOSES  AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

a  "  nyinph  "  or  young  Frog-Fly — a  most  destructive 
insect — and  unless  removed  it  will  so  quickly  suck 
the  sap  of  the  leaf  and  bud  that  it  dies  and  falls  off. 

To  get  rid  of  them  requires  patience.  We  must 
either  hand-pick  the  roses — or  if  we  spray  with  the 
tobacco  wash  it  is  necessary  to  syringe  the  plant  with 
plain  water  first,  using  some  force,  to  wash  off  the 
white  froth — and  then  spray  with  the  tobacco  wash 
to  kill  the  "nymph." 

This  leads  us  to  the  more  active  and  the  worst  of 
all  the  pests  we  have  to  fight  against. 

BEETLES,  BEES,  FLIES,  AND  MOTHS, 

which  either  in  their  adult  form  or  as  maggots  and 
caterpillars  prey  upon  the  rose. 

Four  Beetles  are  among  the  enemies  of  the  rose. 

The  beautiful  green  Rose  Beetle  or  Rose  Chafer 

does  harm  in  both  stages.  As  a  grub  it  feeds  under- 
ground on  the  roots ;  and  as  a  beetle  eats  the  foliage 
and  the  petals  and  anthers  of  the  flowers.  I  find  it 
is  particularly  fond  of  the  delicate  blossoms  of  the 
Yellow  Persian  Briar. 

The  Cock  Chafer  also  eats  the  foliage,  and  its 
large  white  grubs  devour  the  roots  of  the  roses  to 
such  an  extent  that  they  often  kill  the  plant.  As  the 
grubs  remain  for  three  years  in  the  ground  the 
damage  they  can  do  is  incalculable ;  and  they  attack 
other  plants  besides  roses.  Among  the  roots  of  a 
herbaceous  Spiraea  I  lifted  this  last  winter,  I  caught 


ROSE   PESTS  143 

forty  of  these  grubs,  and  found  they  had  so  honey- 
combed the  roots  that  the  plant  had  to  be  burnt. 

The  Summer  Chafer  and  Garden  Chafer  also 

attack  roses. 

Where  these  four  chafers  are  prevalent  there  is  no 
cure  but  hand-picking.  The  beetles  must  be  collected 
off  the  bushes ;  and  the  grubs  carefully  picked  out  of 
the  roots,  if  we  have  reason  to  think  they  are  present 
from  the  rose  appearing  unhealthy.  Or  they  may  be 
tempted  out  of  the  soil  by  placing  grass  turves 
upside  down  close  to  the  plants,  when  they  can 
be  picked  out  and  killed  with  a  little  boiling 
water. 

The  Rose  Leaf-CUtting  Bee  spoils  the  foliage  by 
cutting  semi-circular  pieces  out  of  the  leaves  to  line  its 
nest.  A  few  years  ago  I  found  that  a  fine  young 
plant  of  Tea  Rambler  was  so  relished  by  this  bee 
that  hardly  a  leaf  was  left  intact.  There  is  no  cure 
but  to  watch  the  bee  going  into  her  nest  and  there  to 
destroy  it  after  dusk. 

Of  all  pests  that  the  rose-grower  has  to  fight  against 
CATERPILLARS  AND  MAGGOTS 

are  the  very  worst.  For  there  is  no  real  remedy 
against  their  endless  and  varied  depredations  save 
hand-picking ;  or  as  some  one  has  tersely  put  it, 
"just  a  little  gentle  washing  with  non-caustic  sub- 
stances, and  just  a  lot  of  finger-and-thumb  work." 


144         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

This  is  tedious,  and  often  disgusting ;  but  it  is  the 
only  way. 

These  loathsome  pests  are  the  larvae  of  certain  flies 
and  many  kinds  of  moths. 

Sawflies,  the  little  black  and  shiny  flies  which 
infest  the  roses  in  May  and  June,  are  a  terrible  pest, 
as  the  eggs  they  lay  on  the  leaves  turn  quickly  into 
small,  green  larvae.  There  are  several  kinds  of  saw- 
flies,  and  their  destructive  methods  vary.  The  Leaf- 
rolling  Sawfly,  whose  larvae  roll  the  rose-leaves  like 
paper  spills,  has  become  a  serious  pest  among  garden 
roses  of  late  years,  and  if  these  rolls  are  carefully  un- 
folded the  little  green  maggot  will  be  found  in  one 
of  them.  It  must  be  caught  with  care,  as  it  is  very 
lively,  and  if  allowed  to  fall  to  the  ground  will  remain 
there,  and  produce  a  fresh  brood  in  the  next  year. 

The  Rose  SlllgWOrm  is  much  more  common, 
and  most  destructive,  eating  the  upper  surface  of  the 
leaves  and  leaving  the  lower  to  shrivel  up.  It  has 
two  broods  in  the  year. 

The  Rose  Emphytus  is  another  of  the  sawflies, 
and  one  of  the  worst.  Its  larva  eats  the  whole  leaf 
away,  beginning  at  the  mid  rib,  and  also  works  its  way 
into  a  cell  in  the  branches  till  the  next  spring,  thus 
killing  the  tender  growths  above.  This  is  the  green 
caterpillar  which  we  find  coiled  up  on  the  under-side 
of  the  rose-leaves,  or  in  early  morning  and  late  even- 
ing curled  round  the  base  of  a  rose-bud,  working  its 
way  through  the  calyx  into  the  heart  of  the  flower. 


KOBE   PESTS  145 

It  is  far  easier  to  catch,  as  it  is  somewhat  sluggish 
in  movement,  clean  and  hard  in  substance — and 
therefore  less  disgusting  to  touch  than  others  that 
squash  in  one's  fingers.  The  best  remedies  for  these 
pests  are  :  first,  prevention,  by  spraying  with  hellebore 
wash,  which  I  have  found  most  useful.  Second,  by 
careful  hand-picking  when  the  larvse  appear.  And 
third,  by  removing  the  surface  soil  in  which  the 
cocoons  are  buried,  and  all  dead  wood,  during  the 
winter. 

Hellebore  wash  is  made  in  the  following  pro- 
portion— 

1  oz.  fresh-ground  hellebore  powder. 

2  oz.  flour. 

3  gallons  of  water. 

Mix  the  hellebore  and  flour  with  a  little  water  till 
dissolved ;  then  stir  into  the  rest  of  the  water  and 
apply  with  a  fine  Abol  Syringe. 

Caterpillars  of  many  moths  are  among  the  most 
deadly  foes  of  the  rose.  Some  eat  the  foliage — such 
as  the  Buff  Tip  and  Vapourer  Moths ;  others  tunnel 
into  the  leaves.  But  the  worst  of  all  are  the  Tortrix 
Moths  or  Rose  Maggots,  whose  repulsive  grubs  eat  the 
unopened  blossoms  and  spin  the  delicate  young  leaves 
together,  destroying  the  whole  top  of  the  new  shoots. 
There  are  many  varieties  of  Tortrix,  which  are  all 
quite  small  moths,  and  their  caterpillars  or  "  Maggots  " 
are  the  most  unpleasant  and  destructive  of  all  we 


IO 


146         EOSES  AND   ROSE  GROWING 

have  to  deal  with.  The  worst  of  all  are  the  Red  and 
the  Brown  Rose  Maggots.  These  creatures  are  dirty 
red  or  brown,  with  black  heads ;  they  are  soft,  and 
grow  very  fat,  and  when  full  grown  are  half  an  inch 
long.  They  spin  the  leaves  together  at  the  top  of 
the  tender  young  flowering  shoots,  often  bending  the 
top  down ;  and  not  only  eat  the  leaves  in  the  midst 
of  this  filthy  fortress,  but  eat  their  way  into  the  buds 
and  destroy  them. 

Other  Tortrix  Moths  have  green  and  yellow-green 
maggots.  The  worst  is  the  Green  Rose  Maggot — 
bluish-green  with  a  black  head.  It  also  spins  the 
leaves  together,  and  grows  nearly  as  large  as  the  brown. 
It  is  extremely  active,  and  very  soft  and  slimy. 

These  all  turn  to  pupso  among  the  leaves  instead 
of  in  the  soil ;  and  any  left  in  the  foliage  must  be 
picked  out  and  burnt.  If  we  wait  until  the  shoots 
and  buds  are  eaten  and  the  foliage  spoilt — nay,  till 
often  the  whole  of  our  early  flowers  are  ruined — the 
only  remedy  is  to  pinch  the  leaves  which  conceal  the 
maggot,  if  we  have  courage  to  do  so,  or  to  hand-pick 
every  one  we  see.  But  happily  a  way  exists  of  pre- 
venting these  loathsome  pests  from  destroying  our 
roses.  And  this  is  to  spray  the  plants  from  the  middle 
of  April  to  early  in  May  with  ar senate  of  lead.1 
This  should  be  done  twice,  and  will  prevent  many 
other  caterpillars  from  feeding  on  the  foliage. 

The  Vapourer  Moth,  the  little  golden  brown 
1  p.  149. 


EOSE  PESTS  147 

moth  with  a  tiny  white  crescent  on  each  wing,  is 
unfortunately  common  everywhere,  in  town  as  well 
as  country ;  and  its  caterpillars  are  as  destructive  as 
they  are  beautiful.  These  caterpillars  are  found  in 
great  masses  upon  the  hawthorn  and  fruit  trees,  and 
attack  the  rose  as  well.  They  are  handsome,  hairy 
creatures,  spotted  thickly  with  bright  pink-red  tuber- 
cles, with  four  erect  tufts  of  yellow  hairs  on  the  back, 
and  five  longer  tufts  of  darker  hairs,  two  pointing  for- 
wards, one  backwards  over  the  tail,  and  two  at  the 
sides. 

If  there  are  too  many  to  be  hand-picked  the  bushes 
must  be  sprayed  with  arsenate  of  lead. 

The  Buff  Tip  Moth  does  most  harm  in  the 
autumn,  when  its  caterpillars,  yellow  and  green,  with 
longitudinal  black  lines  divided  by  yellow  bands, 
appear  in  colonies,  feeding  upon  the  surface  of  the 
leaves.  They  should  be  picked  off  at  once,  before 
they  grow  large,  as  they  reach  a  length  of  two  inches 
when  full  grown,  and  disperse,  feeding  singly.  If 
very  plentiful,  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  will 
destroy  them. 

The  Winter  Moth,  which  is  such  a  serious  pest 
among  fruit  trees,  also  attacks  roses.  The  caterpillar 
is  hatched  very  early,  in  the  end  of  March  and  begin- 
ning of  April.  It  is  a  "  Looper,"  greyish  at  first  and 
turning  green  later,  and  nearly  an  inch  long  when 
full  grown. 

The  grease  bands   we  use  on  fruit  trees  to  catch 


148         KOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

the  wingless  female  as  she  creeps  up  in  the  autumn 
to  lay  her  eggs  on  the  bark,  would  be  difficult  to  use 
for  rose-bushes.  The  only  plan  therefore  is  to 
spray  very  early  in  the  season  with  arsenate  of  lead 
wash.1 

Another  "Looper"  found  early  on  the  roses  is  that 
of  the  Mottled  Umber  Moth.  It  is  brown  with 
yellowish  sides,  looks  almost  like  a  twig,  and  is  over 
an  inch  long.  It  must  be  hand-picked. 

The  Dagger  Moth's  caterpillar— a  long,  grey-black 
creature  with  a  yellow  line  along  the  back,  a  large 
black  hump  on  the  shoulder  and  a  small  one  at  the  tail, 
is  most  destructive  when  it  appears  in  late  summer  and 
early  autumn.  It  is  generally  found  singly  ;  but  one 
specimen  will  strip  a  whole  shoot  of  leaves,  leaving 
only  the  mid  rib.  Hand-picking  is  the  only  remedy. 
These  are  the  chief  of  the  pests  which  we  have  to 
fight  against.  And  if  we  desire  to  keep  our  roses  in 
health  and  beauty  we  must  remember  that  prevention 
is  better  than  cure,  and  begin  our  treatment  in  good 
time,  before  the  many  enemies  of  the  rose  get  too  firm 
a  hold. 

REMEDIES  FOR  ROSE  PESTS 

WASHES,   ETC. 

For  Aphis  or  Green  Fly. 

1.  Abol.      White's  Superior — instructions  with  each 
can. 

1  p.  149. 


EOSE  PESTS  149 

2.  Soft  soap  and  Quassia  Wash. 

Best  soft  soap       .         .  1  Ib. 

Quassia  chips  2  J  Ib. 

Water         .         .         .         .25  gallons. 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  boiling  (soft)  water.  Boil  the 
chips  or  simmer  for  twelve  hours,  adding  water  from 
time  to  time  to  cover  them.  Strain  off  the  liquid, 
mix  it  with  the  dissolved  soap,  stirring  them  together 
thoroughly,  then  add  the  water. 

3.  Tobacco  Wash — also  useful  for  Cuckoo  Spit,  Thrips 

and  Leaf-Hoppers. 

1  part  tobacco  juice. 

15  parts  water. 

Add  a  little  dissolved  soft  soap. 

4.  Hellebore  Wash  for  Sawflies. 

Fresh-ground  hellebore  .  1  oz. 
Flour  .  .  .  .  2  oz. 
Water  ....  3  gallons. 

Mix  the  flour  and  hellebore  powder  with  a  little 
water.  Then  add  the  rest  of  the  water.  It  must  be 
kept  stirred,  and  used  with  a  fine  spray.  Hellebore 
is  poison. 

5.  Arsenate  of  Lead  for  Caterpillars. 

This  is  a  poisonous  wash,  but  the  only  one  that 
can  be  used  without  hurting  the  roses.  It  is  made 


150         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

with  the  paste  known  as  Swift's  Arsenate  Paste,  mixed 
with  water. 

6.  Flowers  of  Sulphur  blown   over  the   plants   for 

Mildew. 

Liver  of  Sulphur  Wash  for  Mildew  and  other 
fungi,  and  for  Red  Spider. 

Liver  of  sulphur          .  1  oz. 

"Water         .         .         .         .10  gallons. 

Powdered  hellebore  may  be  dusted  over  the  bushes 
for  Sawflies,  but  the  hellebore  wash  is  best. 

All  these  washes  can  be  used  with  the  Abol  Syringe. 
And  in  large  gardens  Vermorel's  Knapsack  Sprayer  is 
almost  indispensable,  as  it  does  equally  well  for  roses 
and  fruit  trees. 


CHAPTER  XI 

HOW   TO   GROW   ROSES   FOR   EXHIBITION 

(By  the  EEV.  F.  PAGE-ROBERTS,  Vice-President  National  Rose 
Society,  F.R.H.S.) 

IN  writing  this  chapter  my  purpose  is  to  tell,  in 
a  few  clear  words,  the  way  to  grow  fine  roses,  whether 
they  be  for  exhibition  or  for  private  delight ;  for  the 
method  and  culture  are  identical,  if  the  blooms  are  to 
be  worth  looking  at. 

First,  then,  as  to  situation  and  soil.  If  possible, 
choose  a  position  for  the  beds  sheltered  from  strong 
winds,  yet  not  near  large  trees,  or  hedges ;  for  the 
roots  will  enter  the  beds  and  rob  them  of  moisture 
and  nutriment.  Buildings  and  walls  are  the  best 
shelters. 

Make  the  beds,  if  possible,  in  the  highest  part  of  the 
garden,  and  not  the  lowest ;  roses  like  an  open  situa- 
tion, though  they  need  shelter  from  strong  winds, 
and  shade,  if  possible,  from  the  midday  sun.  In  writ- 
ing these  notes  I  do  not  wish  to  say  anything  that 
will  discourage  any  one  from  trying  to  grow  exhibi- 
tion roses  ;  for  they  can  be  grown,  more  or  less  well, 


152         EOSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

in  almost  any  situation,  and  any  soil.  Those  who 
can  choose  both  are  to  be  envied. 

Then  as  to  soil;  some  varieties,  the  H.  Ps.,  will 
only  give  the  finest  blooms  in  heavy  loam ;  the  H. 
Teas  in  a  less  heavy ;  and  the  Teas,  the  most  beauti- 
ful, though  perhaps  not  so  popular  as  the  dark  H.  Ps., 
in  quite  light  sandy  soil.  So  the  grower  must  decide 
according  to  his  situation  and  soil  what  varieties  to 
grow,  remembering  that  the  Teas  are  liable  to  suffer 
from  severe  frost. 

I  make  my  beds  three  feet  deep  and  three  feet 
wide,1  allowing  for  two  rows  of  roses,  and  a  grass 
path  about  thirty  inches  wide  between  the  beds,  grass 
being  more  sightly  than  gravel,  and  pleasanter  to  walk 
on.  The  beds,  if  the  soil  is  heavy,  will  be  all  the 
better  for  being  raised  a  little  above  the  level  of  the 
paths ;  the  roots  do  not  like  stagnant  water.  The 
beds  should  be  prepared  in  the  autumn,  a  few  weeks 
before  the  end  of  October,  that  the  soil  may  settle. 
The  manure  should  be  below  the  roots,  not  touching 
them ;  the  roots  will  find  it,  and  it  is  better  for  them 
to  go  down,  than  to  come  to  the  surface  and  suffer  if 
the  season  be  dry.  A  good  sprinkling  of  bone  meal 
spread  over  the  top  soil  before  planting  (with  a  dust- 
ing of  basic  slag,  three  to  four  ounces  per  square  yard) 
will  be  all  that  is  necessary  at  this  time.  Covering 
the  beds  with  manure  in  the  winter  is  not  recom- 
mended ;  and  digging,  or  even  turning  it  in,  in  the 
1  See  Chapter  I,  «  Making  the  Beds." 


TO  GROW  ROSES  FOR  EXHIBITION       153 

spring,  is  not  advisable,  however  carefully  it  is  done, 
as  some  of  the  roots  must  suffer,  and,  besides,  manure 
does  not  protect  the  roots.  The  beds  should  never 
be  disturbed  more  than  the  depth  that  a  hoe  will  do 
it.  The  beds  for  H.  Ts.  and  Teas  should  be  prepared 
in  the  same  way.  Beds  wide  enough  for  two  rows 
are  more  easily  managed  than  wider  ones,  there  being 
no  need  to  tread  on  the  soil  when  attending  to  the 
plants,  and  they  can  be  more  easily  hoed. 

When  selecting  varieties,  consult  an  expert,  or 
better  still,  if  you  are  not  a  subscriber  to  the  N.  R.  S. 
(and  this  all  rosarians  should  be),  get  a  copy  of  the 
N.  R.  S.  official  catalogue  of  Roses,  which  can  be  ob- 
tained by  non-members  through  a  member,  price 
2s.  6d.  This  will  give  you  all  the  information  desired. 
A  list  of  good  roses  for  exhibition  is  given  at  the 
end  of  this  chapter.  It  is  advisable  to  order  the 
plaints  early,  as  nurserymen  execute  orders  in  the 
order  in  which  they  are  received,  and  planting  should 
be  done  during  the  end  of  October  and  November ; 
if  not  done  then  it  must  be  deferred  till  February  or 
March. 

The  distance  of  plants  from  each  other  depends  a 
good  deal  upon  the  varieties.  Strong  growers  should 
be  planted  wider  apart  than  small  growers  ;  one  foot 
apart  is  about  the  usual  distance  in  the  rows. 

There  are  some  varieties  like  A.  K.  Williams, 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  and  Horace  Vernet,  that  do  not 
transplant  well.  These  ought  to  be  budded,  and  not 


154         ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 

moved,  if  possible.  Dwarf-rooted  stocks  can  be  bought 
of  the  nurserymen  at  a  small  cost ;  and  the  Standard 
stocks,  the  best  for  Tea  roses,  can  be  usually  got  in 
the  neighbouring  hedges. 

Pruning.1 — The  object  of  pruning  is  to  give  in- 
creased vigour  to  the  plant,  and  to  keep  it  within 
bounds  ;  to  make,  if  possible,  a  new  plant  each  year, 
a  new  top  to  the  old  roots.  And  to  do  this,  severe 
pruning  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  harder  the 
pruning,  the  stronger  the  growth.  Each  variety 
should  be  pruned  according  to  its  growth.  If  very 
vigorous,  they  require  less  cutting  back  than  those 
of  moderate,  or  weakly  growth. 

H.  Ps.  will  be  pruned  harder  than  either  H.  Ts.  or 
Teas ;  the  latter,  on  account  of  frost,  will  sometimes 
do  with  little  pruning  beyond  cutting  out  all  dead 
and  weakly  shoots,  and  shortening  slightly  the  long 
straggling  ones.  In  all  cases  do  not  allow  the  centre 
of  the  plant  to  be  crowded.  The  H.  Ps.  as  a  rule, 
may  be  cut  down  to  two  or  three  eyes,  leaving  the 
very  vigorous  shoots  of  some  kinds  even  five  or  six 
eyes ;  but  all  weak  shoots  must  be  cut  down  to  the 
base  of  the  plant.  This  pruning  should  be  done  in 
March,  leaving  the  Teas  till  April.  If  in  pruning 
the  pith  be  found  to  be  dark  in  colour,  the  shoot 
must  be  cut  back  Sometimes  it  will  be  necessary  to 
cut  it  quite  away,  if  no  light-coloured  pith  can  be 
seen.  Then  a  certain  amount  of  pruning  or  thinning 
1  See  Chapter  II. 


TO  GROW  ROSES  FOR  EXHIBITION       155 

of  the  shoots  is  necessary  in  the  spring,  after  the 
roses  have  started  growing ;  three  to  six  shoots  only, 
according  to  the  variety,  should  be  left.  A  thinning 
again  in  autumn,  of  the  shoots  that  have  done  their 
work,  will  give  the  later  shoots  a  better  chance  of 
ripening. 

Manuring. — Farmyard  dung  is  the  best  of  all 
fertilisers,  and  this  should  be  used,  as  has  been 
pointed  out,1  when  the  beds  are  being  made,  so  that 
there  is  plenty  of  good  nutriment  below  the  roots. 
Nitrate  of  soda  and  Guano,  both  soluble,  may  be 
sprinkled  on  the  surface  alternately  once  a  week  after 
the  plants  have  begun  to  grow,  and  hoed  in.  Manure 
put  on  for  a  mulch  in  winter  does  little  or  no  good. 
The  very  best  and  only  mulch,  winter  and  summer, 
is  a  loose  soil  surface ;  and  for  this  the  hoe  must  be 
kept  at  work,  especially  after  rain  or  watering.  A 
good  liquid  manure  is  made  by  putting  a  barrowful 
of  fresh  cow  manure  into  a  large  barrel,  a  big  wine 
pipe  is  the  thing ;  add  soft  water  to  thin  it,  put  in 
a  bag  of  soot,  and  fill  up  with  rain-water.  After 
settling,  this  will  be  ready  for  use.  Liquid  manure 
must  not  be  given  when  the  soil  is  dry,  but  only 
after  rain  or  a  good  watering.  Soot  dusted  over  the 
beds  is  beneficial,  and  may  also  destroy  a  certain 
amount  of  Mildew.  The  drainage  from  the  farm- 
yard should  not  be  allowed  to  waste,  as  is  so  often 
the  case  ;  but  if  well  diluted  it  makes  a  good  liquid 
1  See  Chapter  I,  and  above,  p.  152. 


156         EOSES  AND   EOSE  GEOWING 

manure.  Do  not  apply  the  fertiliser  close  to  the 
stem,  but  distribute  over  the  whole  ground.  Ee- 
member  when  giving  liquid  manure  the  same  rule 
holds  good,  "  Strong  meat  for  men,  milk  for  babes." 

Strong  growing  varieties  will  stand  more  than  weak 
ones,  and  no  liquid  manure  should  be  given  to  newly 
planted  trees.  A  dressing  of  Basic  Slag  in  the  autumn 
is  recommended. 

Pests.1 — These  are  many,  and  the  remedies  are  few 
and  simple.  Caterpillars,  large  and  small,  must  be 
hunted  for  daily  and  killed  with  finger  and  thumb 
from  April  to  July,  however  unpleasant  the  process 
may  be,  or  the  most  promising  buds  will  be  spoiled. 
For  destroying  Aphis,  which  are  very  troublesome 
some  years,  a  solution  made  by  boiling  Quassia  chips 
in  water,  and  adding  soft  soap  when  cooling,  is  often 
used  ;  though  "  finger  and  thumb  "  drawn  gently  up 
the  stem  when  the  insect  is  first  seen,  puts  an  end  to 
those  on  the  shoot ;  and  finger  and  thumb  is  even 
recommended  for  destroying  Mildew  on  its  first 
appearance,  though  this  cannot  be  done  when  there 
is  a  bad  attack. 

Nothing  in  my  experience  equals  Flowers  of  Sulphur 
for  Mildew,  when  distributed  by  an  "  Ideal "  powder 
bellows.  This  should  be  done  quite  early  in  the 
morning,  when  there  is  a  promise  of  a  hot,  sunny  day. 
If  the  wind  is  not  too  strong,  the  Sulphur  will  float 
through  the  plants  like  a  cloud  of  smoke,  searching 
into  every  part.  This  should  be  repeated  once  a 
1  See  Chapter  X. 


TO  GKOW  ROSES  FOR  EXHIBITION       157 

week,  and  even  before  there  is  a  sign  of  Mildew  on 
the  leaves,  prevention  being  better  than  cure.  But  I 
know  no  remedy  that  will  quite  destroy  it. 

Exhibiting. — If  the  grower  wishes  to  exhibit  his 
flowers,  he  should  follow  the  instructions  here  given  ; 
and  I  would  also  advise  the  reading  of  the  late 
Rev.  A.  Foster  Melliar's  book  on  exhibiting,  and  the 
Rev.  J.  H.  Pemberton's — both  most  excellent  books — 
which  enter  more  fully  into  particulars  than  space 
allows  me  to  do. 

The  number  of  shoots  having  been  reduced,1  it  will 
soon  be  time  to  gradually  take  away  all  the  buds, 
except  the  centre  bud  and  one  other.  This  also 
must  be  taken  away,  as  soon  as  the  centre  bud  looks 
healthy  and  free  from  damage.  Very  strong  growers, 
like  Florence  Pemberton,  and  those  varieties  having 
a  great  number  of  petals,  will  do  better  if  the  buds 
are  not  much  thinned,  or  they  will  be  coarse. 

The  N.R.S.  definition  of  a  good  rose  is:  "The 
highest  type  of  bloom  is  one  which  has  form,  size, 
brightness,  substance,  and  good  foliage,  and  which  is 
at  the  time  of  judging  in  the  most  perfect  phase  of  its 
possible  beauty." 

It  will  be  necessary  in  the  case  of  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  to  select  the  bud,  which  should  be  about 
three-quarters  open,  two  days  before  the  show  (four 
or  even  five  days  for  Teas),  and  to  tie  up,  not  tightly, 
the  centre  of  the  flower  with  Berlin  wool,  leaving  the 

1  See  above. 


158          ROSES  AND   ROSE   GROWING 

outer  petals  free,  taking  care  that  it  is  not  wet  with 
rain,  or  even  dew.  Bend  the  shoot  down,  if  possible, 
and  cover  with  a  shade ;  some  clean  litter  spread  under 
dwarfs  on  the  ground  will  keep  the  flower  from  being 
splashed  by  heavy  rains.  Teas  are  improved  if  covered 
with  a  cone  of  butter  paper,  as  well  as  the  shade; 
and  some  may  be  cut  two  days  before  the  show,  and 
if  put  in  a  dry,  dark  cellar,  will  remain  in  good 
condition.  Mareclial  Niel  will  improve  in  colour  by 
being  kept  in  the  dark.  The  best  time  for  cutting  H.  Ps. 
is  from  four  to  seven  o'clock  the  evening  before  the 
show ;  they  will  lose  a  little  in  colour,  but  will  stand 
longer  than  if  cut  before  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
the  show.  Use  garden  scissors  in  preference  to  a 
knife.  When  getting  the  blooms,  cut  the  stem  five  or 
six  inches  long,  and  remove  the  lower  leaves,  which 
only  fill  up  the  tube  and  do  no  good  to  the  flower, 
and  do  not  add  to  its  appearance  in  the  box.  A 
receptacle  with  water  should  be  taken  round  when 
cutting,  and  the  flowers  put  in  immediately  and  never 
allowed  to  become  dry  (the  water  must  not  be  cold). 
The  name  should  be  attached  at  once. 

The  regulation  size  of  the  N.  R.  S.  for  rose  boxes  is 
"  4  inches  high  in  front  and  18  inches  wide,  and  of 
the  following  lengths  (all  outside  measurements). 
For  24  blooms,  3ft.  Gins,  long;  for  18  blooms, 
2  ft.  9  ins.  long ;  for  12  blooms,  2  ft.  long ;  for 
9  blooms,  1  ft.  6  ins.  long  ;  for  6  blooms,  1  ft.  long ; 
for  8  trebles,  3  ft.  6  ins.  long ;  for  6  trebles,  2  ft.  9  ins. 
long  ;  for  4  trebles,  2  ft.  long."  The  lid  should  have 


TO  GROW  ROSES  FOR  EXHIBITION       159 

a  depth  of  9  inches  to  allow  room  for  the  blooms. 
Boxes  are  supplied  at  a  moderate  price  by  John 
Pinches,  3  Crown  Buildings,  Crown  Street,  Camber- 
well,  who  also  supplies  tubes,  wire  holders,  and  shades; 
they  can  also  be  obtained  from  horticultural  firms. 
The  tray  of  the  box  should  be  covered  with  moss. 
When  the  roses  are  all  arranged  for  the  night,  give  a 
little  air  by  putting  a  prop  under  the  lid,  and  leave 
the  box  in  a  cool  place.  When  the  boxes  are  placed 
on  the  show  tables,  lift  the  lids  sufficiently  high  to 
get  at  the  flowers.  Each  tube  should  be  lifted  and 
the  rose  raised,  taking  care  that  the  stem  is  in 
the  water.  All  damaged  outer  petals  must  be  re- 
moved, and  the  flower  if  full  with  substance  in  it, 
may  have  the  wool  removed.  Assist  the  opening 
of  the  blooms  with  a  camel's  hair  brush.  A  gentle 
puff  with  the  mouth  at  the  centre  will  loosen  tightly 
packed  petals.  Care  must  be  taken  when  "dressing  "  a 
bloom,  not  to  alter  its  character  ;  for  this,  according  to 
N.  R.  S.,  "  shall  count  as  a  bad  bloom/'  The  ties  must 
not  be  removed  from  the  thin  ones  (those  with  few 
petals)  until  the  last  minute,  when  it  is  time  to 
remove  the  lids.  It  will  be  necessary  to  take  a  few 
extra  blooms  in  different  stages  of  growth,  to  replace 
any  in  the  box  that  have  expanded ;  for  a  rose 
showing  an  eye  gains  no  point.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  there  are  no  duplicates,  but  all  distinct  according 
to  "schedule."  Once  exhibit  at  an  important  show, 
and  many  lessons  will  be  learnt  which  can  only  be 
learnt  there  and  then. 


160 


ROSES  AND  ROSE  GROWING 


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INDEX 


A. 

Abol  syringe,  138,  148. 

Abol,  White's  Superior,  141,  148. 

Aphis.     See  Green  My. 

Aphis  Lion,  140. 

Arsenate  of  lead,  146-9. 

B. 

Beds,  depth,  6,  152. 

—  size  of,  5,  152. 
Bee,  leaf  cutting,  143. 
Beetles,  142-3. 
Black  spot,  138. 
Black  sulphur,  138. 
Budding,  27-30. 

C. 

Caterpillars,  143-8,  156. 
Chalcid  fly,  140. 
Cock  chafer,  142. 
Cuckoo  spit,  141-2. 
Cuttings,  30-34. 

—  under  glass,  32. 

—  open  ground,  33-4. 
Cutting  dead  blooms,  21. 

D. 

Drainage,  2-3,  152. 
Draughts,  danger  of,  1-2. 

E. 

"Enemies  of  the  Eose,"  136. 
Exhibiting,  157. 

—  arranging  at  the  show,  159. 

—  cutting  the  blooms,  158. 

—  disbudding,  157. 

—  rose  boxes,  158-9. 

—  rose  tubes,  159. 

—  shading,  158. 

II 


Exhibiting,  selecting  the  bud,  157. 

—  thinning  the  shoots,  154. 

—  tying  the  blooms,  157. 
Exhibition  roses — 

beds  for,  151-2. 

distance  of  plants,  153. 

manures,  152,  155. 

pruning,  154. 

selecting  varieties,  153. 

soil,  152. 

F. 

Flowers  of  sulphur,  137,  150,  156. 
Frog  fly.     See  Cuckoo  spit. 
Fungi,  136-9. 

G. 

Green  fly,  139-41. 

remedies  for,  148-9,  156. 

H. 

Heeling  in  roses,  9. 
Hellebore  wash,  145,  149. 
Hoeing,  importance  of,  14,  155. 
Hover  fly,  140. 

I. 

Ichneumon  fly,  140. 

"  Ideal"  powder  bellows,  138,  156. 


Labels,  13. 

Ladybirds,  140. 

Layering,  34-6. 

Liver  of  sulphur,  138,  150. 

M. 

Manures — 

—  Basic  slag,  7,  156. 


161 


162 


INDEX 


Manures,  farm  yard,  6-7,  155. 

—  Guano,  155. 

—  liquid,  155-6. 

—  Nitrate  of  soda,  155. 
Mildew,  137-141,  155-6. 

—  remedies  for,  137-8,  150,  156. 
Mo-Effic,  138. 

N. 

National  Rose  Society,  136,  153, 

157-8-9. 
Noisette,  Philippe,  68. 

P. 

Paraffin,  danger  of,  140-1. 
Planting,  10-14. 

—  dates  for,  7,  153. 

—  depth,  9-10. 

Potassium  sulphide.    See  Liver  of 

Sulphur. 
Position,  1,  151. 
Propagating,  27. 
Provins,  40. 
Pruning,  14-27. 

—  Banksia  roses,  26,  54. 

—  dates  for,  16. 

—  directions  for,  22-7. 

—  for  exhibition,  154. 

—  Fortune's  Yellow,  26. 

—  Noisettes,  20. 

—  object  of,  19,  154. 

—  Ramblers,  20. 

R. 

Raffia,  12,  30. 

Rivers,  Mr.  Thomas,  111. 

—  Amateur's  Rose  Guide,    35-6, 

72,  82,  112,  123. 
Rose,  Apothecary's,  40. 

—  Blush  tea-scented,  81. 

—  Camoens,  125. 

—  Caroline  Testoat,  97. 

—  Cherokee,  54,  63. 

—  Conrad  F.  Meyer,  46. 

—  Crimson  Perpetual,  111. 

—  Crimson  Rambler,  58. 

—  de  Meaux,  23,  37,  39. 

—  de  Provins,  39. 

—  Devoniensis,  82. 

—  Fortune's  Yellow,  20,  69-70. 


Rose,  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  114. 

—  General  Schablikine,  85. 

—  Gloire  de  Dijon,  82. 
Rosamenes,  112,  124. 

—  Jaune  Desprez,  69. 

—  La  France,  93. 

—  Lyon,  43. 

—  Mme.  Constant  Soupert,  85. 

—  Mme.  Segond  Weber,  95,  98. 

—  M.  Tillier,  84. 

—  Peace,  85,  99. 

—  Perpetual  Damask,  124. 

—  Reve  d'Or,  71. 

—  Souv.  d'un  Ami,  81. 

—  Yellow  China,  81. 
Rose-chafer,  143. 

—  Leaf  scorch,  138. 

—  Pests,  136-50,  156. 

remedies  for,  148-150,  156. 

—  roots,  care  of,  8-9. 

and  manure,  7,  10,  152. 


—  arrangements  in  colour,   114- 

16. 

—  Alba,  41,  48. 

—  Austrian  briars,  42,  49. 

—  Autumn    flowering     climbers, 

68-79. 

—  Ayrshire,  52,  62. 

—  Banksian,  53-4,  63. 

—  Bourbon,  123,  130. 

—  Boursault,  55,  63. 

—  Brunonis,  73. 

—  Cabbage  or  Provence,  38,  47. 

—  China,  126,  131. 

—  Damask,  41,  48. 

—  Dwarf  Polyantha,  128,  133. 

—  Evergreen,  53,  63. 

—  French  or  Gallica,  39-40,  48. 

—  Hungarian,  56,  64. 

—  Hybrid  China,  56-7,  64,  112. 

—  Hybrid  Perpetual,  111-122. 
climbing,  74,  76. 

—  Hybrid  Tea,  93-110. 
climbing,  76-9. 

—  Irish  single,  90,  110. 

—  Macartney,  73. 

—  Moss,  39,  47-8. 

—  Multiflora  or   Rambler,  57-9, 

65-6. 

—  Musk,  71-3. 


INDEX 


163 


Roses,  Noisette,  68-71,  74-5, 

—  Pernetiana,  42-3,  50. 

—  Prairie,  55,  64. 

—  Rugosa     or    Eamanas,     45-7, 

50-1. 

—  Scotch  briar,  45,  50. 

—  Sinica,  54,  63. 

—  Summer-flowering  dwarf,   36- 

51. 
climbing,  52-67. 

—  Sweet  briar,  44,  50. 
Penzance,  43-4,  50. 

—  Tea,  80-92. 
climbing,  70-9. 

—  Wichuraiana,  60-2,  66-7. 


Sawflies,  144-5. 

Secateurs,  9,  17. 

Shades  for  rose  blooms,  159. 

Shelter,  2,  151. 

Size  of  beds,  5,  152. 

Soil,  3-5,  152. 

Soot,  use  of,  155. 


Sooty  mould,  139. 
Standards,  116,  154. 

—  budding,  28. 

—  planting,  12. 

T. 

Tarred  twine,  12. 
Trenching,  6. 

U. 

Unpacking  new  roses,  8. 

W. 

Washes— 

—  Abol,  White's  Superior,  148. 

—  Arsenate  of  lead,  146-9. 

—  HeUebore,  145,  149. 

—  Liver  of  sulphur,  138,  150. 

—  Soft  soap  and  Quassia,  140, 149, 

156. 

-  Tobacco,  141-2,  149. 
Wire,  danger  of,  12-13. 


RICHARD  CLAY  &  SONS,  LIMITED, 

BREAD  STREET  HILL,  B.C.,  AND 

BUKQAY,  SUFFOK. 


H.  LANE  <S  SON, 

The    Nurseries, 

BERKHAMSTED, 

BEG    TO    OFFER 

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28  Ibs.,  6/-;  56  Ibs.,  11/-  ;    1  cwt.,  2O/-  ;   5  cwt.,  9O/-  ;    10 

cwt.,  170/-  ;  20  cwt.,  £16  -  10  -  O. 


ON  CARRIAGE  DRIVES,  ROADS,  PATHS,  Etc., 

BY  A  SINGLE  APPLICATION  OF 

"CLIMAX"    WEED    KILLER. 

The  use  of  which  dispenses  with  hoeing  and  weeding,  and 
keeps  the  surface  bright  and  firm.  It  does  not  burn,  stain  or 
smell  offensively.  Used  in  every  County  during  the  last  fifteen 
years  by  Municipal  Bodies,  surveyors,  estate  agents,  etc. 

One  gall,  makes  51  galls,  sufficient  for  160  to  200  square  yards. 
PRICES  (carriage  paid)  Drums  and  Casks  Free:  i-gall.  2/3;  1  gall. 
3/6  ;  5  galls.  15/-  ;  10  galls.  26/-;  20  galls.  5O/-;  40  galls.  90/-: 

Packed  in  air-tight  tins.  Mixes  readily  in  cold  water  without 
heat  or  fumes.  Equal  in  effectiveness  to  the  liquid.  Convenient 
to  store  and  handle,  it  will  keep  for  an  indefinite  period. 
Measure  to  make  small  quantities  enclosed  with  each  order. 

PRICES          No.  1  Tin  mqkes  25  galls,  to  dress  80  to  100  yards,  «/-  ;   2  tins  3/6  ;    12 
Carriage  Paid      tins  2O/-.      No.  2  Tin  makes  100  galls,  to  dress  320  to  400  square  yards, 
Tins  free.        6/6  ;   2  tins  12/6  ;  5   tins  28/-  ;  10  tins  55./-  ;  20  tins  1OO/-. 


LIQUID 

WEED 

KILLER. 

POWDER 

WEED 

KILLER. 


IREWORM 

WOODLICE 

TC.QUICKL 


BY 


ALPHOL 


9  WHICH  IN  ADDITION  TO  PROMO- 
TING THE  GROWTH  OF  PLANTS  WILL 
ALSO  DESTROY  EVERY  VARIETY 
OF  INSECT  INFESTING  THE  SOIL. 

It  is  a  dry  non-poisonous  powder  which  should  be  freely  dug 
into  the  soil  to  destroy  wireworm  and  other  larvae,  while  for 
Ants,  Slugs,  and  Woodlice,  a  light  sprinkling  on  the  surface 
is  sufficient.  When  making  up  potting  soil,  manure  or  leaf 
mould,  an  occasional  sprinkling  will  increase  the  manurial  value 
and  also  destroy  the  worms  and  other  insects.  By  use  of 
'AlPHOL,'  ground  which  previously  teemed  with  insect  life  will  grow  splendid  crops. 

CATS  WILL  NOT  SCRATCH   WHERE  ALPHOL    HAS  BEEN  USED. 

QUANTITY      On  medium  and  heavy  land  28  Ibs.  will  dress  250  square  yards, 

K  EQUIRED      or  5  cwt.  will  dress  an  acre;  on  light  gandy  land,  25%  more  will  be 

required;  for  compost  and  manure  heaps  7  to  14  Ibs.  to  each  ton. 

PRICES.  7  Ibs.  2/-;  14  Ibs.  3/-;  28 Ibs  5/-;  56  Ibs.  8/6;  lcwt.15/-;  5  cwt. 

CARRIAGE  PAID.    75/-;  10  cwt.  £7 ;  20  cwt.  £1 3  1O.    (Sample  Tin  1/3  post  free) 

NOTE.— <«H.H.^H:01L,»    18   ALSO   AN    EFFICIENT   MANURE. 


THE  BOUNDARY  CHEMICAL  Co.  Ltd.,  Cranmer  St.,  Liverpool. 

SEND  FOR  A  COPY  OF  "RELIABLE  GARDEN  HELPS." 


ROSES  ! 

Indispensable  to  all  lovers  of  a  garden  are  our 
ROSE  and  BULB  CATALOGUES,  containing 
100  unpublished  Illustrations. 

FULL  CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS  sent 
free  on  application  by 

QEMEN  &  BOURG, 


LUXEMBOURG, 

Grand    Duchy. 


The  Largest  Rose  Growers  and  Bulb  Importers  of  the  Continent. 
Orders  from  £1  sent  free  of  charge. 

p=  Our  products  are  Stronger,  Hardier  and  Cheaper 
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LONDON, 


MAKERS  OF  HIGH-CLASS  GARDEN  FURNITURE. 


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ROSES 


One  of  the  most  complete  Collections  on  the  Globe. 
First-class  Plants  Unsurpassed. 
Export  Trade  all  over  the  World. 
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All  best  New  Roses  of  British,  American  and  Continental 
raisers. 


SOUPERT  &  NOTTING 

LUXEMBOURG,    Grand     Duchy. 

Rose  Growers  by  Royal  Appointments.    Established  Half  a  Century. 

Illustrated    Catalogue    Gratis 

and   Post   Free    on    application. 


ROSE? 


All  Strong 

and 

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Plants. 


Collection    "C" 

Garden    Roses. 

The  finest  selection  of  25  Garden  Roses 
possible  in  dwarf  plants  for  15s,  (with  Acme 
Labels,  17s.  6d.),  carriage  and  packing  free 
for  cash  with  order.  Full  details  on  application- 
Send  for  Catalogue  No.  28,  giving  full  details,  and 
is  also  a  full  descriptive  list  of  Roses,  Fruits,  Orna- 
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Garden     Specialists, 


SOUTHWELL, 
NOTTS. 


•••!••••••••••••••••••• 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
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' 
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f*»U    1955  Bl 

18Nov'59lVIH 
REC'D  LD 
NOV  10  1959 


NOV    6  '63  -8PM 

REC'D  ID    OCT 


OCT    9  1970  4  § 


<  v*^C*  LJ* 

JAN15'BS-5PM 
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YCI08188 


